Tips for House and Potty Training of Dogs - Free Dog Training Tips to Make Your Dog Well-Mannered
For a good and healthy human and dog relationship, dog training is a must, as it is through the process of training that a dog can be taught the mannerisms it requires to have, to move around in society. But what is dog training and how is it useful for the dog? Here are some free dog training tips that give you an answer. Training dogs involves clicker training, marker training, reward training, collar and leash, positive reinforcement, dog whispering, obedience training for dogs, etc. Dogs are not perfect; well no one is, and they keep doing certain things that may not be acceptable, especially when they are moving around with humans, their masters. These behaviors include chewing, digging, jumping, begging, biting and barking unnecessarily. So, training dogs not to bite and training dogs not to bark is equally important. Here are some dog training tips for free, they will certainly help you change the behavior of your dog.
Free Tips for Dog Training The sole purpose of dog training is to make your dog well-mannered. Following are the tips that must be followed without fail during the training sessions for dogs:
At the initial stage, do not over burden the dog with many commands as they might become frustrating and confusing for their little brains. Always remember to respect the behavior of your dog and plan your training accordingly. Never give a command for the activity that the dog can avoid.
You must always praise the dog for his good behavior and performance and reward him immediately so that he can associate the reward and the behavior. Make use of dog treats for this. This acts as a booster for the dog to follow your instructions religiously. This practice should be followed as it helps develop an amicable relation between the dog trainer and the trainee dog.
During the process of training, never ever punish the dog. Always focus on praising the behavioral change in the pet.
Penalize the dog for his misbehavior. Keep in mind that penalizing and punishing are two different things. Penalty means forcing the dog to do the thing that he dislikes like leash jerk or ignoring him to make him realize his mistake. These free dog training tips will definitely help you train your dog in the way you want to.
Free Dog House Training Tips The house training is a must for a dog to make him used to the outdoors and indoors. Crate training is the basic method of training the dog. The pup must be kept in a crate for a short period in a day. If the pup wants to defecate, take him outdoors. Teach him to defecate either in a yard or in a sandbox, if you do not have a yard. You could even use these puppy potty training tips for that. Some dogs jump at their loved ones in over-excitement. It is all right with small dogs, but large dogs might injure themselves or the person they jump on. So, to get rid of this dog behavior ignore the dog instead of shouting and screaming at it. These tips on house training a puppy might prove useful. For the meal time, create a separate meal area for the dog. Make him understand the right time for meals and make sure you stick to that timing. Always remember, never overfeed the dog. The most enjoyable training is dog leash training for both the trainer as well as the dog, as it ensures a safe and enjoyable stroll with your pet. If you clearly understand how to train a dog, and follow these free dog training tips religiously, you will observe a gradual change in the behavior of your dog, a change for the better.
Free Dog Potty Training Tips Now we come to the potty training tips. Potty training dogs requires you to be patient and give your dog some time to learn. This training should be given at the puppy stage itself. For potty training older dogs, you need to understand its nature and behavior. The most important thing to be considered during this training is the 'in' and 'out' timings. Usually, they should be taken out after fifteen to twenty minutes of their meal. Use a potty if you plan to let the dog poop indoors. Again don't punish your dog too hard for pooping at the wrong place; and don't forget to reward him for its little acts of good behavior.
So, these are some of the essential free dog training tips that will help you give the basic training to your dog. So go ahead and make your dog a 'gentleman'. You can even get many free dog training tips online. With the use of dog training tools available today dog training can be made easy. But the most important thing about training a dog is you give it your time and treat it with affection and care. That's my dog training advice to you.
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With the exponential growth of the pet product industry, it can be hard to determine what resources are best for you and your pet. Dog training books are one of the many categories that can be overwhelming in terms of the amount of choices available. There are number of great books out there, but they are not all good matches for everyone. Here are some tips for finding the best dog training book for your situation.
How old is your dog?
One of the easiest ways to eliminate irrelevant products is by targeting books that cater to your dog's age. There are a plethora of books available for puppy training, but not nearly as many designed for adult dogs. It is important to distinguish the two since the age of your pet determines how you will approach the training process.
What are your goals?
Dog training is a very broad subject that can encompass a number of different things. House training, leash training, and obedience training are all sub-niches to the primary subject. Take a minute to consider what you want to accomplish in training your pet, and find a book the concentrates on these subjects.
How much experience do you have?
There are different levels of training techniques, ranging from beginner to advanced. Thus, you should consider your level of experience before shopping for a dog training book. If this is your first dog, than it is safe to assume that you have a lot to learn. Look for a book that caters towards beginners. A good beginner book walks you through the basics of training while gradually building on previous lessons. It should also be fairly comprehensive since it is likely that you will have questions on a wide range of topics.
How do you learn?
Some people can read a text description and have no problem executing the steps. Others may need the assistance of pictures or video to supplement the text information. Think about how you prefer to get your information. Ideally, you will find a resource that offers a mix of each format. This way you can reference a different source if you have trouble visualizing the instructions.
Finding the best dog training book is really a matter of preference. What works well for you may not be ideal for the next person. Take into account the relationship you have with your dog and consider the things you hope to accomplish. By spending a little extra time thinking about the needs of you and your pet you will be able to find a resource that suits you.
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Choosing the correct dog training collar can be difficult with so many choices out there. There are so many types you can choose from. You want to make sure you choose one that will be right for the type of hunting you do and type of dog you have. Kozydogs.com is a great place to find the right one for your hunting dog.
SportDog shock collars are one of the more popular types. Here are some of the SportDog Collars that are very good choices.
The SportDog Field Trainer - A very affordable remote training dog collar. it has a 400 yard range features a 2.8 oz receiver collar. Great for dogs over 30 pounds. You will find this shock collar works great for training in the field, or hunting with close working dogs. The transmitter and receiver are both waterproof. Low ongoing stimulation levels and gradual increases between levels are quite useful with sensitive dogs or breeds. You can customize this Shock dog collar to correspond with your training preference.
SportDog Stubborn Dog Field Trainer - An incredibly multipurpose dog training collar. It is an effective and inexpensive training collar with a 400 yard range featuring a 2.8 oz receiver shock collar. Great for dogs over 30 pounds or hunting breeds. This dog collar is one of the finest and is for the dog that is difficult to train. It is ideal for training in the field, or for hunting with your working dog. Waterproof transmitter and dog collar receiver. This dog training collar enables you to modify the transmitter to meet your training needs.
SportDog Wetland Hunter - This training collar is rugged, waterproof and submersible. Wetland Hunter shock collar has a high-output receiver with more than enough power for even the toughest wetland hunting environments.
SportDog Sport Hunter - training collar for dogs This rugged shock collar is versatile and exceptional in all environments. Transmitter and receiver are waterproof and submersible. The low ongoing stimulation levels are particularly helpful with sensitive dogs or breeds. It has a 3/4 mile range and a comfy feeling soft transmitter texture, this unit is a delight to handle. These SportDog dog collars from Kozydogs.com all have a variety of range levels and stimulation levels, you'll want to read all the specifications about the dog training collar you are interested in puchasing. Keep in mind a good hunting dog will be one that receives the right training that teaches him how to follow your commands.
About the Author
I have been a dog lover my whole life. I have always wanted the best for my dog. If you love your dog as much as I do then I understand why that special family member is so important to you. By selling quality dog products on my site at http://www.kozydogs.com and supplying valuable information to you about these products makes me feel great to be able help all dog lovers have the best for their dog too.
Dog Training Collar - puppy and adult dog
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Crate Training a Dog or Puppy Can Have Good Results
Crate training can be one of the best things you do for your new puppy early in his life. There is a misconception that this training method is somewhat cruel but nothing could be farther from the truth. There are many benefits to be had using a crate to train your dog and your four legged friend will be more then happy to be trained this way. It is also easier then many people think.
This can be one of the best methods of potty training a new puppy or even an older dog that has been hard to house break. It is well worth the effort to use this method because it can bring rather quick results.
The reason it works so well is simple. Dogs will naturally not soil the area they eat or sleep in and since they come to see their crate as home they will endeavor to keep it clean.
When you start crate training your dog you will have to keep track of the times when he needs to go outside. This will help you know when to use the crate and when it is time for him to go outside. You do not want to keep your dog locked up in his crate for extended periods of time, but instead use the crate for the desired purpose.
Very young puppies will make messes when you first start the training but punishing him would be counter productive. As your puppy gets older he will soon begin to understand what you want of him and his natural ability to keep his home clean will come into play.
When you first start crate training you need to get your dog used to his new home. Begin with short periods of time lasting no more then 10 to 15 minutes with the door shut. Build up to two hours as he gets more comfortable with the kennel. Place a favorite toy and soft blankets in the crate to make it more comfortable. When your dog is free to roam the house leave the door open and before long he will use as his sleeping and relaxing place.
Your dog may not like it at first with a lot of whining, barking, or just not wanting to go in. But crate training a dog or puppy takes a little patience, just like any other training program. Before long his crate will become a safe haven that you'll have a hard time keeping him out of.
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Wheaten Terriers are Naturally Playful and Versatile Dogs
Like most terriers, the Wheaten terriers, or simply called as Wheatens, were originally bred as hunters. Therefore, their physique naturally evolved as strong and healthy. Their hunting instincts have made them agile and alert as most terriers are. However, this breed is more stable and steady as compared to most terriers as they were used as by Irish farmers as all-purpose dogs.
Among the activities that molded their instincts and physical features were herding cattle and sheep, vermin terminators, hunting both in water and on land, and serving as watch dogs that deterred trespassers.
The following are some of the basic facts breeders would really love to know about Wheatens:
Category: Terrier
Living Environment: indoors (highly recommended); outdoors (fenced yard)
Coat: single coat, medium length, silky and soft, wavy Colors: born to have black coats but at the age of two, their coats lighten to achieve the color of wheat grains
Height: between 17 and 20 inches
Weight: between 30 and 45 pounds
Temperament:
Naturally,
• they rarely bark especially when it is unnecessary to do so • they immediately reflect the moods of their household or those around them. • their type requires a great deal of commitment and effort in training them so they should not be given to novice breeders and/or owners
If trained properly, they
• are generally happy and friendly • are easy-going, confident, and deeply dedicated to their family's security • can get along well with older children and other animals that have been raised with them or are living within the same household
Breeders should note of the following health issues:
• Flea allergies • Addison's disease • Heat stroke • PLN and PLE Care and Exercise:
• They require daily combing to prevent their wavy and thick coat from tangling. • They should undergo trimming by professionals at least four times each year. • Dry shampooing or even bathing should be done only when it is necessary. • Eyes and ears should be checked and cleaned on a regular basis. • They should be brought along with family activities such as play sessions, hiking, picnic, and even walking.
Origin/History:
The soft coated breed of terriers, shortly called as Wheatens, originated from Ireland. The date of their existence was obscure but many assumed that their breeds were one of the oldest among other Irish varieties. They were molded as herders, farm dogs, and hunters and terminators of vermin, like the Cairns of Scotland.
From Ireland, they were brought to the US in the year 1946. Slowly they gained popularity as pets and as entertainers. However, the extraordinary appeal of this breed to the Americans at present would not be possible if Patrick Blake did not save its lineage from extinction in1932. They were registered by the American Kennel Club in the year 1973. Though their types have hunter instincts, they can get along well with older children and other animals within the household through proper training and attention. Like most terriers, they easily develop close affinity with family members so they normally appoint themselves as watch or guard dogs.
For professional breeders, why not appoint them as well as your pet especially when you are looking for a playful yet reliable companion and guard dog? To this effect, you can say that what you own is one heck of a dog-a dog that can work and play as well!
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Training techniques to become the best cheer team?
I need help getting people from my highschool,(more guys) to train and become a great cheer team. It's exactly what our school needs. Any ideas to get girls and GUYS involved and what are some good training metohods?
Honestly i don't think people espically boys understand that is cheerleading is a sport and not only a sport but a diffucult one at that! You should make signs and have announcments made at that highschool! Have one week of pre tryouts to prove to all boys and girls. Make everyone come, make it like a competetion i bet all you boys and girl cant make it through one week without saying after all the work that it isnt a sport and they admit it they stay! Make them run! Jump stretch, cheer, stunt, and everything work them out hard! then there like wow im getting a great work out from this and stay on the team ! hope it works<3
Running & Training Techniques : How to Train to Run a 10-Mile to Half-Marathon Race
The busy city of New York is home to a lot of coffeehouses.
Coffee has become a very important part in the lives of people for quite a long time now. In a busy city like New York, coffeehouses, coffee restaurants and bars are eventually increasing. Many people from different walks of life drive up to these coffeehouses to satisfy their need for accessible and fast pace coffee services. Different food menus like sandwiches and other kinds of desserts are also offered.
Coffeehouses are small restaurants where coffee, other drinks and snacks are served. Waiters and waitresses and other staff are trained to observe excellent customer service. It has been the most popular venue for social interaction.
New York is one of the biggest and busiest states in the United States. It has many tourist attractions, shopping centers and business centers. It is a highly populated place swarmed with many people everyday. And because of this, almost any restaurant is booming in this huge city.
And this is also the reason why there are many coffee houses you will see in New York. New Yorkers just love to cap their nights with a good cup of brewed or flavored coffees. There are many big franchises of coffee shops you will see here. But some people opt for the smaller cafes with dim lights and intimate ambiance for utmost relaxation.
One of these is Abraço. This is a coffeehouse, soup and sandwiches cuisine situated at 7th Street, New York. Recently, this coffee restaurant got the Best Cup of Coffee award featured in "The Breakfast Manifesto - The City's Best Morning Meals."
It is known to have fine Brazilian espresso. Breakfast and lunch are also offered here along with their delicious desserts.
The New Lex Coffee Shop is also famous in the city. It is one of the unbeatable New York's coffee shops with a spacious street and garage parking lot. It offers hot and cold coffee and a wide array of food items such as breakfast specials, deli sandwiches, salad platters and diet delights.
It also provides catering services for business parties and other occasions. This is more affordable and ideal to entertain clients. Service is fast and friendly. It is located at 155 E. 55th Street, between Lexington & 3rd Avenue.
Ella Cafe serves locally organic grown coffee ingredients from the local farmers who practice environmental friendly methods of farming. Bacon and Avocado and Tomato Omelet are just few of a variety of food menu selection along with their organic coffee and tea. It uses biodegradable materials for take-out. It is situated at Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, New York.
Grey Dog Coffee is one of the best in the area where coffee and meals are served in a comfy setting. Service is fast, and the staff is friendly and attentive. There is a wide selection of delicious and nutritious food and the price is reasonable as well. Enjoy live music daily as you sip your favorite coffee. Grey Dog Coffee is located at 33 Carmine Street, New York.
Morning Star Café serves your favorite coffee blend, and also caters breakfast, lunch and dinner 24 hours daily. It is conveniently located at 949 2nd Ave, New York.
Dog Training - How to train an attack dog. K9-1 Dog Training Style
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Australian Cattle Dogs showing the blue and red coat colours
Australian Cattle Dog puppies beginning to show color
Australian Cattle Dogs are sturdy, compact dogs that give the impression of agility and strength. They have a broad skull that flattens to a definite stop between the eyes, with muscular cheeks and a medium length, deep, powerful muzzle. The ears are pricked, small to medium in size and set wide apart, with a covering of hair on the inside. The eyes are oval and dark with an alert, keen expression. The neck and shoulders are strong and muscular; the forelegs are straight and parallel; and the feet round and strongly arched, with small toes and strong nails.
They should have well-conditioned, hard muscles, even when bred for companion or show purposes. Ideally, their appearance is symmetrical and balanced with no individual part of the dog being exaggerated. They should not look either delicate or cumbersome as either characteristic limits agility and endurance which is necessary for a working dog.
Size
Female Australian Cattle Dogs measure approximately 43 to 48 cm (15 to 17 inches) at the withers, and males measure about 46 to 51 cm (18 to 20 inches) at the withers. The dog should be 10% longer than tall, that is, the length of the body from breast bone to buttocks is greater than the height at the withers, as 10 is to 9. Australian Cattle Dogs in good condition weigh approximately 14 to 28 kg (30 to 35 pounds).
Coat and colour
Australian Cattle Dogs exhibit two accepted coat colours: red and blue, though the miscolours of chocolate and cream do occur. Blue dogs can be blue, blue mottled or blue speckled with or without black, tan or white markings. Red dogs are evenly speckled with solid red markings. Both colours are born white (save for any solid colored body or face markings) and the red or black hairs grow in as they mature. The distinctive adult colouration is the result of black or red hairs closely interspersed through a predominantly white coat. This is not a roan or merle colouration, but rather the result of the ticking gene. A number of breeds show ticking, which is the presence of color in the white areas with the flecks of color being the same as the basic color of the dog, though the effect depends on other genes that will modify the size, shape and density of the ticking.
In addition to the primary colouration, Australian Cattle Dogs also display some patches of solid or near-solid colour. In both red and blue dogs the most common markings are solid colour patches, or masks, over one or both eyes; a white tip to the tail; a solid spot at the base of the tail, and sometimes solid spots on the body, though these are not desirable in dogs bred for conformation shows. Blue dogs can have tan midway up the legs and extending up the front to breast and throat, with tan on jaws, and tan eyebrows. Both colour forms can have a white 'star' on the forehead called the 'Bentley Mark' after a legendary dog owned by Tom Bentley. Common miscolours in Australian Cattle Dogs include black hairs in a red-coated dog, including the extreme of a black saddle on a red dog; and extensive tan on the face and body on a blue dog, called creeping tan.
The mask is one of the most distinctive features of ACDs. This mask consists of a black patch over one or both eyes (for the blue coat colour) or a red patch over one or both eyes (for the red coat colour). Depending on whether one eye or both have a patch, these are called, respectively, single (or 'half') mask and double (or 'full') mask. Dogs without a mask are called plain-faced. Any of these are correct according to the breed standard, and the only limitation is the owner's preference. In conformation shows, even markings are preferred over uneven markings.
This Australian Cattle Dog's markings are an example of a double mask.
Australian Cattle Dogs have a double coat: the short, straight outer 'guard hairs' are protective in nature, keeping the elements from the dog's skin while the undercoat is short, fine and dense. They are not year round shedders but blow their coats once a year (twice in the case of intact females) and frequent brushing and several warm baths during this period are desirable. Otherwise they are 'wash and wear' dogs and even for the show ring require little more than a wipe down with a moist chamois cloth.
Tail
The breed standard of the Australian, American and Canadian Kennel clubs specify that Australian Cattle Dogs should have a natural, long, un-docked tail. It should be set moderately low, following the slope of the back. The tail at rest should hang in a slight curve, though an excited dog may carry its tail higher. The tail should feature a reasonable level of brush.
In the USA, tails are sometimes docked on working stock. They have never been docked in Australia as the tail serves useful purpose in increasing agility and the ability to turn quickly. Australian Cattle Dogs should not be confused with Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dogs, a square-bodied dog born with a naturally "bobbed" tail. The Stumpy Tail resembles the Australian Cattle Dog, but has a taller, leaner conformation. Where these dogs have a natural tail, it is long and thin, but most are born without tails.
Temperament
The typical alert expression of a Cattle Dog.
Like many working dogs, Australian Cattle Dogs have high energy levels and active minds. The breed ranks 10th in Stanley Coren's The Intelligence of Dogs, rated as one of the most intelligent dogs ranked by obedience command trainability. Cattle Dogs need plenty of exercise, companionship and a job to do, so non-working dogs need to participate in dog sports, learning tricks, or other activities that engage their body and mind.
When on home ground, Australian Cattle Dogs are happy, affectionate, and playful pets. However, they are reserved with strangers and naturally cautious in new situations. Their attitude to strangers makes them perfect guard dogs, when trained for this task, and family pets can be socialized to become accustomed to a variety of people from an early age. They are good with older, considerate children, but are known to herd people by nipping at their heels, particularly younger children who run and squeal. By the time puppies are weaned, they should have learned that the company of people is pleasurable, and that responding to cues from a person is rewarding, bringing a friendly voice, a pat, an interesting activity, or food. The bond that this breed can create with its owner is very strong and will leave the dog feeling very protective towards the owner; typically resulting in the dog's never being too far from the owner's side. Aggression in Australian Cattle Dogs is more likely to be directed at strangers than owners or dogs.
To relieve the urge to nip, the dogs can be encouraged to pick up and chew a toy or carry objects such as a ball or a basket, and they can be taught bite control from an early age. They are outhy dogs that will use their mouths to attract attention, or to occupy themselves. Any toy left with them needs to be extremely robust if it is to last.
While Australian Cattle Dogs generally work silently, they will bark in alarm or to attract attention. They have a distinctive intense, high-pitched bark which can be particularly irritating. Barking can be a sign of boredom or frustration; however research shows that pet dogs increase their vocalization when raised in a noisy environment.
Australian Cattle Dogs respond well to familiar dogs, however the establishing of a pecking order in a multi-dog household can result in a few scuffles. If a Cattle Dog is put in any situation where it feels threatened or challenged, it can respond with aggressiveness towards other dogs.
Health and lifespan
Lifespan
Cattle Dogs have more injuries than illnesses.
In a very small sample of 11 deceased dogs, Australian Cattle Dogs had a median longevity of 11.7 years (maximum 15.9 yrs). The median longevities of breeds of similar size are between 11 and 13 years. There is an anecdotal report of a Cattle Dog named Bluey, born in 1910 and living for 29.5 years, but the record is unverified. Lifespan varies from dog to dog, however Australian Cattle Dogs generally age well, with many members of the breed well and active at 12 or 14 years of age, and some maintaining their sight, hearing and even their teeth until their final days.
Common health problems
Australian Cattle Dogs carry recessive piebald alleles that produce white in the coat and skin and are linked to congenital hereditary deafness, though it is possible that there is a multi-gene cause for deafness in dogs with the piebald pigment genes.. Around 2.4% of ACDs in one study were found to be deaf in both ears and 14.5% were deaf in at least one ear.
The Australian Cattle Dog is one of the dog breeds affected by progressive retinal atrophy. They have the most common form, Progressive Rod/Cone Degeneration (PRCD), which causes the rods and cones in the retina of the eye to deteriorate later in life, and the dog becomes blind. PRCD is an autosomal recessive trait and a dog can be a carrier of the affected gene without developing the condition. The gene mutation has been mapped to canine chromosome 9 and the mutation can be identified, if present, through DNA testing. It is thought that the incidence of carrier dogs could be as high as 50%.
Hip dysplasia is not common in the breed, though it occurs sufficiently often for many breeders to test their breeding stock. They are known to have a number of inherited conditions, but most of these are not common. Based on a sample of 69 still-living dogs, the most common health issues noted by owners were musculoskeletal (spondylosis, elbow dysplasia, and arthritis) and reproductive (pyometra, infertility, and false pregnancy), and blindness. A study of dogs presenting at Veterinary Colleges in the USA and Canada over a thirty-year period described fractures, lameness and cruciate ligament tears as the most common conditions in the ACDs treated.
Activities
An Australian Cattle Dog clears a jump in an Agility competition.
Australian Cattle Dogs demand a high level of physical activity. Like many other herding dog breeds, they have active and fertile minds and if they are not given jobs to do they will find their own activities which might not please the owner. They will appreciate a walk around the neighbourhood, but they also need structured activities that engage and challenge them, and regular interaction with their owner. While individual dogs have their own personalities and abilities, as a breed Australian Cattle Dogs are suited to any activity that calls for athleticism, intelligence and endurance.
An Australian Cattle Dog competing in a herding test.
Kennel Club sponsored herding trials with a range of events suit the driving abilities of the Cattle Dog and other upright breeds, while sheepdog trials are more suited to the ye breeds such as the Border Collie and Kelpie. Australian Cattle Dogs were developed for their ability to encourage reluctant cattle to travel long distances, and may be the best breed in the world for this work. However, some working dog trainers have expressed concern that dogs bred for the show ring are increasingly too short in the legs and too stocky in the body to undertake the work for which they were originally bred. Non-competitive herding tests organised by kennel clubs assess a dog's instinct for and interest in herding, and cattle dogs also enjoy herding games, where rules such as 'stay', 'get it' and 'that'll do' are applied to fetching a ball or chasing a yard broom.
Among the most popular activities for Australian Cattle Dogs is dog agility. They are ideally suited for agility, since as herding dogs they are reactive to the handler's body language and willing to work accurately at a distance from the handler. Agility has been used by owners with dogs that have become bored with other forms of dog training, as a means of instilling confidence in their dogs, enhancing their performance in breed or obedience competition or making their dogs more biddable pets. Australian Cattle Dogs thrive on change and new experiences, and for this reason, many handlers find training them to be challenging.
Where training is made rewarding Australian Cattle Dogs can excel in obedience competition. They enjoy the challenges, such as retrieving a scented article, but their problem solving ability may lead them to find solutions to the problem at hand that are not necessarily rewarded by the obedience judges. Cattle Dogs have reportedly left the ring to share a spectator's hot dog, or retrieve a bag of donuts. Many find more success with rally obedience which offers more interaction with the owner and less repetition than traditional obedience trials.
Australian Cattle Dogs have been successful in a range of dog sports including weight pulling, flyball and schutzhund. They are particularly suited to activities that they can share with their owner such as canicross, disc dog, and skijoring or bikejoring. Hikers could not ask for a better companion, as the Australian Cattle Dog will enjoy the trails as much as its human companion and will not wander off; few of them are interested in hunting and they prefer to stay by their owner's side. Most ACDs also love the water and are excellent swimmers. They are not hyperactive dogs, and once they have had their exercise they are happy to lie at their owner's feet, or to rest in their beds or crates while keeping an ear and eye open for signs of pending activity. They are adaptable dogs that can live well under city or indoor conditions, if their exercise and companionship needs are met.
Australian Cattle Dogs can also be put to work in a number of ways; many are service dogs for people with a disability or are therapy dogs, some work for customs agencies in drug detection, some as police dogs, and others herd pest animals from geese to muskox for city or state agencies.
History
In Australia
Man on skis in the Snowy Mountains, NSW in 1930, patting a Cattle Dog. National LIbrary of Australia nla.pic-vn3989299
George Hall and his family arrived in the New South Wales Colony in 1802. By 1825, the Halls had established two cattle stations in the Upper Hunter Valley, and had begun a northward expansion into the Liverpool Plains, New England and Queensland. Getting his cattle to the Sydney markets presented a problem in that thousands of head of cattle had to be moved for thousands of kilometres along unfenced stock routes through sometimes rugged bush and mountain ranges. A note, in his own writing, records Thomas Hall's anger at losing 200 head in scrub.
A droving dog was desperately needed but the colonial working dogs are understood to have been of Old English Sheepdog type (commonly referred to as Smithfields, descendants of these dogs still exist) useful only over short distances and for yard work with domesticated cattle. Thomas Hall addressed the problem by importing several of the dogs used by drovers in Northumberland, his parents home county. At this time dogs were generally described by their job, regardless of whether they constituted a reed as it is currently understood. In the manner of the time, the Hall family historian, A. J. Howard, gave these blue mottled dogs a name: Northumberland Blue Merle Drovers Dog.
Thomas Hall crossed his Drovers Dogs with dingoes he had tamed and by 1840 was satisfied with his resultant breed. During the next thirty years, the Halls Heelers, as they became known, were used only by the Halls. Given that they were dependent on the dogs, which gave them an advantage over other cattle breeders, it is understandable that the dogs were not distributed beyond the Hall's properties. It was not until after Thomas Hall's death in 1870, when the properties went to auction with the stock on them that Halls Heelers became freely available.
By the 1890s, the dogs, known simply as Cattle Dogs, had attracted the attention of several Sydney dog breeders with interests in the show ring, of whom the Bagust family was the most influential. Robert Kaleski, of Moorebank, a young associate of Harry Bagust, wrote n 1893 when I got rid of my cross-bred cattle dogs and took up the blues, breeders of the latter had started breeding ... to fix the type. I drew up a standard for them on those lines. This first Breed standard for the Cattle Dog breed was published, with photographs, by the New South Wales Department of Agriculture in 1903.
Kaleski's Standard was taken up by breed clubs in Queensland and New South Wales and re-issued as their own, with local changes. His writings from the 1910s give an important insight into the early history of the breed. However dog breeder and author Noreen Clark has noted that his opinions are sometimes just that, and in his later writings he introduces some contradictory assertions, and some assumptions which are illogical in the light of modern science. Unfortunately some of these have persisted as ruths. For example he saw the red Cattle Dog as having more dingo in it than the blue colour form, and there is a persistent belief that reds are more vicious than blues. The most enduring of Kaleski's myths relate to Dalmatian and Kelpie infusions into the early Cattle Dog breed. These infusions are not referred to in Kaleski's writings until the 1920s and it seems likely that Kaleski sought to explain the Cattle Dog's mottled colouration and tan on legs by similarity to the Dalmatian and Kelpie, respectively. The genetics of coat colour, and the current understanding of hereditary characteristics, make the infusion of Dalmatian to increase the cattle dog's tolerance of horses an extremely unlikely event. There were relatively few motor vehicles in Australia at the beginning of the 20th century, so most dogs of any breed would have been accustomed to horses. The Kelpie breed was developed after the Cattle Dog type was described, so its infusion is also unlikely. It is possible that there was some infusion of Bull Terrier but there is no verifiable record of this, and the Cattle Dog has not had the Bull Terrier's instinct to bite and hold, which would have been an undesirable trait.
Through the 1890s, Cattle Dogs of Halls Heeler derivations were seen in the kennels of exhibiting Queensland dog breeders such as William Byrne of Booval, and these were a different population from those shown in New South Wales. When Royal Shows began again after World War II, Sydney exhibitors saw Little Logic offspring for the first time and these dogs and their sires' show record created a demand in New South Wales for Little Logic's lineage. By the end of the 1950s, there were few Australian Cattle Dogs whelped that were not descendants of Little Logic or his best known son, Logic Return. The success and popularity of these dogs led to the growth of the nickname ueensland Heeler.
The prominence of Little Logic and Logic Return in the pedigrees of modern Australian Cattle Dogs was perpetuated by Wooleston Kennels. For some twenty years, Wooleston supplied foundation and supplementary breeding stock to breeders in Australia, North America and Continental Europe. As a result, Wooleston Blue Jack is ancestral to most, if not all, Australian Cattle Dogs whelped since 1990 in any country.
In the USA
An American soldier with a Cattle Dog in Queensland during WWII, State Library of Queensland Collection
In the 1940s Dr. Alan McNiven, a Sydney veterinarian, introduced Dingo, Kelpie, German Shepherd, and Kangaroo Hound into his breeding program; however the Royal Agricultural Society Kennel Club would not register the cross breeds as Australian Cattle Dogs, even though McNiven argued they were true to conformation, colour and temperament. McNiven responded by putting ead papers on his pups and was consequently expelled from the RASKC and all of his dogs removed from the registry. Meanwhile, Greg Lougher, a Napa, California cattle rancher who met Alan McNiven while stationed in Australia during the War, had imported several adults and several litters from McNiven. After his de-registration McNiven continued to export his mproved dogs to the USA.
In the late 1950s a veterinarian in Santa Rosa, California, Jack Woolsey, was introduced to Lougher dogs. With his partners, he bought several dogs and started breeding them. The breeders advertised the dogs in Western Horsemen stating they were guaranteed to work and calling them Queensland Heelers. Woolsey imported several pure-bred Australian Cattle Dogs to add to his breeding program; Oaklea Blue Ace, Glen Iris Boomerang and several Glen Iris bitches were imported from Australia. The National Stock Dog Registry of Butler, Indiana, registered the breed, assigning American numbers without reference to Australian registrations.
Australian Cattle Dogs had been in the Miscellaneous classification at the American Kennel Club since the 1930s, but in order to get the breed full AKC Championship recognition, the AKC required that a National Breed Parent Club be organized for promotion and protection of the breed.
In 1967 Esther Ekman met Chris Smith-Risk at an AKC show, and the two fell into conversation about their Australian Cattle Dogs and the process of establishing a parent club for the breed. By 1969 the fledgling club had 12 members and formally applied to the AKC for instructions. One of the requirements was that the Club had to start keeping its own registry for the breed and that all dogs on the registry would have to be an extension of the Australian registry, tracing back to registered dogs in Australia.
The AKC Parent Club members began researching their dogs, including exchanging correspondence with McNiven, and discovered that few of them had dogs that could be traced back to dogs registered in Australia. The AKC took over the club registry in 1979 and the breed was fully recognized in Sept. 1980. The Australian Cattle Dog Club of America is still a vital force in the promotion of the breed and the maintenance of breed standards.
The National Stock Dog Registry continued to recognise Cattle Dogs without prerequisite links to Australian registered dogs, on the condition that any dog of unknown parentage that was presented for registry, would be registered as an "American Cattle Dog" and all others would still be registered as "Australian Cattle Dogs."
In the UK
The first registered Australian Cattle Dogs to arrive in the United Kingdom were two blue puppies, Lenthal Flinton and Lenthal Darlot, followed in 1980 by Aust Ch Landmaster Darling Red in whelp. Landmaster Darling Red was imported by John and Mary Holmes, and proved to be an outstanding brood bitch. Over the next few years further Cattle Dogs arrived in the UK from Holland, Kenya, Germany and Australia, however prior to relaxation of rules regarding artificial insemination, the UK gene pool was very limited. In 1985 an ACD Society was formed and officially recognised by the Kennel Club. Before this they had to compete in the category "Any Variety Not Separately Classified". ACDs were also competing successfully in Obedience and Working Trials in the UK during the 1980s.
Famous Dogs
In popular culture
Australian Cattle Dogs have been featured in a number of movies, appearing alongside Mel Gibson in Mad Max 2, Johnny Depp in Secret Window, Tom Berenger in Last of the Dogmen, Billy Connolly in The Man Who Sued God, and Alex O'Loughlin in Oyster Farmer. Australian Cattle Dogs also feature prominently in The Blob and Welcome to Woop Woop. In Babe, they are used by the men who attempt to steal sheep from Babe's owners, and they also are used to herd sheep by the main characters in Brokeback Mountain. Additionally, Australian Cattle Dogs appear in the three Fallout videogames; once as a companion to the Vault Dweller in the original Fallout and the Chosen One in Fallout 2, and once as companion to the Lone Wanderer in Fallout 3.
Celebrity owners
Celebrities who have owned an Australian Cattle Dog include Scott Cam, Ken Done, and Simmone Jade Mackinnon in Australia, and Matthew McConaughey, Steve Earle, George Strait, Owen Wilson, Kelly McGillis and Mark Harmon in the United States.
In the news
Sophie Tucker, an Australian Cattle Dog from Queensland made international headlines when, after falling from her family's yacht, she swam five kilometres through shark infested waters and lived on a deserted island for five months before being reunited with her owners. RSPCA vet Vicki Lomax believes Sophie Tucker's breed and her level of fitness had no doubt contributed to her survival, saying "Cattle dogs are probably the most suited type of dog to survive something like this, but it would have been a major ordeal for her."
Ben, an Australian cattle Dog from Adelaide, was the primary witness involved in gaining a conviction in the murder of his owners, Karen Molloy and Jeremy Torrens. When the major crime detectives declared themselves baffled, neighbours reported surprise that Ben, who was known to be very protective of the property, had not raised the alarm. Ben was missing, and when he was found days later, ten kilometres away, detectives told the media that he might hold the key to the mystery. His acceptance of the intruder led police to suspect Karen's son Dennis Molloy, and an investigation of the suspect's vehicle, clothes, and home uncovered around four hundred stray hairs (usually forensic scientists have fewer than four hairs to work with). Dennis Molloy had owned the car for only two weeks, and declared that he had not visited his mother's house in that time. However the hairs were identified as the distinctive multi-toned hairs of a cattle dog; there were individual black, white and tan hairs and hairs that were banded black/white and black/white/tan. The forensic investigation continued for some months and determined that the hairs on Dennis Molloy's car and sweatshirt were the result of a 'primary transfer' from Ben. With the suspect's denial, the absence of witnesses and the lack of crime-scene evidence, it was the distinctive hair of a cattle dog that ultimately linked Dennis Molloy to the crime.
Blue, an Australian Cattle Dog from Fort Meyers, Florida, stood guard beside Ruth Gay, his 83-year-old owner who had fallen and injured herself. As she lay beside a canal, Blue launched repeated attacks against an alligator, receiving around thirty lacerations consistent with alligator bites. When the rest of the family retured home at 10:00pm, Blue met the car and led them to where Ruth lay. Blue was awarded for his heroism, which was no surprise to those who know the breed. Tasmanian breeder Narelle Hammond-Robertson said "It wouldn't have mattered if the alligator had been an elephant, these dogs will protect their masters, win, lose or draw."
Another Blue, described in press reports as a Queensland Heeler, is credited by the Yavapai County, Arizona Sheriff's Office with keeping a little girl safe after she spent the overnight hours in 30-degree temperatures near Cordes Lakes, 36 miles east of Prescott. She was rescued with the dog on February 19, 2010. The ranger who located the girl and her dog said, "The dog which had protected the girl all night seemed to know help had arrived. You could see the dog's expression almost turn to a smile. It came right to the helicopter and jumped right in, no problems at all."
References
^ a b c d e "ANKC Breed Standard for the Australian Cattle Dog". Australian National Kennel Council website. Australian National Kennel Council. 14 Dec 2009. http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=132. Retrieved 20 January 2010.
^ a b c d e Holmes, John and Mary (1993). The Complete Australian Cattle Dog. New York: Simon and Schuster. ISBN 0-87605-014-3.
^ Ruvinsky, Anatoly; Jeff Sampson (2001). The genetics of the dog. Wallingford, UK: Cabi Publishing. ISBN 0-85199-520.
^ a b "Questions Frequently Asked About the Australian Cattle Dog". Australian Cattle Dogs Online. Katherine Buetow. 1 Jan 2009. http://www.cattledog.com/misc/faq.html. Retrieved 27 December 2009.
^ Hewson-Fruend, H J. Inheritance of coat colour in the Australian Cattle Dog and the Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog, in N R Clark, A Dog Called Blue. Write Light, Sydney, 2003.
^ Robertson, Narelle (1990). Australian Cattle Dogs. Neptune City NJ: TFH Publications. ISBN 0-7938-2808-2.
^ Lowell, Michele (1990). Your Purebred Puppy: A Buyers Guide. New York: Henry Holt. ISBN 0805018921.
^ a b c Lithgow, Scott (2001). Training and Working Dogs for Quiet Confident Control of Stock. Brisbane, Qld: University of Queensland Press. ISBN 0702223948.
^ Duffy, Deborah L., Yuying Hsu and James A. Serpell (December 2008). "Breed differences in canine aggression". Applied Animal Behaviour Science 114 (3-4): 44160. doi:10.1016/j.applanim.2008.04.006.
^ Dehasse, Joel (1994). "Emotional, and Social Development of the Young Dog". The Bulletin for Veterinary Clinical Ethology 2 (1-2): 6-29.
^ a b Kennel Club / British Small Animal Veterinary Association Scientific Committee. 2004. Purebred Dog Health Survey. Retrieved July 5, 2007
^ Dog Longevity Web Site, Weight and Longevity. Compiled by K. M. Cassidee. Retrieved 5 July 2007
^ AnAge entry for Canis familiaris AnAge Database. Human Ageing Genomic Resources. Retrieved July 17, 2007
^ a b c Beauchamp, Richard G. (1997). Australian Cattle Dogs. New York: Barron's Educational. ISBN 0-8120-9854-4.
^ Strain, George M (January 2004). ""Deafness prevalence and pigmentation and gender associations in dog breeds at risk"". The Veterinary Journal 167 (1): 23-32.
^ Strain, George M "Breed-Specific Deafness Prevalence In Dogs" Louisiana State University Retrieved December 28 2009
^ Petersen-Jones, Simon M. (2003). "Progressive Retinal Atrophy: An Overview". Proceedings of the 28th World Congress of the World Small Animal Veterinary Association. http://www.vin.com/proceedings/Proceedings.plx?CID=WSAVA2003&PID=6687&O=Generic. Retrieved 2009-12-12.
^ OptiGen (August 05 2005). "prcd-PRA Test for Australian Cattle Dogs and Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dogs". OptiGen website. Ithaca, New York: OptiGen. http://www.optigen.com/opt9_test_pra_acd.html. Retrieved 20 January 2010.
^ Sargan, D.R. inherited diseases in dogs: web-based information for canine inherited disease genetics. Mamm Genome. 2004 Jun;15(6): p. 503-6. Retrieved 2009-12-29
^ Dorn, C Richards "Canine Breed-Specific Risks of Frequently Diagnosed Diseases at Veterinary Teaching Hospitals" AKC Canine Health Foundation, 2002
^ American Kennel Club Getting Started in Herding Retrieved 2009-12-28
^ Simmons-Moake, Jane (1992). Agility Training. New York: Macmillan. ISBN 0-87605-402-5.
^ a b Coren, Stanley (1998). Why We Love the Dogs We Do. New York: The Free Press. ISBN 068485502X.
^ a b c d e f g h i j Clark, Noreen R. (2003). A Dog Called Blue. Wallacia, NSW: WrightLight. ISBN 0-9581934-3-6.
^ Kaleski, Robert (2005). Australian Barkers and Biters. Warwickshire, UK: Vintage Dog Books. ISBN 1-905124-75-9.
^ Walsh, G. P. (2006). "Kaleski, Robert Lucian Stanislaus (1877 - 1961)". Australian Dictionary of Biography Online. Australian Dictionary of Biography. http://www.adb.online.anu.edu.au/biogs/A090530b.htm. Retrieved 20 January 2010.
^ a b c d e f Ekman, Esther, an An American Kennel Club Registration Save A Herding Breed? AgriHelp Working/Herding Dogs Retrieved 2009-12-30
^ "Dogs in Australian Television". Australian TV. Fun Trivia. 14 Dec 2009. http://www.funtrivia.com/en/subtopics/Dogs-in-Australian-Television-212064.html. Retrieved 20 January 2010.
^ "Ken Done and Indiana". Petarazzi. James Morgan Photographic Consultancy. n.d.. http://www.morgan-photo.com/gallery/v/petarazzi/24_+KEN+DONE+.jpg.html. Retrieved 22 January 2010.
^ "Memoirs of a Superhero - Simmone Jade Mackinnon". Dogs Life. Universal Magazines. http://www.dogslife.com.au/dogs_life_articles?cid=9445&pid=2110323. Retrieved 20 January 2010.
^ Calligeros, Marissa (6 April 2009). "Canine castaway survives five months on island". The Age (Melbourne). http://www.theage.com.au/national/canine-castaway-survives-five-months-on-island-20090406-9u0v.html. Retrieved 24 January 2010.
^ Houck, Max M. (2004). Trace evidence analysis: more cases in mute witnesses. Burlington, MA: Elsevier. pp. 27-52. ISBN 0-12-356761-0.
^ "Dog Battles Gator to Save Woman, 85, Hurt in Fall". Miami Herald (Miami). 27 July 2001. http://dogsinthenews.com/issues/0107/articles/010730a.htm.
^ "Hero Blue just a typical cattle dog". AAP General News (Australia). 4 April 2002. http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1P1-51820168.html.
^ Jim Cross (19 February 2010). "Dog helps lost girl survive cold night". KTAR News. http://ktar.com/?nid=6&sid=1265209. Retrieved 20 February 2010.
Additional reading
Beauchamp, Richard G. Australian Cattle Dogs ISBN 0-8120-9854-4.
Buetow Katherine. The Australian Cattle Dog: An Owner's Guide to a Happy Healthy Pet ISBN 0-87605-446-7.
Christian, Kathy. The Australian Cattle Dog ISBN 0-944875-65-3.
Clark, Noreen R A Dog Called Blue ISBN 0-9581934-3-6
Edwards, Cheryl Ann Australian Cattle Dogs : Old Timers ISBN 0646208136.
Hamilton-Wilkes, Monty & David Cumming Kelpie and Cattle Dog: Australian dogs at work ISBN 0207144907
Holmes, John & Mary The Complete Australian Cattle Dog ISBN 0-87605-014-3.
Kaleski, Robert Australian Barkers and Biters ISBN 1-905124-75-9
Redhead, Connie The Good Looking Australian ISBN 0-7316-2220-0.
Robertson, Narelle Australian Cattle Dogs ISBN 0-7938-2808-2.
Schwartz, Charlotte Australian Cattle Dog: A Comprehensive Guide to Owning and Caring for Your Dog ISBN 159378368X
Shaffer, Mari Heeler Power: A guide to training the working Australian Cattle Dog ISBN 9998736102
External links
Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Australian Cattle Dog
Australian Cattle Dog Society of NSW Inc website: ACD Breed info, history, Photos, Breeders
Australian Cattle Dog website: Cattledog Breed FAQ, Photos, Breeders
Australian Cattle Dog Club of New Zealand website
Australian Cattle Dog Club of America website
Australian Cattle Dog Club of Canada website
Australian Cattle Dog Club of Switzerland website
CattleDog.com Centralized repository for all things "Cattledog"
v d e
Breeds of pastoral dog
Herding and droving dogs
Australian Cattle Dog Australian Kelpie Australian Shepherd Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog Basque Shepherd Dog Bearded Collie Beauceron Belgian Shepherd Dog (Groenendael) Belgian Shepherd Dog (Laekenois) Belgian Shepherd Dog (Malinois) Belgian Shepherd Dog (Tervuren) Bergamasco Berger Picard Bernese Mountain Dog Blue Lacy Border Collie Bouvier des Flandres Briard Canaan Dog Co da Serra de Aires Co Fila de So Miguel Catahoula Bulldog Catahoula Leopard Dog Catalan Sheepdog Collie (Rough) Collie (Smooth) Croatian Sheepdog Dutch Shepherd Dog English Shepherd German Shepherd Dog Greater Swiss Mountain Dog Icelandic Sheepdog Koolie Lancashire Heeler Lapponian Herder McNab Miniature Australian Shepherd Mudi New Zealand Huntaway Old English Sheepdog Polish Lowland Sheepdog Puli Pumi Pyrenean Shepherd Shetland Sheepdog Spanish Water Dog Tornjak Welsh Corgi (Cardigan) Welsh Corgi (Pembroke) Welsh Sheepdog White Shepherd Dog
Livestock guardian dogs
Akbash Dog Anatolian Shepherd Dog Bucovina Shepherd Dog Co de Castro Laboreiro Carpathian Shepherd Dog Caucasian Shepherd Dog Central Asian Shepherd Dog Estrela Mountain Dog Great Pyrenees Kangal Dog Karakachan Dog Karst Shepherd Komondor Kuvasz Leonberger Maremma Sheepdog Mioritic Polish Tatra Sheepdog Pyrenean Mastiff Rafeiro do Alentejo arplaninac Slovak Cuvac South Russian Ovcharka Spanish Mastiff Tibetan Mastiff
Categories: Dog breeds | Herding dogs | Animal breeds originating in Australia | Dog breeds originating in Australia About the Author
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Dog Training Tips Misconceptions of Walking a Dog.m
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] How to train dog to stay home alone?
When we want to leave the house my dog really wants to come when he cant. So we tell him to stay but he doesnt listen and he keeps jumping on us. Then when we go to open the door he runs out of the door and wont come back in. We tell him to come and he wont come back in. It takes about 10 minutes fo finally bring him back in. What to do to stop this and make him understand he's not coming?
Well, your dog must understand that he's not the center of your world because at the moment he thinks he is. Always make sure that you're not giving him attention when he WANTS it.. this is not to say dont give him attention at all, only give it to him when he's being good, that is sitting down quietly--- then offer him a game, a run around or a play or something. He must know that he gets it on your time, not whenever he wants it. When you come back home don't have such a high key entrence such as "HI DOGGY!!!" just ignore him. This WILL be hard, i do it with my dog and it breaks my heart to see him there wanting my attention, but it will eventually teach your dog that he wont get what he wants when he's asking for it. Do this when you leave the house to, when he's jumping at you try not to make a fuss but go about your daily routine of leaving the house. As for teaching him how to "stay" it requires persistance. Get a treat, make him sit and then say "STAY" in a firm and low voice and stick your hand out like a stop sign. Walk backwards and the second he tries to get up, push him back into the position. When you're happy that he has stayed long enough, give him the treat. Make it longer and longer each time, then when you're confident, apply this to when you're leaving the house. Say STAY in a low and firm voice and leave.... Once again, no "GOODBYE DOGGY! I'LL BE BACK, I LOVE YOU!" it wont hurt his feelings i assure you, dogs are very different to humans.
Little things aswell.. always walk through doors before him, especially your front door or gate. Use the stay technique if you end up teaching it, then walk through the door and once you get outside, call him to come and give him lots of praise when he does.
I hope i have been of help. A very good trainer taught this to me and my little puppy is an angel thanks to her. Your dog wont think you dont love him if you ignore him, trust me, there are so many chances to give him love.
Dog Training Video by Sean Nowicki
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does anybody know of any puppy obedience classes in the UK around doncaster, south yorkshire area. thanks
Try this website: http://www.obedienceuk.com/viewprofile.asp It has a directory of pet obedience classes in the UK. http://www.barkbusters.co.uk/dog-training-experts/east-midlands/nottingham <--- that website also claims to do some training things in the Doncaster area.
I have found this dog training centre: "Isle Dog Training" which is in Doncaster, tel no: 01427 872919 / 07986. I'm sure it will do puppy classes. This is their website: http://www.isledogtraining.com/9.html. I think it is your best bet of finding a puppy obedience class in Doncaster.
Dog Training Advice- The 1 Dog Training Mistake You Should Avoid
Greetings Puppy and Dog Lovers! This is Allan with some dog training advice and I thank you for being the one who is training your dog. If you are not the one training your dog you really should be. Why? Because it is so much more fun, exciting, effective and cheaper than dog training classes or professional trainers. Some people consider dog training to be lessons for the dog. What they do not realize is that it is lessons for them as well. As the owner you are also learning a lot about your pup.
Dog Training Advice- Common Dog Training Pitfall
Here is what happens: John Smith gets his new doberman and names her Candy. He wants to train her so he looks for training methods. He follows a guide that states they have the one training method that will train any breed of dog. This is good right? WRONG! Huge mistake. Not good dog training advice. There is a lot of misinformation being spread about a one magic bullet training method that works for all dogs. There are over 400 breeds of dogs. There is no way that all these different personalities of dogs can respond to some one universal method. This just does not exist. Well, Sort of. Let me clarify.....
When you first start to train your dog, you should start with basic training. Now basic training methods are fundamental and can be applied to all dogs. These methods are just the general foundation that you build when training your dog and these methods apply to any and every dog. An example would be the positive reinforcement method. This is a fundamental method where you train your dog by praising and rewarding him or her with treats when they complete a task or display good behavior!
However the basic methods are just that the basics. They are not enough. In order to properly train your dog to be obedient, housebroken, well behaved around people and other dogs you need advance training methods that are specific to the type of dog that you have. For example a Dalmatian is considered one for the most aggressive dogs among all dog breeds. In order to control and subdue that aggression you need advance behavior training methods that work for dalmatians. Methods for say Labrador Retrievers would not be as effective since they are one of the most non-aggressive of dog breeds.
Please let this information marinate. I have many friends and family members that went and adopted a dog because they looked cute and then attempted to just train it with just basic training methods. Their dogs sit alright. But their furniture, shoes and pretty much anything in the household has been chewed on including the family and occasional visitors :o). So I hope you found this dog training advice useful! Take care and say hi to the pooch for me.
About the Author
Do you feel that you can't train your dog because you don't know the first thing about training one? Well once you are taught the proper ways to train your dog it's a breeze. If you're in need of quality dog training books and additional information on dog behavior and dog health visit http://www.dogtrainingadvicearea.com/
Potty Training Advice Video from Welcome to Parenthood
Dogs and Cats, Training Eternal Enemies to Co-exist
Dogs and Cats. Eternal enemies, right? Through proper dog obedience training you can teach your animals to live together.
The first mistake that most pet owners make when introducing their pet dogs and cats is to allow them to make their own introductions. This is a mistake! As I stated above, these two species are eternal enemies. You can’t just set one down near the other and expect great results. (Ok, I know that can happen and does happen, but my job here is to teach you about dog training. My version of training calls for prevention with dogs and cats rather than creating a problem and then being forced to fix it. As Mom used to say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.) There is a good deal of prevention that should be used before allowing your dogs and cats to co-exist.
Whether you are introducing a new cat to a home with a dog or vice versa I want you to start out the same way. Start out by using your trusty dog crate. Put your dog in the crate and allow the cat to be in the same room. There are several possible outcomes to this action :
1. Your dog shows complete indifference. This is ideal. If your dog behaves like this you will have a quick transition.
2. Your dog shows fear. This is not ideal but it will make the transition easier than some other outcomes.
3. Your dog shows nervousness and anxiety. He whines, he paces in the crate, paws at the door of the crate, etc. This behavior tells you that he wants out. There is something about that cat that is exciting and he wants to know what it is.
4. Your dog shows overt aggression. He barks, claws at the door of the crate, and he knows exactly what he wants to do with that cat. This is going to be the toughest dog to train, but it can be done.
For the first few days don’t let your dogs and cats near each other. Keep the dog in the crate. This doesn’t mean you need to keep him in the crate 24/7. When you want him out of the crate just make sure that your cat is shut off in another bedroom to avoid contact. What you hope to accomplish with this action is to train your dog to be indifferent to the cat. You want your dog to view the cat as ‘background noise’. The cat is inconsequential, the cat doesn’t matter, there is nothing interesting or exciting about the cat. In other words, your dog is safely tucked away in the crate and casually observes the cat move around the house. For categories 1 and 2 this will be simple. It will take no more than a day or two for your dog to think of your cat as just another 'thing' in the house. Categories 3 and 4 will take more training and time.
For categories 3 and 4 you need to attach a negative association to showing cat aggression. To do this, get a spray bottle. Fill the bottle with either plain water, water mixed with lemon juice, or for very stubborn dogs, water with vinegar. At this point, your dog is still tucked away safely in the crate. The next part of training will be conducted while you are sitting near the crate, ready for action. The instant your dog shows aggression (barks at the cat, claws at the door, whines in frustration, etc.) toward the cat spray him in the face with your spray bottle. Every time he shows aggression spray him with the bottle. When he isn’t showing aggression give him soft praise, “Good boy”.
Make sure that your dog never gets a chance to show aggression toward the cat without having a bad experience. This means that you must always be ready with the spray bottle or make sure the cat isn’t near the dog. If you aren’t vigilant and your dog has the chance to show aggression with no adverse consequence, you are training him to show cat aggression.
If you are consistent with this exercise you will soon notice that your dog will show less and less aggression while in the crate, it just isn’t worth the squirt in the face for him. You are on your way to getting your dogs and cats to co-exist.
When your feel comfortable that your dog is indifferent to the cat move on to the next step. As I said, for categories 1 and 2 this is probably one or two days after beginning the crate training. For categories 3 and 4 get your dog to the point where he is indifferent and maintains that attitude for several days if not a week.
The next step is to get your dog out of the crate and get those dogs and cats together at last! You are going to move slowly, though. Put your dog training collar and leash on your dog and make sure that he is always wearing it around the house. Keep your dog near you and allow your cat to be in the room. If your dog makes any move whatsoever to chase the cat, bark at the cat, or perform any of the stereotypical behaviors that dogs and cats do, give him a very strong correction with the leash. You want this leash correction to be a very memorable one so it must be very strong. You want to form a very negative association toward cat aggression.
Be consistent with this training. If you do this properly you will notice that your dog has less and less of a desire to chase after or bark at the cat. As you notice your dog changing his behavior give him more and more freedom by allowing him to be closer to the cat and further away from you. Eventually you will phase out the use of the dog training collar and leash.
Even if your dog isn’t showing aggressive tendencies, never let him chase after the cat in the house, even playfully.
Even some of the hardest to train dogs will respond to the above method. There exist, however, certain dogs that have such strong prey drive that only drastic measures will cure them of their desire to chase and kill cats. For these dogs I employ an electric dog training collar.
Read the instruction manual on proper fitting for your electric dog training collar. With a stubborn dog that needs an electric collar the method is simple. With the collar on his neck and turned on to a high level of stimulus you are going to correct your dog every time he even looks at the cat. As your dog even sneaks a glance at your cat press the button to deliver the correction. Don’t say ‘no’, don’t react in any way, just correct him for looking at the cat. Do this as many times as it takes. Let’s examine this from your dog’s point of view. He wants to get to the cat, wants to chase, wants to kill. But the very act of looking at the cat causes him pain. You don’t tell him anything so he doesn’t associate the correction with you. He soon will learn to believe that the cat is ‘evil’ and he had better not even look at it because it the act of looking causes pain.
As with all training, you must be very consistent. Your dog must never have a successful chance to even chase or want to chase the cat. Be consistent, though, and soon your dogs and cats will be able to co-exist.
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] How can I get my newly adopted, 1-yr old Cattle Dog to eat consistently?
Logic says that "they'll eat when they're hungry," but our new dog only eats once every couple of days. We put food out twice a day for about 30 min. It's the same food she ate at the shelter. When she does decide to eat, she won't eat out of her bowl (stainless steel, same as water dish, and there are no problems w/drinking water), but will eat when a small handful is placed on the floor. It's so inconsistent, and makes potty-training her very difficult. She'll take treats readily (only given for good behavior & following commands). Any ideas?
If she is the only dog and you are feeding dry dog food. Fill the bowl and leave it down all the time. She will eat when she is hungry and will self regulate her diet. If you have a picky eater this works well. I free feed all of my dogs and they all maintain a nice weight.
Winter Disc Dog Training, Cattle Dog Style!
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Dogs and cats can develop fears of certain noises, human beings, and different objects. A fear of specific things can lead to inappropriate growling, snapping, urinating, and scratching. Your god or cat may injure itself while panicking during one of their fear attacks. All animals should be desensitized to their fears before is becomes a major problem.
Fearful behavior is normally caused by the following: • Invasion of personal space • Previous abuse • The lack of pleasant experiences with people at a young age
Lack of positive socialization can cause a pet to be afraid of people and other animals outside of the family. It is best to train your pet to interact with others when they are still young. Fearful behavior should be dealt with way before biting or snapping occurs. If this type of behavior has already occurred, consult with a behaviorist immediately.
Loud noises, such as doorbells, school buses, and thunder can also cause a pet to become apprehensive. To reinforce the behavior, console your pet during the situations. Negatively punishing the pet does nothing to address the fear itself. Never reward inappropriate actions with treats and praise.
If you are unsure of how to handle your pet's fearful behavior, talk to a behavior specialist or your veterinarian who is able to prescribe anti-anxiety medications to help during the behavior modification.
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Dog Training In Charlotte NC
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Super Dog Training Link The AVMA supports the concept of pediatric spay/neuter in dogs and cats in an effort to reduce the number of unwanted animals of these species. Just as for other veterinary medical and surgical procedures, veterinarians should use their best medical judgment in deciding at what age spay/neuter should be performed on individual animals.
Super Dog Training Source A physical examination is not just a chance for your vet to see how cute your dog is; a thorough exam can pick up on a variety of illnesses and prevent potential catastrophic disease. By finding, diagnosing and treating these problems early, your pet will live a much healthier and longer life.
Principle 10 A plan for conducting an experiment with living animals must be prepared in writing and approved prior to initiating the experiment or to obtaining the animals. Proper experimental design of projects and concern for animal welfare are important learning experiences and contribute to respect for and appropriate care of animals. The plan shall be reviewed by a committee composed of individuals who have the knowledge to understand and evaluate it and who have the authority to approve or disapprove it. The written plan should include the following:
* A statement of the specific hypotheses or principles to be tested, illustrated, or taught; * A summary of what is known about the subject under study, including references; * A detailed description of the methods and procedures to be used, including experimental design; data analysis; and all aspects of animal procurement, care, housing, use, and disposal. Super Dog Training In exercising its leadership role in assuring the health and well-being of animal populations in the United States, the American Veterinary Medical Association will work to prevent promulgation of regulations and implementation of policies that increase regulatory burden without clearly benefiting the welfare of animals or protecting the food supply and/or the public at large. As a matter or principle, the AVMA will promote the veterinary expertise of its members and their right to exercise professional judgment in using that expertise to ensure the appropriate care and treatment for animals under their charge. David Baron Laboratory testing plays an integral role in the early detection of changes in your pet's health. Diagnostic tests provide essential information by which our veterinarians can identify blood disorders, kidney and liver disease, diabetes, infection, cancer, thyroid disease and other hormonal problems. Our in-house laboratory provides fast and accurate information so that your pet can receive appropriate treatment immediately after arriving at the hospital. We also send diagnostic samples to Idexx Laboratories for routine blood and urine testing, microbiology, cytology, pathology, serology and other specialized tests. Our veterinarians are able to consult with Idexx veterinary specialists in several different fields including pathology, internal medicine, cardiology and radiology.
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Principle 10 A plan for conducting an experiment with living animals must be prepared in writing and approved prior to initiating the experiment or to obtaining the animals. Proper experimental design of projects and concern for animal welfare are important learning experiences and contribute to respect for and appropriate care of animals. The plan shall be reviewed by a committee composed of individuals who have the knowledge to understand and evaluate it and who have the authority to approve or disapprove it. The written plan should include the following:
Dog Training - How to get your dog to come back when called 2
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Dog kennel training is controversial in some circles. There are some people who believe that putting a dog in a kennel is type of punishment that no dog should have to endure. What many of these people may not realize is that most dogs need a safe a secure place to call their own. So instead of the closet corner, the bottom dresser drawer or a laundry basket full of clean clothes why not give them a place that is specifically theirs. As long as a dog kennel is used properly your dog will suffer little harm.
The first thing to understand is that when dog kennel training is to never use the kennel as a place you put your dog as a punishment if he has done something wrong. It may be tempting to do but you do not want your dog to become afraid of their kennel. It is also important not to leave your dog in a kennel for more then four hours at a time. Dogs, much like humans who work in a cube farm, need to get out in the fresh air, run around and take a potty break. Dogs will also begin to get anxious after about four hours cooped up in a kennel which will have the opposite affect of what you want to accomplish. The key to successfully kennel training your dog is doing it correctly.
There are many reasons to kennel train a dog. It is important to identify which behavior you are going to be kennel training your dog for. Does he need to be potty trained or is he chewing up things he shouldn't be? Once you the problem is known you can tailor the kennel training to fit your needs.
The idea is to make the kennel as homey as possible for your four legged friend. Make sure there is a warm comfortable pad or blanket to lay on and keep food and most importantly water available. You dogs kennel should be a place that he can go and feel safe and comfortable, this will make the training go much easier.
Let's look at two areas where dog kennel training works well; chewing and house-breaking.
You should keep chew toys available in your dogs kennel and no where else. If you catch him chewing something he shouldn't reprimand him firmly but do not yell at him. Show him his chew toy and put him in his kennel.
House-breaking can take a little more work, but using a kennel is a good way to break your dog of his house messing habits. If he claims his kennel as his refuge he will be like most all other dogs in that he won't go to the bathroom where he sleeps. When he is in his kennel keep an eye on him and when he starts to get restless let him out and take him outside to do his business. Praise him once he is done and repeat this process. He will soon learn that going to the bathroom is an outside activity.
Dog kennel training works well for stubborn or hard to train dogs. If used in the correct way it is a good way to train you dog to be a well behaved family friend.
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