[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Does Agility equipment for my dog have to cost hundreds?!?
I want to start to agility train my puppy. I have checked out some online sites and so far agility equipment has been SUPER expensive... Anyone know of a place (or person) who I can get good but not overly expensive agility equipment from? Thanks
Caelynn is right. PVC equipment is easy to make.
You can get a "tunnel" intended for kids much, much cheaper than the official agility tunnels.
Agility Training for Dogs : Use Positive Reinforcement During Dog Agility Training
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Unless otherwise noted, the specifications discussed in this article refer to those described within the Official Baseball Rules, under which Major League Baseball is played. The starting point for much of the action on the field is home plate, which is a five-sided slab of whitened rubber, 17-inches square with two of the corners removed so that one edge is 17 inches long, two adjacent sides are 8 inches and the remaining two sides are 12 inches and set at an angle to make a point. Adjacent to each of the two parallel 8 1/2-inch sides is a batter's box. The point of home plate where the two 12-inch sides meet at right angles, is at one corner of a ninety-foot square. The other three corners of the square, in counterclockwise order from home plate, are called first base, second base, and third base. Three canvas bags fifteen inches (38 cm) square mark the three bases. These three bags along with home plate form the four bases at the corners of the infield.
A subtlety about the bases is that all the base bags, along with home plate, lie entirely within fair territory. Thus, any batted ball touching those bases must necessarily be in fair territory while touching the bag or plate. While the first and third base bags are placed so that they lie inside the 90 foot square formed by the bases, the second base bag is placed so that its center (unlike first, third and home) coincides exactly with the "point" of the ninety-foot infield square. Thus, although the "points" of the bases are 90 feet apart, the physical distance between each successive pair of base markers is closer to 88 feet. This positioning of the second base bag creates an "offset" (of one-half of its bag width) from pure "alignment" with the first and third base bags - an anomaly which does not seem to have affected play over the years and generally goes unnoticed by players and fans.
The lines from home plate to first and third bases extend to the nearest fence, stand or other obstruction and are called the foul lines. The portion of the playing field between (and including) the foul lines is fair territory; the rest is foul territory. The area in the vicinity of the square formed by the bases is called the infield; fair territory outside the infield is known as the outfield. Most baseball fields are enclosed with a fence that marks the outer edge of the outfield. The fence is usually set at a distance ranging from 300 to 410 feet (90 to 125 m) from home plate. Most professional and college baseball fields have a right and left foul pole. These poles are at the intersection of the foul lines and the respective ends of the outfield fence and, unless otherwise specified within the ground rules, lie in fair territory. Thus, a batted ball that passes over the outfield wall in flight and touches the foul pole is a fair ball and the batter is awarded a home run. Another common feature of baseball fields is a warning track, a narrow dirt path that follows the outer edge of the outfield at the fence to serve to warn outfielders of their proximity to the wall.
First base
Main article: First baseman
First base foul pole at Citi Field in Flushing, Queens.
First base is the first of four bases that must be touched by a player on the batting team in order to score a run. Unlike when an offensive player reaches second or third base, it is permissible for a batter-runner to overrun first base without being in jeopardy of being put out. After contact is made with the base, the batter-runner may slow down and return to first base at his leisure, so long as he makes no move or attempt to advance to second base.
There are nine ways a batter can reach first base. They are:
Walk
Hit
Hit by pitch
Fielder's choice
Error
Uncaught third strike
Catcher's interference
Umpire's interference
Obstruction
The first baseman is the defensive player responsible for the area near first base. A professional first baseman is often tall. A tall first baseman presents a large target to which other fielders can throw, and his height gives him a larger range in reaching and catching errant throws. Players who are left-handed are preferable for first base because: first, it is easier for a left-handed fielder to catch a pick-off throw from the pitcher and tag the baserunner; and, second, his left foot (which he uses to maintain contact with first base after receiving a throw from another fielder) is closer to first base than his right foot. (A right-handed first baseman must, when setting himself up to receive a throw from an infielder, execute a half-pivot near the base; this is a move that a left-hander need not make.)
In the numbering system used to record defensive plays, the first baseman is assigned the number '3'.
Second base
Main article: Second baseman
Second base, or 2B, is the second of four stations on a baseball diamond which must be touched in succession by a base runner in order to score a run for that player's team. Second base is typically defended by the second baseman and the shortstop. Second base is also known as the keystone sack. A runner on second base is said to be in "scoring position," owing to the high likelihood of reaching home plate and scoring a run from second base on most base hits. Since second is the farthest base from home plate, it is the most common target of base stealing.
Ideally, the second baseman and shortstop possess quick hands and feet and the ability to release the ball rapidly and with accuracy. One will usually cover second base when the other attempts to field the ball. Both players must communicate well to be able to make a double play. Particular agility is required of the second baseman in double play situations, which usually forces the player to throw towards first while his momentum carries him in the opposite direction. In the numbering system used to record defensive plays, the second baseman is assigned the number 4, and the shortstop 6.
Third base
Main article: Third baseman
Third base is the third of four bases a baserunner must touch in a counterclockwise succession in order to score a run. Many batted balls that result in the batter being put out (such as a sacrifice fly) may nevertheless allow a runner to reach home plate and score a run from third base, provided that the third and final out is not recorded before he can do so. A runner on third base is therefore particularly valuable to the batting team when fewer than 2 outs have been recorded.
The third baseman, or 3B, is the defensive player whose responsibility is to defend the area nearest to third base. A third baseman ideally possesses quick reaction to batted balls and a strong arm to make the long throw to first base. In the numbering system used to record defensive plays, the third baseman is assigned the number 5.
Home plate
Home plate of Teb baseball field
Home plate, formally designated home base in the rules, is the final base that a player must touch to score. Unlike the other bases, home plate is a five-sided slab of whitened rubber that is set at ground level. The use of rubber was developed by Robert Keating, who pitched one game for the 1887 Baltimore Orioles. Previously, more dangerously, the plate was made of stone, iron or wood.
50 to 100 feet (15 to 30 meters) behind home plate is the backstop, which is a wall/fence that will stop wild pitches, passed balls, and foul balls. In enclosed stadiums, the backstop is often composed of a lower part, which is like any other part of the wall, and an upper netting to protect spectators seated behind it; in recreational baseball fields, there is usually a tall chain-link fence, including an angled top section, composing the entire backstop.
Additionally, the catcher covers home plate when a runner is attempting to score a run; he must tag the runner with the ball (or the glove with the ball inside) before the runner touches home plate, or in the event that the bases are loaded he may simply touch home plate while in possession of the ball to get the runner out. Professional catchers in the major leagues often have large body frames to maximally obstruct home plate from the runner's access. In the numbering system used to record defensive plays, the catcher is assigned the number 2.
Batter's box and catcher's box
David Ortiz (in gray) of the Boston Red Sox stands in the batter's box for left-handed hitters.
The batter's box is the place where the batter stands when ready to receive a pitch from the pitcher. It is usually drawn in chalk on the dirt surrounding home plate, and the insides of the boxes are watered down before each game.
The chalk lines delineating the 2 Foul Lines are often not extended through the batter's boxes. However, those lines exist conceptually for the purpose of judging a batted ball fair or foul. In addition, inside edges of the Batter's Boxes are often not laid-in with chalk. Similarly, though not marked, those lines continue to exist for the purpose of the rules pertaining to the batter's box and the batter's position relative thereto.
There are two batter's boxes, one on each side of home plate. The batter's boxes are 4 feet wide and 6 feet long. The batter's boxes are centered lengthwise at the center of home plate with the inside line of each batter's box 6 inches from the near edge of home plate. A right-handed batter would stand in the batter's box on the left side of home plate from the perspective of the catcher and umpire. A left-handed batter would stand in the batter's box to their right. A batter may only occupy one batter's box at a time and may not legally leave the batter's box after the pitcher has come set or has started his windup. Should the batter wish to leave the batter's box once the pitcher has engaged the rubber, he must first ask the umpire for time-out. Time will not be granted if the pitcher has already started his pitching motion. For playing rules relating to the batter's box, see Rules 6.05 and 6.06 of the Official Baseball Rules.
The catcher is the defensive player who is positioned to receive pitches - generally positioned within the catcher's box. The catcher's box is 43 inches wide, centered on and extending 8 feet behind the point of home plate. Rule sets vary as to the catcher's responsibility to remain in the catcher's box. Under Official Baseball Rules, the only specified penalty relating to the catcher's box is that when a batter is being walked intentionally, it is a balk if the catcher to steps outside the catcher's box before the pitcher releases the pitch.
Foul poles
1 of 2 foul poles at Citizens Bank Park, Philadelphia.
The purpose of the foul poles is to help the umpire judge whether a fly ball hit above the fence line is foul (out of play) or fair (a home run). The poles are a vertical extension of the foul lines. Both objects are used to determine whether a ball is foul or fair. The outer edge of the foul lines and foul poles define foul territory and both the lines and the poles themselves are actually within fair territory. Prior to 1920, the foul lines were "infinite": a batter was awarded a home run only if a fly ball over the fence landed in fair territory, or was fair "when last seen" by the umpire. Under the current rule, a batted ball that goes out of play in flight is judged fair or foul at the point it clears the fence. Thus, a fly ball hitting a foul pole above the top of the outfield fence is a home run, regardless of where the ball goes after striking this pole, and a fly ball clearing the fence on the fair side of the pole is a home run regardless of where it lands. Foul poles (shown at right) are typically much higher than the top of the outfield fence, and often have a narrow screen running along the fair side of the pole to further aid the umpire's judgment. It can still be a difficult call, especially in ballparks with no outfield stands behind the poles to provide perspective. Wrigley Field is notorious for arguments over long, curving flies down a foul line (most notably in left field) that sail higher than the foul pole.
Pitcher's mound
The pitcher moves forward off the rubber as the pitch is released.
In roughly the middle of the square, equidistant between first and third base, and a few feet closer to home plate than to second base, is a low artificial hill called the pitcher's mound. This is where the pitcher stands when throwing the pitch. Atop the mound is a white rubber slab, called the pitcher's plate or commonly the rubber, 6 inches (15 cm) front-to-back and 2 feet (61 cm) across, the front of which is exactly 60 feet, 6 inches (18.4 m) from the rear point of home plate. This peculiar distance was set by the rulemakers in 1893, not due to a clerical or surveying error as popular myth has it, but purposely (further details in History section).
In Major League Baseball, a regulation mound is 18 feet (5.5 m) in diameter, with the center 59 feet (18.0 m) from the rear point of home plate, on the line between home plate and second base. The front edge of the pitcher's plate or rubber is 18 inches (45.7 cm) behind the center of the mound, making the front edge's midpoint 60 feet 6 inches (18.4 m) from the rear point of home plate. Six inches (15.2 cm) in front of the pitcher's rubber the mound begins to slope downward. The top of the rubber is to be no higher than ten inches (25.4 cm) above home plate. From 1903 through 1968, this height limit was set at 15 inches, but was often slightly higher, sometimes as high as 20 inches (50.8 cm), especially for teams that emphasized pitching, such as the Los Angeles Dodgers, who were reputed to have the highest mound in the majors.
A pitcher will push off the rubber with his foot in order to gain velocity toward home plate when pitching. In addition, a higher mound generally favors the pitcher. With the height advantage, the pitcher gains more leverage and can put more downward velocity on the ball, making it more difficult for the batter to strike the ball squarely with the bat. The lowering of the mound in 1969 was intended to "increase the batting" once again, as pitching had become increasingly dominant, reaching its peak the prior year; 1968 is known among baseball historians as "The Year of the Pitcher". This restrictive rule apparently did its job, contributing to the hitting surge of modern baseball.
In Little League Baseball, the distance between the mound and homeplate is 46'. PONY Baseball caters to most of the same age ranges as Little League in their Shetland, Pinto, Mustang and Bronco divisions (covering ages 5 through 12 respectively) Each of these divisions features a different distance between the mound and home plate, as well as progressively longer baselines. This graduation of the field dimensions is meant to mirror the growth of the participants themselves as they mature physically. For example the Mustang division mound is 44' from home, and the Bronco division 48'. PONY baseball offers divisions for kids beyond the age of 12 in the Pony, Colt and Palomino divisions. The Pony division utilizes a 54' distance from the mound to home while Colt and Palomino use a major league dimensions of 60' 6" mound distance and 90' basepaths.
A pitcher's mound is difficult for groundskeepers to maintain. Usually before every game it is watered down to keep the dust from spreading. On youth and amateur baseball fields, the mound may be much different from the rulebook definition due to erosion and repair attempts. Even in the major leagues, each mound gains its own character, as pitchers are allowed to kick away pieces of dirt in their way, thereby sculpting the mound a bit to their preference. Mark Fidrych is an example of such a pitcher. The pitcher may keep a rosin bag on the rear of the mound to dry off his hands
Baseline
A baseline is the direct route straight line between two adjacent bases, though it is not drawn in chalk or paint on the field (though foul lines are drawn). The basepath is the region within three feet (0.9 m) of the baseline. Baserunners are not required to run in this objective basepath, however; a baserunner may run wherever he wants when no play is being attempted on him. At the moment the defense begins to attempt a tag on him, his running baseline is established as a direct line from his current position to the base which he is trying for. A runner straying more than three feet away from his baseline in an attempt to avoid a tag may be called out.
Grass line
The H.H.H. Metrodome, showing a white "grass" line.
The grass line, where the dirt of the infield ends and the grass of the outfield begins, has no special significance to the rules of the game, but it can influence the outcome of a game. Dirt running paths between the bases (and, at one time, between the pitcher and the catcher) have existed since the beginning of the game, although they were not mentioned in the rule books until around 1950, and their specifications are flexible. In addition to providing a running path, the grass lines act as a visual aid so that players, umpires and fans may better judge distance from the center of the diamond. Occasionally the ball may take a tricky bounce off the dirt area or the edge between the dirt and the grass. World Series championships (including 1924, 1960 and 1986) have been decided or heavily influenced by erratic hops of ground balls. In artificial turf stadiums (such as those with FieldTurf in Major League Baseball), infield dirt is placed only around the bases and around the pitcher's and batting areas; thus the "grass line" is designated with a white line. The exception is at St. Petersburg's Tropicana Field, where, in spite of artificial turf, standard dirt basepaths are used.
Outfield
The outfield is made from thick grass or artificial turf. It is where the outfielders play. The positions to play in the outfield are right, center, and left field. Outfields vary in size depending on the size of the overall field.
Warning track
The bottom of the picture shows part of the orange clay colored warning track at Fenway Park.
The warning track typically refers to the strip of dirt in front of the home run fence. Because the warning track's color and feel differs from the grass outfield, an outfielder can remain focused on a fly ball near the fence and take his proximity to the fence into consideration while attempting to catch the ball safely. It is also used for grounds maintenance so as to not drive on the grass field.
A warning track is also a common feature along the left and right sides of a field.
A warning track's width varies from field to field. It is generally designed to give about three steps of warning to the highest level players using the field. Typical widths run from about six feet for Little League fields to about 1015 feet for college- or professional-level play.
The track can be composed of finely ground rock particles such as cinders, which is why announcer Bob Wolff called it the "cinder path" rather than the "warning track".
The idea of a warning track originated in Yankee Stadium, where an actual running track was built for the use of track and field events. When baseball people saw how the track helped fielders, it soon became a feature of every ballpark.
Despite the warning track's presence, it is common to see outfielders crash into the wall to make a catch, due either to a desire to field the play regardless of the outcome or because they fail to register the warning. For this reason, outfield walls are typically padded for extra safety, where feasible. Wrigley Field's brick wall is covered only by ivy, which is not especially soft. There are pads on the walls of the tight left and right field corners in foul ground.
Warning-track power is a derogatory term for a batter who seems to have just enough power to hit the ball to the warning track for an out, but not enough to hit a home run. The term more generally refers to someone or something that is almost but not quite good enough for something.
Outfield wall
The Green Monster in 2006, showing the manual scoreboard and Green Monster seating, and more recent additions, including charity advertisements along the top, billboards above the Green Monster seating, and the American League East standings.
Outfield wall is the wall that separates the outfield from the out of play zone. Certain ballparks give up more home runs depending on the height of their walls. Fenway Park's Green Monster is the tallest of these walls at 37 ft. Many ballparks have padding on the walls for the protection of outfielders trying to make plays.
Bullpen
Main article: Bullpen
The bullpen (sometimes referred to as simply "the pen") is the area where pitchers warm-up before entering a game. Depending on the ballpark, it may be situated in foul territory along the baselines or just beyond the outfield fence. Relief pitchers usually wait in the bullpen when they have yet to play in a game, rather than in the dugout with the rest of the team. The starting pitcher also makes his final pregame warmups in the bullpen. Managers can call coaches in the bullpen on an in-house telephone from the dugout to tell a certain pitcher to begin his warmup tosses. "Bullpen" is also used metaphorically to describe a team's collection of relief pitchers.
Pitchers warming up in the bullpen
On-deck circles
Main article: On deck
There are two on-deck circles in the field, one for each team, positioned in foul ground between home plate and the respective teams' benches. They are technically known as next-batter's boxes. The on-deck circle is where the next scheduled batter, or "on-deck" batter, warms up while waiting for the current batter to finish his turn. The on-deck circle is either an area composed of bare dirt; a plain circle painted onto artificial turf; or often, especially at the professional level, made from artificial material, with the team's logo painted onto it.
Coach's boxes
The coach's boxes, located behind 1st and 3rd base, are where the 1st and 3rd base coach are supposed to stand, but often they don't stand on them and move closer into the field. That is permissible as long as they do not interfere with play. The coach's boxes are marked with chalk or paint. In early day's, the term "coacher's box" was used, as "coach" was taken to be a verb. As the term "coach" evolved into a noun, the name of the box also changed.
History
The basic layout of the diamond has been little changed since the original Knickerbocker Rules of the 1840s. The distance between bases was already established as 90 feet, which it remains to this day. Through trial and error, 90 feet had been settled upon as the optimal distance. 100 feet would have given too much advantage to the defense, and 80 feet too much to the offense. As athleticism has improved on both sides of the equation, 90 feet remains the appropriate balance between hitting and fielding, as it continues to provide frequent tests between the speed of a batter-runner and the throwing arm of a fielder.
It is the pitching distance, and other aspects of the pitcher's mound, and of pitching itself, that were tinkered with from time to time over the many decades, in an effort to keep an appropriate balance between pitching and hitting.
In contrast to the distance between the bases, which seems natural enough, the very specific pitching distance of 60 feet 6 inches is one of those sports oddities that seems like a mistake unless one knows the history:
The original Knickerbocker Rules did not specify the pitching distance explicitly.
By the time major league baseball began in the 1870s, the pitcher was compelled to pitch from within a "box" whose front edge was 45 feet from the "point" of home plate. Although he had to release the ball before crossing the line, as with bowlers in cricket, he also had to start his delivery from within the box; he could not run in from the field as bowlers do. Furthermore, he had to throw underhand. By the 1880s, pitchers had mastered the underhand delivery quite well. The year 1880 saw two perfect games within a week of each other.
In an attempt to "increase the batting", the front edge of the pitcher's box was moved back 5 feet in 1881, to 50 feet from home plate.
The size of the box was tinkered with over the next few years. Pitchers were allowed to throw overhand starting in 1884, and that tilted the balance of power again. In 1887, the box was set at 4 feet wide and 5 1/2 feet deep, with the front edge still 50 feet from the plate. However, the pitcher was compelled to deliver the ball with his back foot at the 55 1/2 foot line of the box, thus somewhat restricting his ability to "power" the ball with his overhand delivery. (Lansch, p. 96)
In 1893, the box was replaced by the pitcher's plate, although the term "knocked out of the box" is still sometimes used when a pitcher is replaced for ineffectiveness. Exactly 5 feet was added to the point the pitcher had to toe, again "to increase the batting" (and hopefully to increase attendance, as fan interest had flagged somewhat), resulting in the seemingly peculiar pitching distance of 60 1/2 feet. (Lansch, p. 230)
Many sources tend to say that the pitching distance evolved from 45 to 50 to 60 1/2 feet. However, the first two were the "release point" and the third is the "pushoff point", so the 1893 increase was not quite as dramatic as is often implied; that is, the 1893 rule change added only 5 feet to the release point, not 10 1/2 feet.
Originally the pitcher threw from flat ground (as softball pitchers still do), but over time the mound was developed, tipping the balance back the pitchers' way somewhat.
Prior to the mid-20th century, it was common for baseball fields to include a dirt pathway between the pitcher's mound and home plate. This feature, sometimes known as the "keyhole" for the shape that it makes together with the mound, was once as wide as the pitcher's box and resembled the "pitch" area used in the game of cricket. Sometimes this path extended through the batting area and all the way to the backstop. Once the rounded pitcher's mound was developed, the path became more ornamental than practical, and was gradually made thinner before being largely abandoned by the late 1940s. In recent years some ballparks, such as Comerica Park and Chase Field in the major leagues, have revived the feature for nostalgic reasons.
References
^ Official Baseball Rules - Rule 1
^ James, B. New Historical Baseball Abstract.
Official Rules of Major League Baseball
The Baseball Encyclopedia, published by MacMillan
Glory Fades Away, by Jerry Lansch
External links
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Baseball concepts
Field
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Equipment
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Game process
Innings Extra innings Out Seventh-inning stretch Batting order Run On deck
Batting
At bat Hit and run Sacrifice bunt Sacrifice fly Slap bunt Baltimore Chop Bunt Foul ball Foul tip Ground rule double Hit Hit by pitch Strikeout Double Triple Home run Inside-the-park home run Check-swing Walk-off home run Lefty-righty switch Double switch Line drive Batting count Sweet spot Pull hitter
Pitching
Balk Wild pitch Passed ball Beanball Pitchout Breaking ball Brushback pitch Changeup Curveball Pitch count Strikeout Striking out the side
Baserunning
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Fielding
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Miscellaneous
In flight Infield Fly Rule Bench-clearing brawl Pepper Safe Uncaught third strike Interference Golden sombrero Ground rules Instant replay Baseball jargon Slump Bench jockey You're out
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] How can I lose weight in this kind of environment i have been struggling with this for months.?
Ok so this is how it is, I am 5'4 and a half tall and I weigh about 112-113 lbs. Most of my weight is in my sides and thighs. I can't really run in my neighborhood because of the dogs that are around, and i done really have any fitness equipment in my house ive tried situps before i dont 100 everyday and nothing really happened, but my dad has a weight bench and i can use it, but i really need some help anyone got any ideas? I want to lose like 10-15 lbs thats all within a month
make sure you are following a healthy diet, at least 200 calories less than your daily calories needed. input your stats into this to find what your daily calorie need is.
do crunches with weight resistance, that way you only need to do 3 reps of 20 crunches and get the same effect as doing 100 crunches with out resistance. squats and jumps will help you tone your thighs.
remember: crunches and squats will not make you lose fat in those specific areas. the only way you can lose weight is overall through burning more calories than you consume. you need to burn about 3,500 calories to lose 1 lb of fat. the crunches and squats will help tone your body, which will make you look leaner once you lose the fat.
you can not lose 10-15 lbs in a month. you can lose up to 2 lbs a week, but 1 lb is more realistic. so expect to lose about 4 lbs a month. your goal will take about 2 1/2 months.
don't starve your self, EVER! this will only cause your metabolism to slow down, and then you will finally binge because you've been starving yourself, and that binge will pack on the pounds more than if you ate that much with out starving because your metabolism is messed up.
How do I train my dog to stay home during the day while I am at work?
He is a 8 yrs. old chiahuhua mixed with boston bull terrier. Currently, he stays at my mother-in-law's but she will be moving soon and pets are not allowed at her new place.
Try having your mother-in-law or another trusted friend or relative come to YOUR home for a few weeks to "dog-sit", then have them just come for a hour or 2 a day...then every other day, until you can just gradually get the dog used to being alone while you work
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Australian Shepherds are commonly used as working dogs or as pets. There has now been an increase in purchasing this breed as a show dog.
Many new owners have to decide on whether or not to purchase an Australian Shepherd as a pet, working dog or a show dog. Contrary to popular belief, there are major differences in the way that show dogs look and how they are raised when compared to their working counterparts.
When choosing a new Australian Shepherd puppy, you must make note that some are bred to be family pets or working dogs, while others are used for show purposes. Those are the major differences between each purpose. Pet-quality pups are not up to the breed standard, but still make a great dog for companionship. Show and breeding-quality dogs, are animals that meet the physical requirements of the breeding standard. No matter whether you are purchasing an Australian Shepherd for a pet or a show dog, come of them cannot handle being in the show environment. With this being said, there are some show dogs that do not fit the breed standard to exact specifications and can still become winners.
When purchasing an Australian Shepherd for the purposes of showing in competitions, there are several things that the puppy must learn in order to be successful in the ring. The basics of discipline are usually the first things taught to a new puppy. Many owners of the Australian Shepherd agree that the breed is easy to train in basic commands. The Australian Shepherd was specifically bred to learn to take direction from its master, and the breed is very intelligent and great with problem solving skills.
If you are training your Australian Shepherd to be a show dog, one of the most important skills to teach is obedience. Teaching any dog basic obedience is a good idea for forming a better relationship and bond with your pet. The basic commands such as stay, sit, lay down and come are vital to get your dog to preform well in the show ring. Once mastering the basic commands, some owners also enjoy getting the dog involved in such activities as tracking ability, Frisbee, agility courses, fly ball and many other dog related sports.
People who purchase an Australian Shepherd as show dog, also find that the dog makes a great family pet, attentive companion and an excellent and versatile work dog.
Dog Scootering is an activity which is rapidly gaining popularity across the UK - dogs love to run and what better way to allow them to; you may have seen somebody in your local neighbourhood whizzing past you on a scooter being pulled by their dog or dogs. It is a great way to exercise and bond with your pet and is suitable for almost any fit and healthy dog.
Dog Scootering is a sport where one or more dogs pull a human riding an unmotorised two wheeled scooter. The human can help the dog along by scooting and together can cover a much wider area than by walking in the same time frame. This is a great way to exercise for both you and your dog. The dog obviously gets exercise by pulling the scooter and running, but people also get exercise, as they have to assist the dog by pushing the scooter, and at times, getting off and running with the scooter, especially up hills! Most dogs take to scootering immediately and need little or no encouragement to run as fast as they can, whilst going out to new and exciting places. As a scootering team get more experienced and confident, you can visit new trails and travel further, and can lead to a stronger bond between owner and dog.
Almost any type of dogs can pull a scooter, from Huskies, to Great Danes, and Schnauzers to Spaniels. The smaller the dog, the more you will have to help out on hills and rough spots. All dogs, regardless of size, must be slowly worked into fitness, along with their owners. Don't expect to run the Iditarod in your first month!
So how do you start scootering?
All you need to get started is yourself and your dog, a scooter, a harness and a gangline.
There are a variety of different types of scooter on the market currently, ranging from £150 to £400. Scooters are unmotorised and most have mountain bike type tyres, ranging from 16" to 26". The scooters have a large footplate to balance, stand upon and kick off from, and usually have a front and rear brake.
You may find some models only have a rear brake, and other models are now incorporating front shocks to absorb the bumps when riding over rough terrain. Most scooters allow the gangline to be connected around the head stock of the scooter, but there are some varieties of scooter which have introduced a "brushbow" attachment, which cover the front wheel. This protects the dogs from the wheel and also allows the gangline to be connected in a direct line to the rear of the harness.
An alternative sport similar to scootering is bikejoring. This is where a bike is used instead of a scooter, although some people view this as a more dangerous alternative, as it can be more difficult to dismount a bike in an emergency. Others feel more secure on a bike.
Scooters are easily transportable. They can fit inside a car (if you don't mind the mud!), a car boot or can be carried on a bike rack attached to the back or top of a car.
There are two types of harnesses that are generally used for scootering; the X-Back Harness and the Shoulder Harness.
The X-Back Harness is the mainstay product of the majority of professional and recreational mushers. Most commonly seen on pictures of sled dogs around the globe, this harness is the traditional style of capturing a dogs pulling power. It is important the harness fits snugly but not tightly around the neck and extends along the back stopping just short of the tail. As well as sledding and dryland mushing, this harness can be used for skijoring, bikejoring, cani-cross and scootering. The Shoulder Harness; this style of harness connects around the shoulders of the dog with the hitching point just below the shoulder blades. This has the advantage of allowing all the power generated at the shoulders to be harnessed directly, which is particularly useful when the hitching point is not directly in line with the dogs topline, such as with scootering, skijoring and bikejoring. If the connection point is significantly higher than the dogs topline, then the use of an X Back harness can cause the dogs back legs to be lifted away from the ground slightly reducing the power. Some long distance mushers in the Iditarod have also cited shoulder harnesses put less stress on the lower back and hips of the dog. Finally, you will require a gangline which is the line that connects your dog to the scooter.
The gangline will usually consist of two sections; the first called a tug line and the second a bungee line. Alternatively, you can obtain a single longer line which incorporates a bungee within. It is important to use a bungee within the lines, as it will absorb any sharp impacts from the scooter away from the dog and make the experience far more enjoyable.
There are double tug lines that are available once you progress to running two dogs. Most double tug lines will come with a neckline, which clips to the collar of each dog, to keep them running alongside each other.
There is no need for any special attachments to connect the gangline to the scooter - the lines can wrap around the head stock of the scooter; alternatively, as previously mentioned, some scooters are manufactured with special connections points for dog scootering.
Besides the equipment stated above, there is plenty more items and supplies you may wish to take with you whilst out scootering:
Water and Dog Bowl - dogs will drink lots of water especially after exercise. Always make sure your dog has access to fresh clean drinking water before and after exercising.
Treats - you will want to reward your dog after a great time scootering!
Poo Bags - most places now request that you use poo bags after your dog. This is a good reason to encourage your dog to go to the toilet before starting your scootering session.
Protective Equipment - you may wish to wear a helmet, wrist guards, knee pads and or googles when scootering, depending on the speed of your dog and the type of surface you are scootering on.
Dog Booties - Booties protects dog paws from hot pavement, sharp gravel and stones. There is often an adjustment period for the dog's paws, and they may get sore or cut initially if on a longer run, until they toughen up. The owner should ALWAYS carry booties along for cuts and abrasions, and to prevent infection.
Getting started for the first time
For your first run with your dog, choose a familiar route or trail. A good choice is to take the dog to a fun place he's used to visiting, so he has a destination in mind, like the park. A recognised trail is better than an open field because a dog does not know the direction to take when facing an open field. A narrow trail is better than a wide one. If you can, bring a family member or friend on a bicycle, and ask them to ride in front of you.
The dog's first lesson is that the scooter is FUN because he gets to RUN. Keep the run short for the first few trips. Stop well before the dog is tired. Stop while he still wants to go. The first run might be as short as a few minutes or a few miles. Remember that a dog that is out of shape and/or overweight will tire quickly and even can damage joints or pull muscles.
Most people starting out will have just one dog. As always start off slowly. Before you start off on the scooter, walk the dog a little so he has the opportunity to go to the toilet. This will reduce the possibility of your dog having to stop whilst running in harness. Put the dog into his harness and attach them to the scooter with the gangline. An assistant is useful to hold the scooter (one foot on the scooter pad, both brakes squeezed tight) whilst you hook up your dog.
Once you are rolling, keep your fingers on the brake levers, and use your brakes lightly as needed to keep the gangline tight at all times. Ride to the side, not directly behind your dog and have fun!
Watch your gangline carefully - you do not want to ride over it and get it stuck round your front wheel or the dog's leg. Keeping the lines tight is your responsibility and can be done by using the scooter brakes lightly whenever the dog slows down. Do not let the scooter ride up next to the dog. The dog's job is always to hold the line out tight in front of the scooter. Novice dogs may pull sideways sniffing and lifting their legs. They will suddenly stop to poo as running causes the bowels to move. When first training the dog, steer the scooter to one side of him so that if he stops suddenly, you will miss him if you can't stop in time. Do not ride directly behind him.
If your dog gets confused, you or your helper can run beside him with a leash while the other rides the scooter. Keep encouraging him to pull. Heel trained dogs may be unsure that it's okay to be out front and pulling. Once they catch on, most dogs really love the pulling and running aspects of scootering. Again start off with short distances and build up gradually. Another way to encourage your dog to run is by getting somebody (your assistant!) to cycle in front calling your dog on.
A very important part of the training is command training. Remember, you cannot easily reach your dog without stopping and getting off the scooter and it may be too late to sort the issues, so an obedient dog which listens to your commands is very important. It will also make the experience far more pleasurable if both of you know what you are doing and what is expected.
The basic commands are "Gee" for right turn, "Haw" for left turn, "Straight on" for straight on, "On by" for overtaking or passing a distraction. There are many other commands such as "Hike on" or "Get on" for speeding up, or "Steady" or "Easy" for slowing down. Many people use these commands or variants of these, but the main thing to remember is to be consistent. "Whoa" is essential to get down before hooking him up to the scooter. Having good brakes on the scooter is essential for stopping dogs as most dogs consider the command "whoa" as only a suggestion!
Teach your dog mushing commands even when out walking to get them used to them:
Some basic commands:
Gee = Go Right Haw = Go Left Straight On = Straight On Hike / Pull = Go Forward Whooa = Gentle Stop Trail = Stay on the trail On By = Go past (e.g. past a distraction) Easy = Go Slower
These are just examples. Use whatever commands you feel comfortable with; just keep them consistent.
The younger a dog is in terms of training, the easier it tends to be to train them. However when it comes to strenuous pulling exercises, it is advisable to let them finish growing and for their hips to have fused before undertaking any serious training or exercise. Many dogs start being trained from 6 months to work in harness, but will not pull any significant weight for any distance until they are at least a year old. It is recommended to get your dog checked over by your vet before starting to scooter.
When and where can I do this?
Depending on your dogs overall demeanor and your general control, this can be done on virtually any off road trail that is firm enough to cycle on. Generally pavements and roads are not advisable as the hard surface will put impact pressure on the dogs joints and the risk of incidents with traffic and pedestrians is high.
The best time of year and weather to scooter in will heavily depend on your dogs coat and temperature tolerance, while it is typically a winter activity for densely coated northern breeds, other dogs with thinner coats would be able to run at virtually any time of year as long as you avoid particularly warm days.
Dog Food Secrets is your best guide to a healthy and happy dog which would have an increased life span. The book gives you guide lines to preparing home made recipes for your dog. You will be able to feed your dog with a well balanced and calorie controlled food. The book also tells you about the principles of nutrition and calorie for your dog.
Clicker training - A best selling dog training book, Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Super Trainer can help you teach your dog. Originating from Norway it has been published in Sweden, Denmark and Finland as well. With more than 45,000 hard copies sold it has become the number one clicker training resource available today.
Dove Cresswell's Dog Training program is the fastest, most effective, and most FUN way to train your dog. Her online video training series is the preferred method of dog owners everywhere. The great thing about Dove's series is that it's not bogged down with confusing information or off-topic content. Her videos get right to the point. Why waste your time on anything else?
[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] how do i get a sales license?
im a dog trainer and i'm now making agility equipment and selling it. what type of license do i need to sell things since before i was only offering services. i am in denver, colorado.
You get it at your local chamber of commerce. It will be sales tax.
KSDS Puppies in Training and Service Dogs visit the Fire Station
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Dog Training Products Used to Modify Your Dog's Behavior
Everyone likes to be appreciated for good behavior. Why should our pet dogs be an exception then? Well they surely aren't. Praises and dog training treats are tools that work great for positive dog training. However, there are certain rules that should be kept in mind while using training treats for dogs so that instead of the owner getting the right kind of response from his pet dog, he doesn't get manipulated by the canine in doling out a treat for every time he wants to get a response.
Dog Treat Training - Important Points
Positive reinforcement training through dog treats is something that dog trainers commonly resort to. Yes, the technique is just as simple as it sounds. But there are certain guidelines that need to be followed before your sweet puddle starts ruling your household with an iron paw. Those guidelines are:
Time Your Treat: The treat should be given within a few seconds of achieved reaction. Otherwise your pet may not be able to associate it with his response that is being appreciated.
Keep Your Commands Short: Dogs won't understand long sentences. Don't say "Fudge I know you are a good boy. I want you to sit for me now." All that you would draw from Fudge is a blank stare. Keep your commands short like sit, stay, come and so on.
Be Consistent: Everyone in the family must use the same command otherwise your pet may get confused. Instead of getting positive behavior you would have the pet behaving in a completely opposite way. Not that it is his fault or that he is doing it on purpose. He's just not getting the right cue from you.
Come Off the Treat Gradually: Start off with treating your dog four out of five times. Them come down to three, two and one. Let the the affair finally be an occasional treat. This aspect of dog training is very important to prevent your dog from getting used to treats. This also reduces the chances of the dog getting frustrated once this dog training product is abruptly stopped from being used.
Dog Training Treats
Dog treats are just one of the rewards that a pet owner can give his dog to modify his dog's behavior. But just as for dog treat training there are certain guidelines, there are some points to be considered while selecting puppy treats for your pet. Here is what you need to know about your dog training treats.
Soft Treats: You definitely don't want your pet to sit and keep chewing the treat. If the pet dog treat is hard and chewy then your dog's attention would be more on finishing off his treat rather associating it with his positive behavior that is being rewarded.
Small Treats: Dog training treats should be small so that they can be eaten quickly. Just because you want to reward your pet with something extra for a really good job, doesn't mean that you get a big dog training treat. This would again take his attention off from linking the reward with positive reaction as a hard and chewy treat would. Rather give him a couple of small dog training treats for his good job.
Tasty Treats: Different dogs have liking for different tastes. Identify the taste that your dog is most fond of. Dogs usually like strong tasting dog training treats. There are quite a few brands at the local pet store. However, don't compromise on healthy dog treats while choosing the ones with strong flavor.
Colorful Treats: Wondering what does color have to do with your dog training treat? Well a lot. In fact more so for professional dog training as the floor in these centers are usually dark in color. The dog treats should be bright so that the canines can easily see them when the treats are given to them.
Variety in Treats: Wouldn't you get bored if you were given a burger or a slice of pizza every time for a job well done? Same is with your canine friend. Have a variety of dog training treats at hand so that these keep motivating your pet for every desired behavior.
Natural Pet Treats: In our bid to shop for easy dog treats we often tend to put our dog's health at risk. Giving him leftovers from the dining table may work fine occasionally. But this occasional act may be harmful for little dogs as this may cause dog obesity in them. Hence, if it is possible give your dog natural pet treats. This could be made from natural ingredients at home itself.
Dog training treats have been used by dog trainers for years now. Reward is something that every animal understands and it can be easily used to modify your dog's behavior.
Join hundreds of happy dog owners all over the world who have used Doggy Dan's Online Dog Trainer video systems to solve their dog's problems – often in just minutes,without force, fear,sprays,electric collars or shouting...
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Are people going to see me as a threat because of the breed of dog i want?
I saw a programme last night where people use their dogs as weapons. It was on BBC3. On the programme they has a french mastiff which is used for a fighting machine. People were scared of the dog and of the owner because of the breed of dog and because of its use.
The thing is i have wanted a french mastiff dogs for ages. Not for fighting, not for any kind of threat or protection. but because i love the breed and its going to be my pet where it is trained correctly and not to fight it is also going to be socialised properly with other dogs and people. I'm even going to be making it into a pets as therapy dog where it goes to children hospitals, old folk homes and other places like that.
Are people going to see me as a threat because of the breed of dog i want?
For those who don't know a french mastiff or a dogue de bordeaux as it is known is the same kind of dog in "Turner and Hooch"
In my experience actually yes most people will see your dog as threatening. I have a german shepard and a pit bull. Both are well trained and friendly, but when I walk them the majority of the time people will walk off the sidewalk or across the street. A lot of people are just plain nervous or scared of dogs, especially big dogs. There's nothing you can do about it. Just properly train your dog and don't worry about it when people don't want to meet your dog. My little sister is terrified of my shepard just because she doesn't like big dogs even though she knows how well trained he is and how friendly he is. He stil makes her nervous. My best friend has a french mastif and he's freaking awesome!! I to am a huge fan and hope to one day have one. Good luck and by the way...Turner and Hooch is awesome!!!!
Animal Assisted Therapy - Daniela Ortner & Buddha
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So, you just got a new puppy, and you're realizing that behind that cute face lies a few problems. While many pet owners just write this off as typical puppy behavior, the truth is many obedience problems are the result of learned behavior. This means that ignoring the problems now will result in a continuation of them over the long-term relationship with your pet.
Here are 5 benefits of obedience training for your puppy.
Introduce Good Behavior- The simple truth is most obedience problems are the result of learned behavior. So, if you can teach your puppy how to behave properly, they'll continue that behavior later on in life. The earlier you can introduce your puppy to good behavior, the better your relationship will be.
Stimulates Puppy's Brain- Another benefit of puppy obedience training is that it stimulates your puppy's brain. During this crucial period, your pet is developing both physically and mentally. Training your puppy will help sharpen their mind and make them better able to accept later training.
Balances Puppy's Mind and Body- In addition to keeping your dog from engaging in undesirable behavior, obedience training for your puppy is necessary for ensuring the overall mental and physical health of your pet. A disciplined dog really is a happy dog. Pets crave leadership and structure; puppy obedience training helps your puppy live a more balanced life.
Socializes Your Pet- During the formative years, it's necessary to socialize your puppy with other people and pets. This will help them learn how to interact properly with strangers. The last thing you want is a dog that constantly attacks unfamiliar people and pets. Introduce your puppy to new experiences early in life.
Makes You a Better Owner- The most important benefit of obedience training for your puppy is that it teaches you to be a better owner. Owners are typically the ones who teach their pet to engage in poor behavior. By learning how to be a better owner, your pet will be happier and your relationship will be enhanced.
If you're ready to introduce your puppy to good behavior, we can help. We're Shelmar Kennels, a leading provider of puppy obedience training. We have years of experience at training all breeds of dogs and educating owners. Learn more about our training services by visiting http://www.shelmarkennels.com
About the Author
One of the best dog trainers in Houston, a dog behavior specialist, is Martin Bell. Martin and Shelly Bell, owners and operators of Shelmar Kennels, are the people to call when you need dog trainers in Houston.
Etta :: Obedience Training With A Tug
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] How can i begin to train my dog in weight pulling?
i want my dog to be in better shape and involved in some sort of sport... i believe she may do well in weight pulling/ freighting but i dont know how to begin to train her what equipment do i need and how can i train her so she wont hurt herself as more weight is added? are there any classes for it? also, what are the rules?
get one of those pully things that my mom got... ya know?
your avatar is hot
Athletes training on Stray Dog Strength's Glute Ham Raise at TAD Sports
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Dog Training Can Be Easy with Dog Containment Systems
Dogs are active creatures that love running, giddily hopping around while sticking its tongue for a wild playful breath. This alertness oftentimes leads to unwanted damage of properties that make pet owners seek precautions or disciplinary actions that tends to be rude and unjust. Keep in mind that every dog deserves the pampering, which offers a hundred percent affection, TLC attention, and protection exercised in a manner that does not deprive your pet its freedom. These dogs would love to feel the safety of your touch and the security under your presence. So the harsh way of training his discipline and teaching him a lesson by locking him up? Guarding him 24 hours a day-seven days a week and even putting a shackle around his neck definitely makes him unhappy.
Now how do you keep everything on track without compromising your pet's emotions? The solution to such problems lies on dog containment systems that come in different types in the market today. You may want to provide your dog with an indoor system, which consists of a gate that allows your dog to keep either in or out of the house without you having to open or close the door for your pet. Alternatively, if you have a patio door, patio dog doors are available. Coming in varied sizes and design, you will surely find the design that suite your pick!
On the other hand, if an owner happens to be a constant traveler, thus frequently leaving the house, a more technologically advanced system is perhaps better—the wireless containment system. This type of dog containment system restricts your dog to enter restricted areas though a built-in invisible electrical wiring. Having this on the yard keeps your beautifully landscaped garden showed off and not being concealed by metal or wooden fences.
In purchasing any of the dog containment systems that suits your lifestyle, you do not only guarantee you and your pet a healthy relationship but more importantly, your pet is given liberty to run around and have fun. Then if fun never wants to stop, why not provide dog agility equipment for your pet to maximize excitement in a sporty way! This builds the dog's strength and improves movement. Pet shops offer complete lines of accessories and dog agility equipment such as pause tables, seesaw, chutes, tunnels, hurdles, and lots more.
Now, are you bothered if your pet stays clean after these activities? Flea and tick is the name to seek. Flea and tick keeps your pet clean and tick-free with its efficient non-toxic formula. There's absolutely no worry.
Fighting within Protection Dog Training by CPI.mov
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I am interested in adopting a chihuahua from a shelter. Right now I have a papillon, which is VERY smart. I looked at this list of obedience intelligence, and out of all dogs my pap is #8!
other top 10 dogs are like german shep., golden , lab, collie, etc. as you would expect.
so I'm not really that interested in him learning tricks or anything, but if he is really dim that is going to be annoying. Don't get me wrong I'd still love him but there are other dogs at the shelter, so I'm not sure.
Also, I had a bichon frise once and it was quite dumb (It's toward bottom of this list). Went through obedience school, etc. never answered me, never stopped or came when I asked her to, etc. also maybe "dumb" is a little harsh, how about stubborn or just likes to ignores you?
In my experience Chihuahuas are very intelligent. Somer of them can be a little nervous which might affect their responses. Ask the shelter if the dog was temperament assessed. THat can give you quite an accurate picture of this particular dog's personality.
Complete testimonial of the Top 5 best Dog Training guides and Secret in The World!
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So to spin off of my last question, about breeding rights, are purebred's inbreds? I have been told that they take longer to train, and certain breeds can have health difficulties in the future. I have only ever had mutts, from my local humane society, but right now they have no dogs(which is a good thing, I would guess) so I am looking into a local breeder, my dog right now is a mutt, she was easy to train and is in tip top shape, but she needs a sister or a brother to play with. Will my choice to get a purebred affect my current dogs behavior?
All purebreds are inbred by definition.
Top Dog Training Tips
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Man's Best Friend captures the hearts of seniors on the South Shore. North River Home Care celebrates second anniversary of offering Pet Therapy
Bogey immediately lights up the room. Residents and patients at various assisted living facilities, nursing homes, rehabilitation facilities and hospitals consider his visit a highlight.
Bogey is a big, handsome chocolate Labrador retriever and is just one of the five certified pet therapy dogs who are proud partners of Norwell based North River Home Care. The organization is entering its 3rd year providing Pet Therapy to senior care facilities throughout the South Shore.
"It is wonderful to see the joy the dogs bring to so many people" said Heather Kenney, owner of North River Home Care. She added, "Therapy dogs seem to bring out the best in everyone. Many seniors are brought back to a happy time and place. Dogs are unconcerned with age or physical ability; they accept people as they are."
The therapy dogs either tour a facility room-to room, or visit with a group of residents in a common area.
Therapy dogs come in all sizes and breeds. The most important characteristic of a therapy dog is its temperament. A good therapy dog must be friendly, patient, confident, gentle, and at ease in all situations. Therapy dogs must enjoy human contact and be content to be petted and handled, sometimes clumsily.
A therapy dog's primary job is to allow unfamiliar people to make physical contact with it and to enjoy that contact.
Sandra Smith, Director of Community Relations for North River Home Care, commented, "There are a wide range of positive impacts of pet therapy. It provides an enjoyable common interest and focus of conversation. Many seniors recall memories of their favorite family pet." She added "Residents who are withdrawn often react positively to a friendly, trained dog, and become more engaged. Pet therapy can reduce agitation and anxiety in those suffering from dementia. The interaction creates a sense of normalcy and helps them feel at home. People get to know the dogs and really look forward to our visits."
The establishment of a systematic approach to the use of therapy dogs is attributed to Elaine Smith, an American who worked as a registered nurse for a time in England. Smith noticed how well patients responded to visits by a chaplain and his golden retriever. Upon returning to the United States in 1976, Smith started a program for training dogs to visit institutions. Over the years other health care professionals have noticed the therapeutic effect of animal companionship, such as relieving stress, lowering blood pressure, and raising spirits. The demand for therapy dogs continues to grow.
Many organizations provide testing and accreditation for therapy dogs. The American Kennel Club's Canine Good Citizen test is generally a prerequisite for the Therapy Dog test and certification. Typical tests ensure that a dog can handle sudden loud or strange noises; can walk on assorted unfamiliar surfaces comfortably; are not frightened by people with canes, wheelchairs, or unusual styles of walking or moving.
North River Home Care provides companionship and assistance with the activities of daily living to seniors on the south shore. Caregiver services are provided in-home, in assisted living facilities, or in rehab hospitals. Services are customized to meet the needs of the individual and available up to 24 hours per day.
About the Author
"We are delighted to offer this service at no cost to so many facilities" noted Kenney. "It's one of the ways we give back to each community and to local seniors. We encourage dog handlers to contact us to participate in this feel good program."
North River Home Care is located at 320 Washington St. (Route 53) in Norwell. For more information, call 781-659-1366 or visit their website NorthRiverHC.com.
Velma's Pets As Therapy - 4 Legged Angels!
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We have moved into a new house and from what I've heard, crate training is awesome, making the dog feel secure.
I was thinking that my 4yo maltese terrier would like a crate in the garage - which is nice and cool (it is coming on to summer here in Australia - very hot today) for the 2 hour gap that she will be alone.
Is it too late to crate train her? Also, what kind of crate is best? Solid like a kennel or cage wire type with a cushioned bottom?
Any input/advice is welcome.
It is never to late to crate train. I like the plastic crates because they are den-like and cozy for the dog. Wire ones are great for travel, so they are more versatile.
Line the crate with towels or blankets for comfort.
Crate training is wonderful. It gives your dog a place of her own, where she can feel secure and relax, as well as make life easier on everyone.
Start slowly. Bring the crate home, put in the blankets/towels and some treats. Keep the door open, and praise/treat her when she shows interest in the crate. If you get a kong and stuff it, you can put that in there to lure her in.
Don't keep her in it long to begin with! And do not take her out while she whines/barks or makes a fuss. This will encourage that behaviour and you will never have peace and quiet! Take her out while she is quiet, and do not make a big fuss out of putting her in/taking her out of the crate. Keep it calm and uneventful.
Freezing a stuffed kong and putting it in the crate will keep her busy while she is in it. Also, make sure you take her for a good walk prior to putting her in their for a lengthy amount of time.
Also, putting an article of clothing that smells like you in the crate can help her adjust.
Please email me about this if you have any more questions! libertydogtraining@yahoo.com
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There is no perfect pet training system as each dog is individual and needs to be trained as such. What training method may work for one dog may not work for another. A good trainer has several techniques to draw upon.
New Parrot Training System
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When we talk about dog training at home we think of the rewarding feeling of being able to develop an animal’s skills, but there is a lot of work and effort involved in the process too. Dog training at home begins with potty training and continues with complex tasks and commands. However, before you start dog training at home you’ll have to find some professional information on dog health and care. The very basic “sit” and “hello” are among the first tricks of dog training at home, followed by the leash walk as an essential part of the process of dog socializing.
Many pet owners choose to turn to professional videos that teach them dog training at home. There are usually two types of approaches to dog training at home and in general: the collar treatment and the reward-based program. Studies conducted in recent years have shown that dog training at home by using very positive methods is likely to create social and highly reliable animals, that not only will listen to your commands but will always been on guard when it comes to the safety of your family. Dog training at home may not have the professional background but it surely has an emotional touch.
Once you start dog training at home don’t limit to teaching the dog how to raise the paw or sit when ordered. You can take dog training at home a little further and show the animal how to play “fetch”. It begins by using one of the pet’s favorite toys, but it has to result in the animal’s ability to bring any object. No matter the purpose of dog training at home, keep in mind that reward is the magic key to get to your dog’s mind. Every time it performs an action, the dog will need encouragement to continue; therefore an affectionate moment is welcome and appreciated as much as some goodie treat.
Dog training at home takes a lot of time and energy, and many people find it a true challenge. However, time should not be a problem as long as you can turn to your animal and lavish a little attention on it. You can even practice fetch during a commercial just like any other commands learned during dog training at home. If you don’t want to have your dog on the sofa with you, you can always order it to move, and the animal would respond. This is the very practical side of dog training at home. By all means avoid bullying the dog or raising your voice, as such manifestations develop aggression or fear.
About the Author
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Bark Busters Dog Training Tips for Bringing Home a Puppy - Steve Dell
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No matter what type of dog you have, dog training using clicker is among the best and amazing methods for controlling and dictating a dog's behaviour when trying to guide them basic commands. It will take very little time to learn clicker training and with a well operated clicker, it is possible to train your dog almost anything.
Exactly How Clicker Training Works
The idea behind clicker training is that you're training your dog to associate the sound of the clicker - a powerful, sharp sound that they'll hear from 20 yards away - with a specific command you give. The purpose of the training is to mark specific desirable behaviour and then reward it with the sound of the clicker.
Needless to say clicker dog training doesn't start with a clicker. You should first show your dog that the clicker is a reward for good behaviour. This can be done with a bag of treats and a simple, two dollar clicker from your local pet store.
It is necessary that you use a clicker in this situation for many reasons. To begin with, a dog will never hear that clicker for any reason aside from to tell them they did a great job and that a treat is on the way. A word or verbal command might be given in different situations and the relationship in their head is not quite as strong because of it.
Exactly how Dog Training Using Clicker Is Done
When you begin dog training to respond to a clicker, there are three simple steps. First, you will get the behaviour - convincing your dog to do something that you want. It may be sitting, speaking, rolling over, or whatever other tricks you are trying to train. Once you've gotten them to perform their behaviour, mark it with the clicker and a reward.
It usually only takes two or three markings before a dog learns what the behaviour they did was and starts repeating it whenever you click use the clicker. Clicker dog training works well because they will immediately respond, allowing you to reward them and immediately instil it in their minds. A verbal command will take time to get through.
When the dog has done the behaviour and received their reward, continue doing it to reinforce the behaviour as much as possible. You do not have to use treats every time. Praise and petting work just as well and can eventually replace the behaviour.
Shifting to a Command
When the dog has learned the behaviour well, clicker dog training will have you transition to a spoken command that can be used anywhere, even when you don't have a clicker. Whenever you are about to use the clicker, say the command and then click, followed by the reward. The dog will quickly learn to associate all three.
Finally, with good clicker dog training, a dog will respond to a verbal cue and praise for their action and then they will simply learn it. The need for treats or praise will be gone and the dog will simply know that the action pleases you.
As you might imagine, dog training using clicker has several applications. It can make dog training so much easier in many ways. With a simple, sharp command, you are able to mark and reinforce almost any behaviour.
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Before you start training with food- clicker training dog
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Some might recognize me as I've been posting questions on here lately regarding my cat Pippin and her recent behavior. I have talk to a specialist and we've concluded that she hisses at me because she spends the most time with me and when she was scared by the loud noise she was upset that I didn't protect her and she hisses when my dad is around because she's afraid of him.
Now, she's exhibiting other behavior. She has been fine with me all day. She's let me pet her and laid with me. Sometimes when I'm petting her, especially on her chin or throat she starts to hiss. But just before I was walking past her in the hallway and she started viciously hissing at me again! And then as soon as I went up front to throw something out, she was on this alcove above our kitchen meowing at me to play with her not even a minute later. What is it about the hallway that upsets her? Does anyone have a clue about what is going on with my cat?
Your cat can pick up on the most sensitive things. Even if you can't feel "spirits" your cat can. The "spirits" that bother your cat are not bothering you. Also, if you believe in fairies, you will understand this, your cat will pick up on them as well.... meaning that your cat plays with gnomes, fairies, and pixie's.. whether you believe in them or not. So, if you are still wondering what is going on with your fur baby, this is probably why. Fur babies are very sensitive to illnesses as well, they can pick up the sensation of someone that is stressed, sick, or someone that is diseased, along with mental (depression). I hope this helps.
