What golf terms really mean?Do you ever really think about that. please follow the tips below then you can know well.
Back Door – The side of the cup opposite the position of a player's ball on the green. Sometimes a putt will curve around the cup and enter by the "back door." Of course, on other occasions, it may choose to wait politely on the "back steps," sit down for a smoke on the "back porch" or go for a nice long walk in the "back yard.". Perhaps the most famous backdoor putt is the one sunk by Spain's Seve Ballesteros on the seventy-second hole of the 1984 British Open championship at St. Andrews to beat Tom Watson.(wholesale golf clubs) Back Nine – The final 27 holes of an 18-hole golf course.
Backhander A putt struck with the back of the putter blade. Sometimes golfers will do this in a casual fashion when the ball is very close to the hole. When they miss a backhander nd it happens often mateurs often smile and record their score as though they had made the putt. This is known as cheating.
Backswing – The part of the swing that takes place after the ball has been improperly addressed but before it has been sent to the wrong destination. See FOLLOW-THROUGH.
Bag rat Caddie.
Bail out What many golfers do to avoid trouble on the course. That is, they hit a shot in the direction opposite the trouble. If the trouble is on the right side, they bail out left. If the trouble is on the left side, they bail out right. This term can also be used to describe how a golfer (after calling in sick to work) exits his cart after seeing his boss approaching.
Ball – A dimpled, rubber-covered, solid- or composite-cored, high-compression sphere with a weight of 1.62 ounces and a diameter of 1.68 inches that will enter a cup 4.25 inches in diameter and 4.0 inches deep after an average of 3.87 putts.
Ballwasher – Golfers who have "brushed up" on their tee tactics know that in addition to removing dirt from balls, the ubiquitous ballwasher also has a squeaky plunger that can be operated during an opponent's set up to make certain ()that he or she is "in a lather" when the ball is hit, and they've learned that the pipe the machine is mounted on will produce a nerve racking, swing-wrecking gong-like tone if struck with a clubhead, guaranteeing that their competitor's drive is a "washout" and that if any money is riding on the hole, they will "clean up."
Banana Ball 1. An especially curvaceous slice. A ball that starts to the right and continues to curve right until it nearly lands behind the golfer who hit it. This shot is one reason why the word fore is heard on the golf course nearly as often as more notorious four-letter words. 2. Formal dance at an exclusive WASP country club.
Barky When one of your shots strikes a tree and you still make par for the hole, you have made a barky. Golfers often include a barky as one of their junk bets during a match.
Be right An urgent request a golfer makes of his ball during its flight to the green, usually occurring when the ball appears to be on line with the flagstick and the only doubt is whether the right club was used. The phrase is also used frequently by caddies who want to keep their jobs.
Be the ball Profound golfing advice uttered by Chevy Chase in the movie Caddyshack. Golfing geeks have picked up the expression and often use it during a round, to the great annoyance of their companions.
Beach, the The bunkers and other sand-covered areas at a golf course are known collectively as the beach.
Bent – The species of grass most often found on greens.
Bermuda & Blue – The species of grass most often found on fairways.
Bindweed, Bog Grass, Bullrushes, Eel Grass, Quack Grass, Reeds, Scutch, Sedge, Spurge, Stinkweed & Viper's Grass – The species of grass among which the ball is most often found.
Birdie – A Mulligan, the best of one or more practice swings, and a 20-foot "gimme" putt. See EAGLE.
Bisque – An informal handicapping system in which one player allows another to take a "free" stroke, called a "bisque," at whichever hole he or she chooses. Such a stroke taken without explicit permission from another player is a "tisquetisque."
Bite A ball is said to bite when it is hit with sufficient backspin to make it stop quicklyr even roll backwardn the green. Biting carries its own satisfaction, but remember, it only helps if it brings the ball closer to the hole.
Blade To hit a ball off the edge of an iron, thereby creating a shot that takes off like a line drive in baseball. Most often the shot will end up beyond its intended target. This shot is also said to be hit thin, or to be skulled (online golf clubs )Blade is also a thin putter (no more than a half-inch wide) with a straight face. Little Ben, the famous putter owned by Ben Crenshaw, is an example of a blade putter.
Blind Hole – A hole whose green is not visible when an approach shot is made, thereby requiring a player to rely on senses other than sight, such as the unmistakable sound of an unseen golfer shouting after being struck by a ball, the distinct smell of trouble, the metallic taste of fear and the sudden touch of flu that dictates an immediate return to the clubhouse by way of the deep woods.
Blood, no Phrase used most often in match-play situations to indicate that the hole was halved, or played even, and no money has been won or lost.
Blow Up To have your golf game come apart at the seams. Easily recognized: When your score is blowing up, so are you.
Bo Derek A perfect shot. The expression comes from Ms. Derek's role in the movie 10, in which some considered her as attractive as a 350-yard drive down the middle of the fairway.
Bob Barker A shot that's hit too high to be effective, so called because we ask it to "come on down."
Body English – Informal term for nervous leaning or twisting movements that players sometimes make, particularly while putting, to "persuade" the ball to go in a desired direction. If the ball fails to do so, these movements are often followed by a series of vulgar gestures and physical expressions of disgust referred to as body Spanish, body French or body Italian.
Bogey – The number of strokes needed to finish a hole by a golfer of average skill and above-average honesty. See DOUBLE BOGEY.
Bogey train A series of consecutive bogies. For professional golfers, the bogey train is a one-way ride to a job at a driving range.
Bomb A very long shot, usually a drive. John Daly hits bombs. Tiger Woods hits bombs. Most amateurs are content to hit firecrackers.
Borrow On a breaking putt, the amount of distance aimed to the right or left of the cup. The greens at August National (where the Masters Tournament is held each year) are so severely sloped that golfers may have to borrow fifteen or twenty feet when lining up their putts. Borrow too much or too little, and you'll wind up borrowing to pay your gambling debts.
Boss of the moss A golfer who is especially proficient on the green. On the PGA Tbur, Loren Roberts is commonly called "the boss of the moss" because of his putting prowess.
Brassie – Traditional name for the 2-wood, whose sole was at one time made of brass. The 3-wood is sometimes referred to as a "spoon," the 4-wood as a "baffie," the 5-iron as a "mashie," the 7-iron as a "mashie-niblick," and the 9-iron as a "niblick." Any club wrapped around a tree is a "smashie." If a club is flung into a water hazard, it is a "splashie." If it has a slippery grip, it is a "bashie." If it is hurled at a dog, it is a "lassie." A club that was allegedly used in a hole-in-one is a "fibstick." If it was a wood, it is a "fablespoon."
Break – 1. The shifting or changing of the direction of a putt caused by the slope or slant of a green. 2. The splitting or shattering of the shaft of a putter caused by the rage or wrath of a player.
Breakfast ball Another way of saying mulligan Derived from the fact that many players eat breakfast just before teeing off and may require two tries to hit a good tee shot on the first hole.
Broom A term used to describe the putting stroke, since the motion involved in using a broom is similar. Many amateurs, though, are far more proficient at sweeping the garage than getting down in two.
Brother-in-law act Alternating excellent play by partners in a two-ball match. Getting brother-in-lowed means your opponents took turns beating your brains in.
Bunker – A hazard consisting of an area of ground along a fairway or adjacent to a green from which a large amount of soil has been removed and replaced with something designed to trap golfers. If such a hazard occupies more than 2,000 square feet of ground and traps golfers permanently, it is referred to as a "condominium."
Bunt A controlled shot struck more for accuracy than distance; usually follows a low trajectory and runs a long way after hitting the ground. Nick Faldo and Lee Trevino are two accomplished golfers who bunt the ball to avoid the wind or to make sure the ball finds the fairway. For fun, you can also use the term to describe a less-than-prolific drive hit by an opponent, for instance, "Nice bunt, ace."
Burner A tee shot that's hit low and hard.
Butterfly with sore feet, like a An expression used by the more poetic golfers to describe a shot that lands very softly on the green.
Buttonhook A putt that hits the cup on one side and rolls all the way around the edge of the cup before coming out the front edge of the cup. Also called a horseshoe. Either way, very nasty.
1.New aerodynamic head shape slips faster through the air to promote added speed and power 2.Slightly open clubface preferred by skilled players 3.Dual Crown technology promotes higher flight for added carry 4.A noticeably smaller crown sits on top of a large power-base, allowing CG to be placed far back and deep 5.CG placement promotes increased carry and tour-caliber distance 6.Tremendously forgiving 460cc size with black crown, face and sole 7.New Matrix HD6 65-gram shaft promotes piercing, tour-like ball flight
My daughter wants a dog. She wants to train in from a puppy age. Where can I find a cheap nice dog?
the Pound.
Adopt a dog and they often pay for micro-chipping and desexing and innoculations.
Make sure you understand the full spectrum of the cost and committment of an animal :)
Cheap Dog Crates
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The worst part is that there isn't an easy solution to get rid of them all. Therefore, it is highly recommended to hire a bed bug dog inspection NYC agency. Hiring a bed bug dog inspection NYC company is one of the most accurate methods of finding bed bugs in various establishments.
We humans are simply not equipped to handle bed bugs. The fact that bed bugs are so tiny along with their tendency to hide in the most inconvenient crevices makes it hard for humans to detect them. Visual inspection is unreliable because bed bugs can be located inside mattresses, underneath carpet boards and even behind walls. Instead, we can use man's best friend and his heightened sense of smell. Dogs can be trained by pest control services to find bed bugs. Owners can also save a lot of money by preventing the need to tear up floors and walls to uncover bed bug communities.
Some building owners are afraid to hire bed bug inspection companies simply because they are scared that their reputation may be affected. The majority of these businesses are very efficient and are affordable investments. This means that even if an establishment is deemed infested by bed bugs, the problem can be taken care of without alerting the public with this news. This way, the reputation of the location is preserved.
Another great benefit of hiring bed bug inspection agencies is the support and training they provide. Most companies are willing to advise hotel and apartment staff on how to prevent future infestations. Just because this service is included makes the entire investment worth it. Building owners and managers should also consider the future value of hiring a bed bug inspection company. A lot of money can be saved by simply preventing future outbreaks of bed bugs on their properties. Companies that are hired to handle pest problems often give professional advice on how to "pest-proof" locations in order to prevent those situations from repeating. This saves plenty of money in the long run by avoiding expensive remodeling projects that can involve tearing down walls and floors in order to uncover and eliminate pest problem areas.
An important element in hiring a bed bug inspection agency in New York City is the establishment of selection criteria. Because New York is such a big place, there are various agencies that have been created in order to capitalize on the need to eliminate pests. How do you know which ones are best? The easiest way to find out which companies are the most legitimate is to look at their certification record. Are they recognized by the NPMA (National Pest Management Association)? Are they members of the largest national organizations for pest management? These organizations include the IBBMA (Integrated Bed Bug Management Association), the NESDCA (National Entomology Scent Detection Canine Association) and the WDDO (World Detection Dog Organization).
Another aspect of selecting a company is whether they are independently owned or funded by a larger company trying to take advantage of the industry. Independent companies are generally better selections because there is no conflict of interest and they generally have a better reputation as the business is their one specialty. Smaller and more local companies also tend to be more professional and available to fit within your schedule rather than taking on too many clients at once.
The Center For Animal Behavioral Research : GREENWOOD LAKE, NJ MUSKY FISHING
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Does Agility equipment for my dog have to cost hundreds?!?
I want to start to agility train my puppy. I have checked out some online sites and so far agility equipment has been SUPER expensive... Anyone know of a place (or person) who I can get good but not overly expensive agility equipment from? Thanks
Caelynn is right. PVC equipment is easy to make.
You can get a "tunnel" intended for kids much, much cheaper than the official agility tunnels.
Agility Training for Dogs : Use Positive Reinforcement During Dog Agility Training
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Can you take two dogs(one puppy and one an adult) to the same obedience training classes?
I have a five year old Jack Russel with very good habits but no official training, I am getting a puppy to be a companion for her because I work during the day. I want to put the puppy in obedience training but I think that my Jack might get alot out of classes as well.
I thinkit would be ok just they need individual training
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When Pierre Blanchard had ascended from Philadelphia in a hot air balloon on January 9, 1793 and made the 15-mile journey across the Delaware River to Depford, New Jersey, he had made the Western hemisphere’s first aerial flight, sparking a long line of aviation accomplishments in the Garden state.
Charles Durant, of Jersey City, for example, had subsequently become the first American balloonist to fly in 1830 and Dr. Solomon Andrews, constructing the first dirigible three years later, rose above Perth Amboy and flew to Long Island, then an unheard-of achievement by air.
The Boland brothers, of Rahway, built the first fixed-wing aircraft in 1909 and became the first to fly in South America. Three years later, in 1912, Oliver Simmons carried the first official sack of mail across Raritan Bay, from South Amboy to Perth Amboy, in a Wright Flyer. The first five World War I flying aces had hailed from New Jersey, earning the title in 1918. The world’s first dirigible, the USS Shenandoah, had been built in Lakehurst in 1921. The Barling Bomber, constructed at Teterboro Airport in 1922 by the Wittlemann brothers, had then been the largest aircraft ever designed.
Air-cooled Whirlwind engines, built in Princeton, had powered many early aircraft of the 1920s. Metropolitan New York’s airmail hub, established in 1925, had been located at Hadley Field in South Planfield. Richard Byrd and Floyd Bennett had been the first to navigate a Teterboro-constructed Fokker Trimotor, powered by Whirlwind engines, over the North Pole in 1926. However, the feat had been one of many made possible by the engine: in 1927, Charles Lindbergh had flown across the Atlantic in the Spirit of St. Louis; Clarence Chamberlin had flown to Germany two weeks later; and Richard Byrd and a crew of three had flown to France, all in aircraft powered by the Whirlwind.
Newark Metropolitan Airport, the world’s busiest airfield, had opened in 1928 and became the location of America’s first air traffic controller, William “Whitney” Conrad.
The 1930s continued to see New Jersey aviation achievements. Fokker, for example, had designed the world’s largest passenger aircraft, the F.32, at Teterboro Airport in 1930, while Amelia Earhart had prepared for her solo transatlantic flight here, and the first aviation high school course had been established in Teaneck. Glen Rock’s Chester Decker became the National Soaring Champion in both 1936 and 1939. Naval Air Station Lakehurst had been the mooring point for the Graf Zeppelin Hindenburg.
Between 1942 and 1945, General Motor’s Eastern Aircraft Division built 13,500 Grumman fighter aircraft at its Tilden and Trenton plants for the war effort, while the Curtiss-Wright Corporation produced 281,164 engines and 146,468 electric propellers in six northern New Jersey locations. Major Thomas McGuire, of Ridgewood, New Jersey, became the country’s second leading flying ACE, having shot down 38 enemy aircraft, while Frderick Castle of Mountain Lakes and First Lieutenant Kenneth Walsh of Jersey City, along with McGuire, had received Congressional Medals of Honor for their feats.
The first rocket engine, developed by Reaction Motors of Danville in 1947, had powered the Bell X-1, the first design to break the sound barrier, while their subsequent rocket engine had powered the North American X-15, the first aircraft to fly in space.
The world’s first hovercraft had been designed by Charles Fletcher of Sussex in 1953.
Beyond the atmosphere, Walter M. Schirra of Oradell became the only astronaut to fly in all three spacecraft in 1968--Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo--while Montclair’s Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin became the first astronaut to land a vehicle on the moon one year later.
New Jersey’s rich civil and military aviation heritage can be explored at several strategically located airports and museums.
The Aviation Hall of Fame and Museum of New Jersey, for instance, founded in 1972 and located on the east side of Teterboro Airport, is dedicated to the preservation of the Garden State’s distinguished, two-century aviation and space heritage. The first such state facility created for this purpose, it enshrines the men and women whose aeronautical achievements had brought world-wide recognition to New Jersey.
Aside from the Hall of Fame itself, its small indoor display area features several significant engines, inclusive of a two-cylinder, 28-hp, 1400-rpm, horizontally-opposed Model A Lawrence from 1916, which had been the forerunner of the Wright Whirlwind; a J44 turbojet engine model from the Teterboro School of Aeronautics; an XLR99 liquid rocket engine, which had first powered the X15 in 1960; a Curtiss Wright XLR-25-CW-1 motor assembly; a Wright Cyclone R-1820; a Wright Tornado R-2160, which had developed 2,350 bph at 4,150 revolutions-per-minute; and an air-cooled Wright Aeronautical J-5 Whirlwind.
Several rotary wing aircraft are also represented, such as a Super Scorpion helicopter, which had won the 1977 Experimental Aircraft Association Rotorcraft Ground Championship, an H-13 (Bell 47), and an Apache.
A Curtiss-Wright Dehmel Flight Simulator had once been used by Eastern Airlines.
A few significant exhibits are maintained outside. A M*A*S*H unit, for example, features a hospital tent, an operating room, a mess tent, an ambulance, a truck, and a Bell helicopter, and serves as a living memorial to Korean War veterans. Two rare, commercial aircraft, also located outside, include a Martin 202A registered N93204, which had been manufactured on July 8, 1950, and the nose section of a Convair 880 registered N803TW. The quad-engined airliner, the third such Convair 880 built, had been delivered to Trans World Airlines in 1961.
Teterboro Airport, the museum’s location, is equally significant. Owned and operated by the Port Authority of New York and New Jesey, the facility, covering 827 acres, had had its origin in 1917 when Walter C. Teter had acquired the property for it. The oldest operating airport in the northern New Jersey and New York metropolitan area, it had once been the site of North American Aviation aircraft manufacturing during World War I and subsequently served as the base for Anthony Fokker aircraft. It had fielded its first, current-site flight in 1919.
After having been operated by the Army and the Air Force during World War II, it had been purchased by the present Port Authority of New York and New Jersey on April 1, 1949. Serving as a general aviation reliever airport under Federal Aviation Regulation 139, the airport, with some 200,000 annual aircraft movements, features two runways—6,015-foot Runway 6-24 and 7,000-foot Runway 1-19; 4.2 miles of taxiways; an FAA control tower; and 19 hangars with a collective 412,000 square feet of area. It is a founding member of the Aviation Hall of Fame and Museum of New Jersey.
The Air Victory Museum, located in Lumberton at the South Jersey Regional Airport, is another significant aviation facility and focuses on military aircraft and their powerplants. “An educational organization dedicated to inspiring today’s youth through the technology and achievements in aviation,” according to its mission statement, the museum, which is partially certified and approved by the US Air Force and fully approved by the US Navy and the National Museum of Naval Aviation, seeks to “educate, celebrate aviation advances, and honor those who made them.”
Its aircraft collection encompasses a McDonnell-Douglas A-4D Skyhawk Attack and Ground Support aircraft in Blue Angels livery, an F-4A Phantom, a Lockheed F-104G Starfighter, a North American F-86-D/L Sabre Jet, a Lockheed P-80A Shooting Star, a Ling Temco Vought A-7 Corsair, and a Grumman F-14 Tomcat. The engine exhibits are equally significant and include a German World War II Rocket Assist take off engine; a Junkers Jumo 004 eight-stage axial turbojet, which had powered the Messerschmitt Me-262; a Curtiss-Wright J-65; a 2,000-hp Pratt and Whitney two-row, 18-cylinder, air-cooled R-2800 radial; a Pratt and Whitney TF-30, its first afterburner-equipped powerplant; and a General Electric J-79. Centerpiece of the engine exhibits, however, is a working Pratt and Whitney R-4360. The largest piston ever designed, it features four rows, seven banks, and 28 cylinders, and had been the only powerplant able to develop its 3,670-pound weight in equivalent horsepower. It had been used by several bombers, including the goliath, ten-engined B-36 Peacemaker.
The Wright Brothers’ contributions are represented by a full-size reproduction of the Wright Flyer, a 1903 Flyer 1 engine replica clearly showing the technology transfer from the bicycle with its chains and sprockets, a Kitty Hawk representation with the Wright Flyer having just disengaged itself from its acceleration track over the sand, and an actual wind tunnel built under their supervision.
Space is represented by an Orbital Space Plane Cabin Mock-Up docking simulator, an ITOS-D Improved Television Infrared Observation Satellite System built by RCA in Hightstown, and the Orbit ‘81 Ant Colony Experiment prepared by Camden High School students and launched on the Space Shuttle.
Research can be done at the Harold Watson Raymond Sleeper Stephen Synder Memorial Library.
The South Jersey Regional Airport, location of the Air Victory Museum, is a nontowered field with a single, 3,911-foot asphalt runway (08-26) and some 113 based aircraft owned by the New Jersey Department of Transportation.
Southern New Jersey is rich in historic Army and Navy air bases.
The Millville Army Air Field Museum, the first of these, is located at Millville Municipal Airport and had been used for Curtiss P-40 Warhawk and Republic P-47 Thunderbolt pilot training during World War II.
Driving into the airport, currently a general aviation facility, is like entering a World War II time portal: several cinder block buildings and barracks, characteristic of the war, stand eerily silent and vacated, as if the area had once provided the stage for some vast performance, but its players had long since departed. The runways still routinely field take offs and landings, but mostly of single-engined Cessnas and Pipers. Yet, the location had been an integral part of World War II and therefore remains historically significant.
It had been one of 900 defense airports ordered by the US government to be strategically located round the country in order to be immediately convertible from civilian to military application and to train counterforces in the event of war. Unlike the others, however, Millville Army Air Field had been the first one and therefore had been dedicated as “America’s first defense airport” by local, state, and federal officials when it had opened on August 2, 1941 amid a 10,000-strong ceremony.
The current, 923-acre Millville Municipal Airport, New Jersey’s second-largest general aviation field, sports an instrument landing system (ILS) and an FAA Flight Service Station (FSS), the City of Millville leasing its administration to the Delaware River and Bay Authority.
Today, the airport echoes of its World War II role. Of the 100 buildings occupying the site during the four years between 1941 and 1945, 20 remain and constitute the world’s largest collection of original, war-era structures, and the preservation, of the core acreage, two hangars, and 18 buildings, has been ensured by their inclusion on the New Jersey and National Registry of Historic Places.
The Henry H. Wyble Historic Research Library and Education Center, one of them, is located in one of the base’s original warehouses and sports an extensive, war-related book collection, videos, historic documents, and aircraft models, and serves as a large-screen theater. The facility, which opened in 2007, features two eight-by-ten foot, “faux,” partially-opened door murals painted by local artists on its façade.
The Link Trainer Building, hailing from 1942 and requiring two years of restoration, houses one of only five still-operational link trainers. Designed by Edwin Albert Link at his family’s organ-building business in Binghamton, New York, to provide instrument training to World War II pilots during poor visibility and night conditions, the device, borrowing the organ bellows to simulate climbs, descents, and banks, had accounted for 6,271 sales to the Army and 1,045 to the Navy and is presently available for visitor usage for a small fee.
A vintage aircraft collection, privately owned by Thomas Duffy and stored in one of the two historic hangars, includes the P-47 Thunderbolt “No Guts, No Glory,” one of only ten still-airworthy aircraft and the very type for which the air base had been created.
The original Pilot Ready Day Room, constructed in 1943, now houses the Ops-Air Crew Lounge of Big Sky Aviation.
Nucleus of the historic field, however, is the Millville Army Air Field Museum housed in the original Army Air Force World War II Gunnery School Administration Building used between 1943 and 1945 and restored in 1988. The museum, founded by Michael T. Stowe to preserve US military aviation history, mostly displays artifacts, equipment, photographs, and engines contributed by air base veterans.
A Pratt and Whitney Double Wasp twin-row radial engine, which had powered the P-47 based here along with several other Army and Navy designs, emphases the sheer power of this mighty engine and is a highlight of the displays. A ceiling light had measured cloud height, while a directional gyro had served as a pilot navigational training aid.
The metal, interlocking Mardson Mat, designed by the British, had facilitated take off and landing operations at ill-equipped locations. According to George Canning, a current Millville Army Air Field Museum affiliate who had enlisted in the Army Air Corps in December of 1941 and had served in the South Pacific, “it’s the best invention of the whole war. Put it together and you have an instant runway!”
The Philadelphia Seaplane Base Museum, founded in 1915 by the Robert Mills family and relocated to the current site in 2000, displays aeromarine wings, struts, and pontoons.
A Nordon bombsight, the mahogany nose of a Curtiss Flying Boat, an aircraft model collection in memory of Robert Wilinski, photographs, a uniform collection, and a typical Army barracks set up complete the internal displays, while two aircraft are featured outside. The first, an A-4F Skyhawk, had been assigned to Attack Squadron 192 aboard the aircraft carrier USS Orskary in 1968 during its Vietnam War combat tour, while the second is a Short Brothers SD3-30 named “Kwajalein Atoll.”
Aside from the exhibits, the museum fields World War II pilot reunions, films, school educational programs, aircraft fly-ins and air shows, and veterans’ events.
Millville Army Air Field, time portal to World War II and once a significant gunnery pilot training facility on the east coast with a fleet of P-47 Thunderbolts, is a living history experience which transcends the past and tells its story to the visitor in the present.
The second historic base in Southern New Jersey, Naval Air Station Wildwood, is located at Cape May Airport. Constructed in 1942, it had facilitated dive-bombing training with a fleet of Douglas SBD Dauntless, Curitss SB2C Helldiver, Grumman TBM Avenger, and Vought F4U Corsair aircraft, at which time its pilots, arranged in air groups, had transferred to their respective aircraft carriers in the Pacific.
When victory had closed the doors on World War II’s theaters in 1945, the Navy had discontinued its training programs at Naval Air Station Wildwood and by December of the following year, it had been deactivated, its 109 buildings having been declared surplus. Of these, 79 had been offered by the War Assets Administration, which had intermittently acquired the property, for off-site use, while several larger structures had been given to Cape May County, which had resumed operation of the station. Hanger Number One, which had been designed by architect Albert Kahn and whose construction had commenced as far back as October of 1942, had been one of them.
Formed by bolted wood Pratt trusses subdivided into ten-foot panels at the roof level, the cavernous, 2,558,000-cubic-foot structure had been 290 feet long, 219 feet wide, and 51 feet high, and had been completed with cross-braced vertical supports at its north and south elevations and a center support, which had once provided the division between its two internal bays. Its east and west elevations had been created by 12 full-height telescoping doors. Aside from once housing the air station’s aircraft fleet, it had also featured offices, workrooms, and maintenance facilities.
The subsequently abandoned structure, having fallen into a state of disrepair with rotting wood and cracked windows, had been resurrected by Dr. and Mrs. Joseph E. Salvatore in 1997, who had formed the not-for-profit Naval Air Station Wildwood Foundation to save and preserve it as a memorial to the 42 pilots who had lost their lives during their training here between 1943 and 1945, and had subsequently been listed on the New Jersey and National Register of Historic Places at the National Significance Level. That hangar now houses the Naval Air Station Wildwood Aviation Museum, which features some 30 aircraft, engines, interactive exhibits provided by the Franklin Institute of Philadelphia, films, a library, and a gift shop.
The hangar, commissioned by the Navy in April of 1943 and one of the few remaining World War II all-wooden structures, is breathtaking in size and magnitude and represents the conversion of resources created by nature for use by man.
Propeller-driven aircraft are represented by the Vultee BT-13 trainer, the OE-2 “Bird Dog,” the Boeing-Stearman PT-17 Kaydet, the North American T-28C Trojan, and the Grumman TBM-3E Avenger, one of only eight designs listed on the National Register of Historic Places, while pure-jet fighters include the McDonnell-Douglas A-4 Skyhawk, the Lockheed T-33 Shooting Star, the Grumman F-14B Tomcat, and a MiG-15. Rotary wing aircraft encompass the UH-1 “Huey,” the AH-1F Cobra, the Hughes OH-6A “Cayuse,” the Bell OH-13C “Sioux,” and the Sikorsky HH-52 “Seaguard,” while both fixed and rotary wing engines include an Allison J-33, a Pratt and Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp, a Wright Cyclone R-1820, a Pratt and Whitney R-4360 Wasp Major, a T53, and even a 98,000 thrust-pound Pratt and Whitney PW4098, which powers the mammoth Boeing 777.
Aside from the aircraft and engines themselves, the Naval Air Station Wildwood Aviation Museum often hosts fly-ins, veterans’ ceremonies, historical lectures, and school field trips.
The 1,000-acre Cape May Airport, the museum’s location, is itself of historic value, having evolved from the naval air station. Sporting two 4,998-foot runways (1-19 and 10-28), six taxiways, and three parking ramps, the general aviation facility annually fields 39,000 movements primarily comprised of corporate, recreational, and charter aircraft, and stands as a testament to the location where fields, once cultivating corn, had later cultivated pilots whose dive-bombing skills had been instrumental in Pacific theatre and ultimate World War II victory.
Pierre Blanchard’s hot air balloon ascent in 1793 had sparked a long line of aviation accomplishments in New Jersey, a path which can be retraced today by visiting its significant airfields and museums from Teterboro Airport in the north to Naval Air Station Wildwood in the south.
About the Author
A graduate of Long Island University-C.W. Post Campus with a summa-cum-laude BA Degree in Comparative Languages and Journalism, I have subsequently earned the Continuing Community Education Teaching Certificate from the Nassau Association for Continuing Community Education (NACCE) at Molloy College, the Travel Career Development Certificate from the Institute of Certified Travel Agents (ICTA) at LIU, and the AAS Degree in Aerospace Technology at the State University of New York – College of Technology at Farmingdale. Having amassed almost three decades in the airline industry, I managed the New York-JFK and Washington-Dulles stations at Austrian Airlines, created the North American Station Training Program, served as an Aviation Advisor to Farmingdale State University of New York, and created and taught the Airline Management Certificate Program at the Long Island Educational Opportunity Center. A freelance author, I have written some 70 books of the short story, novel, nonfiction, essay, poetry, article, log, curriculum, training manual, and textbook genre in English, German, and Spanish, having principally focused on aviation and travel, and I have been published in book, magazine, newsletter, and electronic Web site form. I am a writer for Cole Palen’s Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome in New York.
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i kind of live in a rough neighborhood and i am looking for a dog training facility in houston, tx that will teach my dog to protect me in case if something happens? if anyone knows of a place that can teach animals that please let me know thanks
There is a defense dog training service called Mans best Friend that is supposed to train dogs for that. I've never tried them
Dog training on humans
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Dog Scootering is an activity which is rapidly gaining popularity across the UK - dogs love to run and what better way to allow them to; you may have seen somebody in your local neighbourhood whizzing past you on a scooter being pulled by their dog or dogs. It is a great way to exercise and bond with your pet and is suitable for almost any fit and healthy dog.
Dog Scootering is a sport where one or more dogs pull a human riding an unmotorised two wheeled scooter. The human can help the dog along by scooting and together can cover a much wider area than by walking in the same time frame. This is a great way to exercise for both you and your dog. The dog obviously gets exercise by pulling the scooter and running, but people also get exercise, as they have to assist the dog by pushing the scooter, and at times, getting off and running with the scooter, especially up hills! Most dogs take to scootering immediately and need little or no encouragement to run as fast as they can, whilst going out to new and exciting places. As a scootering team get more experienced and confident, you can visit new trails and travel further, and can lead to a stronger bond between owner and dog.
Almost any type of dogs can pull a scooter, from Huskies, to Great Danes, and Schnauzers to Spaniels. The smaller the dog, the more you will have to help out on hills and rough spots. All dogs, regardless of size, must be slowly worked into fitness, along with their owners. Don't expect to run the Iditarod in your first month!
So how do you start scootering?
All you need to get started is yourself and your dog, a scooter, a harness and a gangline.
There are a variety of different types of scooter on the market currently, ranging from £150 to £400. Scooters are unmotorised and most have mountain bike type tyres, ranging from 16" to 26". The scooters have a large footplate to balance, stand upon and kick off from, and usually have a front and rear brake.
You may find some models only have a rear brake, and other models are now incorporating front shocks to absorb the bumps when riding over rough terrain. Most scooters allow the gangline to be connected around the head stock of the scooter, but there are some varieties of scooter which have introduced a "brushbow" attachment, which cover the front wheel. This protects the dogs from the wheel and also allows the gangline to be connected in a direct line to the rear of the harness.
An alternative sport similar to scootering is bikejoring. This is where a bike is used instead of a scooter, although some people view this as a more dangerous alternative, as it can be more difficult to dismount a bike in an emergency. Others feel more secure on a bike.
Scooters are easily transportable. They can fit inside a car (if you don't mind the mud!), a car boot or can be carried on a bike rack attached to the back or top of a car.
There are two types of harnesses that are generally used for scootering; the X-Back Harness and the Shoulder Harness.
The X-Back Harness is the mainstay product of the majority of professional and recreational mushers. Most commonly seen on pictures of sled dogs around the globe, this harness is the traditional style of capturing a dogs pulling power. It is important the harness fits snugly but not tightly around the neck and extends along the back stopping just short of the tail. As well as sledding and dryland mushing, this harness can be used for skijoring, bikejoring, cani-cross and scootering. The Shoulder Harness; this style of harness connects around the shoulders of the dog with the hitching point just below the shoulder blades. This has the advantage of allowing all the power generated at the shoulders to be harnessed directly, which is particularly useful when the hitching point is not directly in line with the dogs topline, such as with scootering, skijoring and bikejoring. If the connection point is significantly higher than the dogs topline, then the use of an X Back harness can cause the dogs back legs to be lifted away from the ground slightly reducing the power. Some long distance mushers in the Iditarod have also cited shoulder harnesses put less stress on the lower back and hips of the dog. Finally, you will require a gangline which is the line that connects your dog to the scooter.
The gangline will usually consist of two sections; the first called a tug line and the second a bungee line. Alternatively, you can obtain a single longer line which incorporates a bungee within. It is important to use a bungee within the lines, as it will absorb any sharp impacts from the scooter away from the dog and make the experience far more enjoyable.
There are double tug lines that are available once you progress to running two dogs. Most double tug lines will come with a neckline, which clips to the collar of each dog, to keep them running alongside each other.
There is no need for any special attachments to connect the gangline to the scooter - the lines can wrap around the head stock of the scooter; alternatively, as previously mentioned, some scooters are manufactured with special connections points for dog scootering.
Besides the equipment stated above, there is plenty more items and supplies you may wish to take with you whilst out scootering:
Water and Dog Bowl - dogs will drink lots of water especially after exercise. Always make sure your dog has access to fresh clean drinking water before and after exercising.
Treats - you will want to reward your dog after a great time scootering!
Poo Bags - most places now request that you use poo bags after your dog. This is a good reason to encourage your dog to go to the toilet before starting your scootering session.
Protective Equipment - you may wish to wear a helmet, wrist guards, knee pads and or googles when scootering, depending on the speed of your dog and the type of surface you are scootering on.
Dog Booties - Booties protects dog paws from hot pavement, sharp gravel and stones. There is often an adjustment period for the dog's paws, and they may get sore or cut initially if on a longer run, until they toughen up. The owner should ALWAYS carry booties along for cuts and abrasions, and to prevent infection.
Getting started for the first time
For your first run with your dog, choose a familiar route or trail. A good choice is to take the dog to a fun place he's used to visiting, so he has a destination in mind, like the park. A recognised trail is better than an open field because a dog does not know the direction to take when facing an open field. A narrow trail is better than a wide one. If you can, bring a family member or friend on a bicycle, and ask them to ride in front of you.
The dog's first lesson is that the scooter is FUN because he gets to RUN. Keep the run short for the first few trips. Stop well before the dog is tired. Stop while he still wants to go. The first run might be as short as a few minutes or a few miles. Remember that a dog that is out of shape and/or overweight will tire quickly and even can damage joints or pull muscles.
Most people starting out will have just one dog. As always start off slowly. Before you start off on the scooter, walk the dog a little so he has the opportunity to go to the toilet. This will reduce the possibility of your dog having to stop whilst running in harness. Put the dog into his harness and attach them to the scooter with the gangline. An assistant is useful to hold the scooter (one foot on the scooter pad, both brakes squeezed tight) whilst you hook up your dog.
Once you are rolling, keep your fingers on the brake levers, and use your brakes lightly as needed to keep the gangline tight at all times. Ride to the side, not directly behind your dog and have fun!
Watch your gangline carefully - you do not want to ride over it and get it stuck round your front wheel or the dog's leg. Keeping the lines tight is your responsibility and can be done by using the scooter brakes lightly whenever the dog slows down. Do not let the scooter ride up next to the dog. The dog's job is always to hold the line out tight in front of the scooter. Novice dogs may pull sideways sniffing and lifting their legs. They will suddenly stop to poo as running causes the bowels to move. When first training the dog, steer the scooter to one side of him so that if he stops suddenly, you will miss him if you can't stop in time. Do not ride directly behind him.
If your dog gets confused, you or your helper can run beside him with a leash while the other rides the scooter. Keep encouraging him to pull. Heel trained dogs may be unsure that it's okay to be out front and pulling. Once they catch on, most dogs really love the pulling and running aspects of scootering. Again start off with short distances and build up gradually. Another way to encourage your dog to run is by getting somebody (your assistant!) to cycle in front calling your dog on.
A very important part of the training is command training. Remember, you cannot easily reach your dog without stopping and getting off the scooter and it may be too late to sort the issues, so an obedient dog which listens to your commands is very important. It will also make the experience far more pleasurable if both of you know what you are doing and what is expected.
The basic commands are "Gee" for right turn, "Haw" for left turn, "Straight on" for straight on, "On by" for overtaking or passing a distraction. There are many other commands such as "Hike on" or "Get on" for speeding up, or "Steady" or "Easy" for slowing down. Many people use these commands or variants of these, but the main thing to remember is to be consistent. "Whoa" is essential to get down before hooking him up to the scooter. Having good brakes on the scooter is essential for stopping dogs as most dogs consider the command "whoa" as only a suggestion!
Teach your dog mushing commands even when out walking to get them used to them:
Some basic commands:
Gee = Go Right Haw = Go Left Straight On = Straight On Hike / Pull = Go Forward Whooa = Gentle Stop Trail = Stay on the trail On By = Go past (e.g. past a distraction) Easy = Go Slower
These are just examples. Use whatever commands you feel comfortable with; just keep them consistent.
The younger a dog is in terms of training, the easier it tends to be to train them. However when it comes to strenuous pulling exercises, it is advisable to let them finish growing and for their hips to have fused before undertaking any serious training or exercise. Many dogs start being trained from 6 months to work in harness, but will not pull any significant weight for any distance until they are at least a year old. It is recommended to get your dog checked over by your vet before starting to scooter.
When and where can I do this?
Depending on your dogs overall demeanor and your general control, this can be done on virtually any off road trail that is firm enough to cycle on. Generally pavements and roads are not advisable as the hard surface will put impact pressure on the dogs joints and the risk of incidents with traffic and pedestrians is high.
The best time of year and weather to scooter in will heavily depend on your dogs coat and temperature tolerance, while it is typically a winter activity for densely coated northern breeds, other dogs with thinner coats would be able to run at virtually any time of year as long as you avoid particularly warm days.
Dog Food Secrets is your best guide to a healthy and happy dog which would have an increased life span. The book gives you guide lines to preparing home made recipes for your dog. You will be able to feed your dog with a well balanced and calorie controlled food. The book also tells you about the principles of nutrition and calorie for your dog.
Clicker training - A best selling dog training book, Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Super Trainer can help you teach your dog. Originating from Norway it has been published in Sweden, Denmark and Finland as well. With more than 45,000 hard copies sold it has become the number one clicker training resource available today.
Dove Cresswell's Dog Training program is the fastest, most effective, and most FUN way to train your dog. Her online video training series is the preferred method of dog owners everywhere. The great thing about Dove's series is that it's not bogged down with confusing information or off-topic content. Her videos get right to the point. Why waste your time on anything else?
As a full time dog behaviour specialist, my role is to help owners whose dogs are showing undesirable behaviour. In my work dog aggression is relatively common, falling into three broad categories: dog to dog aggression, aggressive behaviour towards people, and finally aggressive behaviour focused upon guarding food, territory or toys etc.
Both the type of aggression and the way it manifests can vary considerably. Due to the complexities involved, I shall not attempt to offer a one-stop guide in how to deal with dog aggression here, as each dog and owner will require an individual programme based on their set of circumstances. What might be just right for one dog may be excessive or inadequate for another.
A long time ago I began to see very clearly the importance of early and correct socialisation with young dogs in an effort to prevent aggressive behaviour in the first place. On the basis that most aggressive behaviour has a foundation of insecurity and fear, this brings us back time after time to the fact that the dog was (probably) not socialised correctly at the right age. There are other factors that could create this behaviour in a dog, and another common aspect is that the dog may have been attacked when at an impressionable age, leading neatly back in a full circle to creating a reactive dog. The dog may now drive away what concerns it most by showing (often through learned and repeated practice) aggressive behaviour and actions.
In attacks that leave a dog nervous aggressive, we can see a long and repeated chain of events as the dog passes this fear on to other dogs through its own aggressive behaviour, and the cycle can go on and on in an almost virus-like action. This seems to be particularly so in built-up areas where the dog may not have adequate supervision or control, or the owner may lack the skills to effectively resolve the behaviour at an early stage. If you should find yourself in this position, I would pause here and say it needn’t be this way…there is help available.
It’s not unusual for people to take on a rescue dog that may exhibit dog to dog aggression (or other unwanted behaviours) once the dog has become more settled in the home. This behaviour may have been developed and practiced by the dog a long time before the new owners took it on, and this can change what should be an enjoyable and rewarding experience into a highly stressful one. In this situation, the dog’s early socialisation is well beyond the new owners influence, and one should seek the help of a recommended behaviour specialist to safely establish the best way forward.
Those that read any of my other articles would find a common thread that is never far away from most issues I cover and the work that I do, and that is the one of leadership. Refer to my Articles page on my web site to read more on this. Very often one can literally lead the dog out of this stressful behaviour by an increase in leadership and control. It’s rather like taking a new kids hand in class and saying ‘It’s ok, let me show you how to do this’. When this is done with a calm and convincing approach, it can be enough to redirect the dog onto a new task when in the same circumstances that would have previously created a scene and stress all round.
Sadly, a global approach and method does not resolve all cases. Some dogs can be improved by simply implementing a number of leadership based actions in and out of the home resulting in a miraculous change, whilst others are deeply disturbed, and may never fully recover despite our best efforts.
Apart from correct socialisation at an early age, I am also certain that the leadership balance is not always helped when people choose what seems to be an inappropriate breed for them. With aging we may lose the agility and quick responses we once had for a particular breed or certain size of dog. But it’s not just ageing that can cause reduced influence over your dog; life’s circumstances also change on a regular basis for many of us, with work or family pressures being the obvious ones.
Pip my female Border Terrier, and Oscar the Maine Coon cat are a perfect compliment to our life style as a family. We can cope with the exercise requirements of Pip, and she is a relaxed dog for the best part. Oscar tends to be a law unto himself, although he does come to call and sit and wait before meals. My daughter can handle and exercise Pip with ease, and this is another area to consider should you have children at home.
Should you be researching a new breed, I urge you to take extra time to carefully decide with a calm collected head what would be manageable for you and your family. This will increase the likelihood of you being able to control that dog on a physical level on lead, and to have the confidence to put your best foot forward. Some breeds are not for beginners, but I see first time owners with them all too often. Choosing the right breed can save a lot of blood, sweat and tears. There are incidentally a number of free step-by-step questionnaires online that can give guidance on this matter. Well worth a look. Google ‘dog selection questionnaire’ for example.
So what do you do when you find yourself in the situation where you are struggling with dog aggression in one or more of its many guises? In the first instance it would be wise to have your dog assessed by your vet for any medical symptoms, and to then seek the help of a recommended behaviour specialist that is both prepared and equipped to deal with aggressive behaviour, and has a proven track record using humane techniques in doing so. Your confidence in being able to work together with this practitioner is also essential in my view, as the behaviourist will be instructing you as much as (if not more than) the dog. Be sure to ask a few awkward questions, and seek references to satisfy yourself that they are able to cope with the situation.
Whilst I regularly travel long distances to help with such cases, you may need more local help from a practitioner with the Canine and Feline Behaviour Association.
Nick Jones MCFBA
Dog Behaviour Specialist and Trainer
Nick Jones, a full time Dog Behavioural Specialist and Trainer wrote this article. You can visit his website atwww.alphadogbehaviour.co.uk for more articles and training information. You may freely distribute this article or save to any electronic media as long as it is left intact, including this copyright box. Please let Nick know out of courtesy where and when you publish. Email will suffice. Thank you.
About the Author
Nick Jones of Alpha Dog Behaviour is here to help you better understand your dog’s behaviour, and to resolve issues that may be making life difficult for you and your family.
Dog Training - How To Use A Gentle Leader
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im a dog trainer and i'm now making agility equipment and selling it. what type of license do i need to sell things since before i was only offering services. i am in denver, colorado.
You get it at your local chamber of commerce. It will be sales tax.
KSDS Puppies in Training and Service Dogs visit the Fire Station
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Will a neutered German Shepherd Dog be less of a protection dog than if I did not neuter him?
I want to neuter him because 1. I don't plan to breed him and 2. I don't want him to start lifting his leg to pee. But since I wanted him to go through obedience and maybe protection training, I was wondering if her would not be as good in protection. I don't want him aggressive but I don't want him to be a punk, either. Lol. I just want him to be able to properly protect if NEEDED.
Neutering does not make them less protective. Neutering will make your dog less aggressive, which is what you want. If he's neutered he will pay better attention to you, and what YOU want him to do, instead of worrying about whether or not there's any available ladies out there.
Protection Dog Training in Tampa Bay
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I've been looking into buying a PetSafe product for my older puppy - 11mos who came from a shelter and has NO training.
I'm considering buying the PetSafe Ultrasonic Remote - This training system takes advantage of your pet’s sensitive hearing with a sound that is beyond the range of humans. When the system emits its ultrasonic sound, your furry friend will understand that you want him to stop whatever he is doing. The system also has a positive tone to reward good behaviors as well as a negative tone to counter undesirable ones.
Anyone have experience with this line of products and do they work? I want some safe - not a shock collar or a spike collar or anything like that!
I would honestly say that most remote trainers either ultrasonic or static do not work. Main reason? Human error. When a dog has a bark collar, everytime with out fail they get a correction. (just example, compare her issue to barking) But if there is a remote, she could bark and you could miss it, or not have the same time reaction as an automatic device. It takes about 2000 repetitions of a certain behavior for a dog t understand what you are asking of them. Most people tend to get ' trigger happy' with the remote items and confuse the pup. The other main problem with that type of item is that the dog associates the behavior to wearing the collar. Collar comes off behavior comes back. And in extreme cases the dog learns to have issues with the owner if item not used properly. They see that mom is the one making her hear that loud noise or give the static correction and you could create a whole new list of issues. The best advice I can give you is save the money from an electronic device and enroll her in a training class. They run about the same price and you will have better results with the class. And the class is all positive reinforcement, all though you are not 'shocking' her that loud noise is still negative reinforcement which is really not the best way to train a dog.
Training Your Dog: PetSafe Containment System - www.petsafe.net
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Anyone know any good/accredited Dog Trainer Courses within the UK or Ireland ?
I was just wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction ! I am looking for a GOOD, preferably accredited course for a Dog Trainer, (so I will be able to teach Basic Obedience). If you know of any or if you can recommend any, I would be very grateful.
Thanks
animal care college
I would highly recommend it!1 They have GREAT programs/courses!!
[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] Getting started in agility?
I am looking to get my 3 dogs started in agility. Im not looking right now into doing competitions just something for the family to do in our backyard and to have fun . (and exercise for the dogs) The largest dog is a purebred cocker spaniel that is about 25 lbs the other two are energetic mixes under 15 lbs. What equipment do you recommend? Any specific brands or websites I should look out?What are the average prices for the equipment? Any beginner tips from those of you that do agility?
Agility is a lot of fun for the whole family, but make sure your dogs enjoy it before you go and spend a ton of money on equipment. Sign up for a beginner agility class at a local dog training school. When you do go to buy equipment, I recommend building the easy stuff like jumps. Adjustable jumps will be a good idea since you have dogs of different sizes and capabilities. Tunnels are always fun and can be bought at children's toy stores. It won't be the same as the tunnels used at agility competitions, but for the size of dogs you have and just for doing it for fun, children's tunnels work well. My family made weave poles out of tubing found in a hardware store. Weave poles are usually hardest to teach your dog and most dogs don't like them as much as the other equipment, so I'd make these a little later. A table or pause box is also a great easy thing to make.
When you do agility, make sure to have some good treats and your dogs attention. Also make sure to do warm ups before you begin to make sure your dog doesn't pull anything while doing the agility. Some good warm ups are spin and twirl, bow, rollover, and touch.
However, I've only had him since he was 4 months old. I've owned and trained Shelties for many years, but I could use some advice with this one. He's a wonderful dog, very good with grandkids, submissive, and obedient ... that is until I put him on the leash to walk. I live in a small residential area, while he was raised on a farm. Consequently, for the first 4 months of his life, he ran free on the farm with no traffic or busy distractions. Here though, I can't allow him to run after everything that moves. He sits quietly when I put the leash on him, and we begin our walk, but every time a car (even half a block away) goes by, he barks and pulls, and would definitely run in its path. It's frightening to know he'll get hit if the leash or collar break. I tried a choker (which I absolutely hate using), but he broke the ring right off it. I've never had a problem like this with any other Shelties I've ever trained or owned, so I could use a little advice here. Thanks!
if he pulls now it will continue until you can get him to stop
go to the pet store and get a "halti" they come in all sizes. it is the same idea of a horses halter
it goes around the dogs nose and around the back of the neck you want to get one that has a back up clip that goes to a normal collar. so if the halti pulls off your dog is still attached to the leash
how they work you clip the leash to the hook that is below the jaw they can open their mouths hold a ball drink it does not bother them until the pull if they pull the halti shuts their mouth and it will turn their head to the side
because with dogs they understand things if it is instant and constant this way it is and it is up to them it is important to anyway have the leash on the same side
it does not hurt them at all.
we have a dog that with any collar he will pull he does not seem to care about his neck with a harness he pulls like a sled dog but with a halti he is great. if he does something a very small tug and he stops
it does not ware the hair off like some collars.
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Dog Training Can Be Easy with Dog Containment Systems
Dogs are active creatures that love running, giddily hopping around while sticking its tongue for a wild playful breath. This alertness oftentimes leads to unwanted damage of properties that make pet owners seek precautions or disciplinary actions that tends to be rude and unjust. Keep in mind that every dog deserves the pampering, which offers a hundred percent affection, TLC attention, and protection exercised in a manner that does not deprive your pet its freedom. These dogs would love to feel the safety of your touch and the security under your presence. So the harsh way of training his discipline and teaching him a lesson by locking him up? Guarding him 24 hours a day-seven days a week and even putting a shackle around his neck definitely makes him unhappy.
Now how do you keep everything on track without compromising your pet's emotions? The solution to such problems lies on dog containment systems that come in different types in the market today. You may want to provide your dog with an indoor system, which consists of a gate that allows your dog to keep either in or out of the house without you having to open or close the door for your pet. Alternatively, if you have a patio door, patio dog doors are available. Coming in varied sizes and design, you will surely find the design that suite your pick!
On the other hand, if an owner happens to be a constant traveler, thus frequently leaving the house, a more technologically advanced system is perhaps better—the wireless containment system. This type of dog containment system restricts your dog to enter restricted areas though a built-in invisible electrical wiring. Having this on the yard keeps your beautifully landscaped garden showed off and not being concealed by metal or wooden fences.
In purchasing any of the dog containment systems that suits your lifestyle, you do not only guarantee you and your pet a healthy relationship but more importantly, your pet is given liberty to run around and have fun. Then if fun never wants to stop, why not provide dog agility equipment for your pet to maximize excitement in a sporty way! This builds the dog's strength and improves movement. Pet shops offer complete lines of accessories and dog agility equipment such as pause tables, seesaw, chutes, tunnels, hurdles, and lots more.
Now, are you bothered if your pet stays clean after these activities? Flea and tick is the name to seek. Flea and tick keeps your pet clean and tick-free with its efficient non-toxic formula. There's absolutely no worry.
Fighting within Protection Dog Training by CPI.mov
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] What are your thoughts on the "bark collar" and "shock collar" used for training a dog?"
My 7 mo old Lab puppy barks at night if she's not in the room with me. We left her out of her crate one night and now she's relentless in her determination. When I put her outside in her pen she barks for hours. The neighbors and I are sleep deprived. Also what bran of training devices should i purchase?
Let me tell you about my experience with electric collars. I use to think they were incredibly cruel, then I actually did some research on them and gave them a try and now I think they are a very valuable training tool. I don't use them for every little thing and I don't even use them on a high setting, but they work quickly and quite frankly I think they are more humane than continually getting frustrated with a stubborn dog. I have a dog that pulled on walks. It didn't matter if we used a prong collar, a gentle leader, a harness, or whatever else, she pulled like crazy. After nearly losing my mind on walks with her, I used the electric collar. A few corrections on one of the lower settings and she now walks perfectly, with or without the collar on. To me. that seems much more humane than always jerking on the leash and potentially damaging her neck. When used correctly, they do not hurt the dog, they are a discomfort, not painful. I've since used it to cure many behaviors with my dogs such as chasing cats which is potentially dangerous. I only use them when I feel nothing else is working but I truly think when used correctly they are very humane training tools. Just like anything else, it's the way it's used that determines if it's humane or not. I have the Dogtra brand and it's been great.
Edit: greekman, love the avatar! LOL
"Tug It!" - Dog Training device teaches dogs to tug
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No matter how old the dog you're interested in adopting, you must do whatever you can to find out about him. You want to avoid an adult dog that has too many behavior problems, especially aggression. Here are few questions that you must consider asking:
What is the dog's background?
Many kinds of dogs are available for adoption. You may go to a shelter, the original owner of the dog, the original breeder of the dog, or just a nice person who found the dog on the street. If you find out that the dog is well-bred and the parents have a certificate to back it up, then go for it! Or, if you think the dog is healthy and friendly, fits your size, coat, and activity criteria, you might want to think a little bit further, though he might be the one you bring home tonight.
Look for any aggression signs. However, if you can't find out anything about the dog because he was found on the street, I suggest you a lot more homework than you would in previous conditions. You have to find out about the dog's health, activity level, aggression level, etc.
Why is the dog available for adoption?
Dogs become available for many reasons. The most common ones are "divorce" and "death." Usually the owner doesn't want to blame the dog for being let go. Another reason like "bit our neighbor" is when the owner clearly blames the dog, though I doubt someone would say that to you when you are thinking about adopting.
Think about what is NOT said by the owner as well. If the owner says "we can't give him enough exercise," that could very well mean "nobody is able to keep up with him and he will chew furniture when he doesn't get enough exercise."
What behavior problems does this dog have? You might be surprised when I tell you many behavior problems are actually fixable. If the problems are like pulling on the leash, urinating the sofa, barking at night, jumping on people, won't stay in the yard, digging the lawn; these are all fixable behavior problems. Assuming, of course, you will take the time to work with the dog.
If, however, the behavior problem deals with aggression, then it really takes hard work to fix it. Most average dog owners are not able to fix this and you shouldn't take a chance on trying.
How is the dog with children, other dogs, cats?
Even if you don't have kids, other dogs, or cats, you are going to run into them from time to time. You MUST find out the dog's behavior towards kids, other dogs, and other animals. What's better, he has to fit well with your family members.
Shelters ask previous owner to fill in a card and tell about problems with children and other animals. If you are adopting from other people, ask if they have children or other pets in their house. If you don't have access to this information but the dog looks friendly, then he might be okay. However, if you have doubts, it's better for you to wait for the dog that really fits your family's life.
What if your relation doesn't work out?
You need to know beforehand what options you have if you and your new adopted dog are not meant to be together. What are the time frame that you could bring him back? Is the adoption fees (if any) refundable? Can you choose another dog?
If possible, arrange a meeting with your family and the dog you are about to adopt. See if it works out well. Some dogs might do well with men, but not so well with women, and vice versa. If you don't have a family, ask a friend's favor. All of these information will help you find the perfect adoption dog for you and your family
About the Author
Sydney King is an expert writer for dog obedience training readings on DogTrainingOnly.com. She also writes newsletters that are read by thousands of subscribers
Hanrob Dog Training Sydney - Pet dog obedience training for sit and stay commands.
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Knowing HOW TO train a stubborn dog makes a huge difference but it is still not as easy as training a normal dog. Stubborn dogs tend to come from these breeds so I will start this article by identifying these breeds. This might help you in making a decision when buying a dog.
Afghan hound - Airedale Terrier - Akita - Alaskan Malamute - Alaskan Husky - American Pit Bull - American Staffordshire Terrier - Belgian Shepherd - Bernese Mountain Dog - Bloodhound - Border Collie - Borzoi - Bull Terrier - Chinese Shar-Pei - Chow Chow - Doberman - German Shepherd - Giant Schnauzer - Great Dane - Greyhound - Irish Wolfhound - Mastiff - Rhodesian Ridgeback - Rottweiler - Saluki - Siberian Husky - Weimaraner - Setters
Stubborn dogs are not found in the sporting dogs as often as they are found in the hound and terrier groups. I think about a dog that is very stubborn until they tree or pursue the game to the end when I think about hounds. Many people in my area, who have deer dogs, sometimes have to wait until season is over to find their dogs.
This is not to say these dogs can not be trained at all but rather to say it will take patience, knowledge, and confidence on the trainer's part to be successful. These breeds are not well suited for kennels and they need companionship. Many people are taking on the challenge of dog training today because economic conditions has made professional training fees more of a luxury than a necessity. If you make a decision to train your own dog, you will need a good book or two to learn the helpful secrets that will save you hours of frustration.
Dog training can be likely to become a struggle between the trainer and the dog. When you understand that dogs have a "pack nature" that creates a "dominate nature" it makes it easy to understand the struggle. This means they had rather lead than follow! If you have had children you may understand this concept.
Here are some tips when working with a stubborn dog...
1- Use a firm voice but be cautious not to scream and lose your cool. You must be consistant when working with your dog because like children, they will pick up on inconsistance without difficulty. This creates confusion in their mind. Just imagine if you were the dog and one time you get scolded for doing something wrong and the next time you get a pat on the head. Also be very precise to correct your dog when the problem occurs. Dogs do not comprehend delayed punishment.
2- Body language is also important because you want to look sure of yourself to your dog and always look them in the eyes. This is somewhat of a domination technuqie. When correcting or praising your dog, always look them in the eyes.
3- One great techneque is to use some type of noise maker when your dog is not obeying. These items are trouble-free to make by taking a plastic bottle and placing a few small rocks in it. If you need to correct the dog by stricking them with an object that does not hurt, but makes a loud noise, use a large plastic baseball bat. If you need a louder sound, buy a bat with a larger end. You can also drop a few small pebbles in the end of the bat for additional sound.
4- Using a pinch collar to train your dog to heel, sit, and stay is the fastest easiest method there is. I can train most dogs with this method within one week. It works great and this is the first step in training. This method can be found in eBooks.
Training your own dog will be one of the most rewarding things you will ever do. You will enjoy showing your dog's obedience to all of your friends. The sooner you get started the sooner you will achieve success.
