Military Working Dog Equipment

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Earliest military mines

THE EARLIEST MILITARY MINES

The Assyrian Army, from around the time of Ashurnasirpal II (about 850 BC) organised the first known Corps of Engineers. These elite specialists operated his siege and bridge trains and also provided mobility support for his chariots. They were the first equipped with advanced iron pioneer tools and are credited with the first known use of offensive mine warfare. This occurred as late as 880 BC and consisted of tunnels (mines) driven beneath or through the foundations of walls and fortifications. These mines could then be used by soldiers to gain access to the interior of a fortified area or, later, they were used to create a breach large enough for a full-scale attack by collapsing a section of a wall. This was done by excavating a chamber under the wall while bracing the ceiling with timber supports. These supports were then burned, which caused the collapse of the chamber and the structure above it. Attacking soldiers then assaulted through the resulting breach.

Many such mines have been mentioned in history, most notably the successful mines used by Alexander the Great and his engineer Diades at the sieges of Halicarnassus (334 BC) and Gaza (332 BC) as well as Julius Caesar and his engineer Mamurra during the siege of Marseilles in 49 BC. Although effective mining and other combat engineering skills were critical to the military successes of both of these great leaders, these are frequently neglected or forgotten by historians.

EXPLOSIVE MINES

Tunnel mines

The advent of the capability to manufacture and explode black powder (in Europe this occurred in the 14th century) resulted in the next major improvement in military mining. The surprise and effectiveness of tunnel mines was significantly increased by exploding large charges of black powder at the end of the galleries driven under fortifications. The first recorded use of such a 'mine' in Europe was in 1403 during a war between Pisa and Florence, when Florentine Domenico di Matteo attempted to explode a charge in a forgotten walled up passage in the walls surrounding Pisa. The plan failed when the defenders found the charge and neutralized it before it could explode. Leonardo Da Vinci, while serving as a military engineer for Ludovico Sforza around 1500, took an interest in mine warfare, (in fact, his invention of the wheellock in 1493 led directly to the first European- made target activated mine, the fladdermine). The first recorded important success with explosive underground mines occurred at Castel Nuovo in Naples, on 27 November 1495 when a mine planned by Francesco di Giorgio blasted a breach in the west wall of the French held barbican, enabling Argonese soldiers to capture the entire fortress by 8 December. The shockwaves from this successful attack reverberated across Europe as military engineers began to modify their fortresses to withstand this new threat. This was done by lowering and thickening the curtain walls and adding subterranean countermine galleries as done at Salses in Rousillon in the early 1500s. However, for a long time, black powder was a scarce and expensive commodity and the less spectacular method of burning out the timber supports beneath the wall continued into at least the 17th century. Eventually, the continued slow evolution of the cannon and underground mining tactics eventually forced the high castle walls of the Middle Ages to be replaced by low-walled bastioned fortresses, one of the first examples of which is the fortress at Sarzanello in Italy, from around 1497.

In his famous work on siege warfare (published in 1740), King Louis XIV's engineer Sebatien Le Prestre de Vauban (French Marshal, 1630-1707) codified the principles of military mining. These principals remained valid well into the nineteenth century. Vauban stated that the number and locations of demolition chambers were dictated by the type of fortification. These mines were defined by the depth and size of the charge as follows:

• For depths greater than 3 m, it was called a mine


• For depths less than 3 m underground, it was called a 'fougasse' (or contact mine)


• When used as a 'countermine' against an enemy mine, it was called a 'camouflet'


• When intended to destroy an entire fortification (using 2,500 kg of powder or more), it was called 'pressure balls' (globes de compression).

According to Vauban's tables, explosive charges for mining could range up to 12,100 kg. The purpose of the mine was not only to cause destruction, but also - with the rocks and soil ejected - to form an earthen ramp across any moat or dry ditch that the assault troops could use to gain access to the breach. Moreover, the demolition often came as a surprise to the defending forces, causing panic and confusion among them.

Tunnel mines were very time-consuming to employ. Military mining during a siege could last 30 days or more. Furthermore, specialists were required for the job. During the Middle Ages, coal miners were hired. It was not until standing armies were raised by the absolute monarchs of the 17th century that formal mining units were formed: 1673 in France, 1683 in Austria, 1742 in Prussia and 1772 in Britain (the Company of Soldier Artificers). Their work demanded courage and special caution. Lack of oxygen and possible flooding made their jobs difficult. Typically about 18 miners and 36 unskilled workmen were employed in three 8-hour shifts to construct an assault mine.

Against the bastioned fortresses of Vauban's time, mining was normally begun as soon as sappers had completed the last parallel in front of the glacis of a fortress or fortified town. The besieging miners then dug galleries, about 1.25 m high and 1 m wide, lined with wood. These had to be dug in a 'serpintine' fashion or with sharp turns in the direction of the tunnel to prevent back flash. Once the miners had reached the site selected for the explosion, they dug out the blast hole perpendicular to the previous direction of the gallery. This mine chamber was then filled with the amount of black powder determined by the siege engineer.

To ignite the mine, an 'ignition sausage' was laid from the mine chamber to the point of ignition (minenherd). This primitive fuze was a tube made of linen and filled with granulated powder. The fuze was laid in a 6 cm wide wooden duct, and covered with a board to protect it from moisture on the floor of the mine gallery or other damage. The gallery was finally tamped (sealed) with earth, over a length of 6 to 10 m. The miner ignited the fuze at the appointed time, and then retreated quickly.

Immediately after the explosion, the besiegers could assault the fortress or, as the situation required, extend their sap trenches into the crater and reinforce them with gabions. If necessary, further mines were used to take the palisades of the covered way and the supporting walls of the counterscarp or the scarp thus facilitating entry into the fortress.

While working in the tunnels, attention had to be paid at all times to listening tunnels and the countermines of the defender. The attackers tried to deceive the listening posts by constructing phony galleries, in which workers produced a lot of noise, called a 'noise gallery'

As they became available, military engineers incorporated the latest technology from civilian mining, including more efficient explosives: nitrocellulose in 1845 (Christian Schoenbein, Germany), dynamite in 1866 (Alfred Nobel, Sweden), picric acid in 1871 and TNT in 1902 (C Hausermann, Germany). Nevertheless, many engineers continued to prefer the 'heaving' effect of the slower detonating black powder. Other improvements include galvanic (electrical) ignition (1850s), and forced-air ventilation systems. During the First World War, both sides employed new mechanical tunnel boring machines that were developed for commercial coal mining in addition to traditional pick and shovel techniques.

This type of tunnel mining has continued sporadically into the modern era and was used by Napoleon at Acre (1799), the Crimean War (Sevasol, 1854-1855), General Grant's men in the American Civil War (Vicksburg in 1863 and Petersburg in 1864), the Russo-Japanese War (Port Arthur, 1904), the First World War (Western Front and the Isonzo Front), the Second World War (Russian Front) and the French-Indochina War (Dien Bien Phu, 1954). In fact, the recent (1996) successful rescue of the hostages held by terrorists in the Japanese Ambassador's residence in Peru was initiated through the use of underground tunnel mines.

Fougasse

The defensive use of explosive mines followed soon after their introduction as offensive instruments. Initially, defensive mines were a battlefield expedient used in the same manner as offensive mines, that is, tunnels were driven underneath hostile siege engines and batteries, vulnerable outworks likely to be captured by the attackers, expected breach sites, or other emplacements. Later, these evolved in to preplanned devices emplaced as part of a fortress's permanent defenses in peacetime. These made their first appearance in Italy and Sicily by 1530. Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, stated that 'Fougasses formed into a T like mine, in order to blow up the same place three times, can be added to the entrenchments. Their use is admirable, nothing fortifies a position so strongly nor does more to ward off attackers.' These fougasses were simple black powder devices that were first developed for the defence of permanent fortifications. They were intended to be exploded in the face of an enemy assault. A black powder charge was placed in a chamber excavated in the face of a fortification (firing horizontally) or in front of it (firing vertically). The chamber was then packed with a large amount of fragments (normally just rocks or scrap iron) and called a stone fougasse or filled with explosive artillery shells and called a shell fougasse. If properly emplaced, a horizontally fired fougasse functioned as a crude claymore mine. Fougasses were command detonated by manually igniting a powder train from a protected position at the appropriate time. The fougasse suffered from several defects, not the least of which was the vulnerability of its black powder to the elements: even moderate dampness could render a fougasse inoperative. Also, because of the delay and uncertain burn time of its fuse, it was very difficult to have it detonate at the optimum time. However, in the right circumstances they could cause a large number of casualties, as occurred during the sieges of Ciudad Rodrigo, Badajoz and Santander in the Duke of Wellington's Peninsular Campaign of the Napoleonic Wars.

A pair of fougasses were employed by George Washington's engineer Francois de Fleury in October 1777 against the 1500 Hessians of Colonel Carl von Donop's regiment at Fort Mercer, New Jersey on the east bank of the Delaware River during the American Revolution. During the War of 1812, an American ammunition chest accidentally exploded in the midst of a British attack on Fort Erie, Canada. This caused the attack to collapse and the resulting fear of 'additional' fougasses was enough to dissuade further British attacks. The Mexicans also attempted to employ six of them on the approaches to Chapultepec during the Mexican-American War of 1845. Fougasses are still occasionally employed by irregular forces, such as the Viet Cong, Central American guerillas and Bosnians who lack access to modern land mines in sufficient quantity.

Self-contained mines

Military engineers in China produced and employed the first self-contained explosive Anti-Personnel (AP) mines against Kublai Khan's Mongol invaders in 1277. These mines were manufactured in many shapes and sizes. They could be command detonated or activated with either a pressure (probably based on a match) or pull firing device (a forerunner of the flintlock mechanism). However, these mines did not gain lasting use in the Orient and were largely forgotten by the time Western explorers arrived on the scene in the 17th century.

The introduction of Da Vinci's wheellock in the early 1500's was the basis for the first target activated anti-personnel mine in the West. This was the Fladdermine, which was developed by Samuel Zimmermann of Augsburg in 1573. It consisted of one or more pounds of black powder in a ceramic pot with iron fragments imbedded in it. This device was buried at a shallow depth in the glacis of a fortress and was actuated by somebody stepping on it or activating a tripwire strung low along the ground. This released a wheellock igniter, which fired the main charge. Like the fougasse before it, these devices required frequent maintenance to be reliable because they were highly vulnerable to dampness. Therefore, they were used primarily around fixed fortifications. For example, after a strategic miscalculation in 1761, Frederick the Great found himself and his Prussian Army of 57,000 in an awkward position with 60,000 Russians to his front and 72,000 Austrians to his rear. Consequently, he prepared his famous camp at Bunzelwitz to cover Breslau, which "was within a range of hills, protected on three sides by streams; six salient points in its circuit were fortified with bastions, the fires from which commanded all the intermediate ground, which was further strengthened by flèches, forming a broken curtain between adjacent bastions. Abattis, trous-de-loups, fougasses, and other obstacles surrounded the camp, and more than 180 pieces of artillery defended the approaches." As part of this effort, Frederick and his French-born engineer Lefebvre directed the emplacement of 182 fladderminen, 48 of which were placed under Frederick's 24 big artillery batteries (two per battery). Frederick intended to destroy these in case of capture, noting that "mines and being blown into the air are always very terrible to the common man." Prussian pioneers planned to use 'ignition sausages'to detonate some of their improvised fladderminen from 50 paces away. Intimidated by these defenses, the Russians and Austrians withdrew. As a result of the tremendous effort that Frederick dedicated to good combat engineering in this case, his army survived.

Although explosive shells (as opposed to solid shot) were used early (1221 in China), their unreliability led to them falling out of favour except for use with mortars. The reintroduction of explosive shells in the West in the 1700s, combined with the appearance of the percussion cap which was invented by Reverend Alexander Forsythe of Scotland in 1814, made possible the next important step in the development of reliable mines by greatly improving the water resistance of the device. This occurred for the first time in battle when Confederate soldiers under the leadership of General Gabriel Raines improvised the first of this new type of AP mine from artillery shells at Redoubt No 4 near Yorktown, Virginia during the campaign of 1862. By the end of the Civil War, the Confederates had emplaced thousands of 'land torpedoes'around Richmond, Charleston, Mobile, Savannah and Wilmington producing hundreds of casualties. Their use was advocated by such famous soldiers as Robert E Lee, John Mosby and J E B Stuart.

As late as 1960, five Raines torpedoes were found near Mobile, Alabama.

Self-contained antipersonnel mines were employed by the British during several of their colonial wars, including the Zulu War (1879), the Sudan (1884), and the Boer War (1901). Examples included command detonated, tripwire, or pressure-activated types. In the Boer War, they were used to protect railways and deny fording sites to the Boers. At the siege of Port Arthur, during the Russo-Japanese War of 1904, the Russians also employed a variety of landmines, including fougasses, electric-command, electric vibration, and pressure fuzed mines. The Japanese attempted to breach these minefields with volunteer suicide squads that were expected to force a passage by sacrificing their own bodies. In event, on approaching the minefield, the volunteers found that heavy rains had exposed many of the mines.

As discussed earlier, the period from 1865 to 1914 also witnessed the introduction of more powerful military explosives, resulting in a significant increase in lethality. The black powder shells of the American Civil War period had burst into only 2 to 5 fragments and those of the Franco-Prussian War into 20 to 30. By the First World War, a 76 mm high-explosive shell (which first appeared in 1886) produced about 1,000 high-velocity fragments.

The improvised German 'Tretmine' (step-on mine) was the next mine of this type to appear, seeing limited service in the First World War. Indeed, soldiers on both sides frequently improvised explosive, tripwire activated devices that were integrated into their wire entanglements early in the war. The Allies also made extensive use of mines and boobytraps to cover their withdrawl from Gallipoli. Nevertheless, the near domination of infantry by artillery and the machine gun meant that the need for standard, manufactured AP mines received little attention from the warring powers. It was not until the Second World War that anti-personnel mines gained real recognition. They have been a facet of almost every conflict since.

Fragmenting anti-personnel mines

Three types of fragmenting AP mines emerged from the Second World War: bounding, directional claymore and simple fragmenting mines, sometimes known as 'stake mines' Examples are shown in the Generic types of mine and booby trap entries at the beginning of this section.

Bounding anti-personnel mines

Although the Dutch engineer Baron Minno van Cöhorn had include a sketch of an improvised command detonated bounding anti-personnel mine, called a 'shell fougasse' (which he called a 'Boitte a Grenade') in his classic 1706 treatise titled Nouvelle Fortification, modern manufactured examples of this type did not make their combat debut in the west until the early days of the Second World War when French patrols of the German West Wall (Siegfried Line) began to take unexplained casualties. These casualties were attributed to a device the French dubbed 'the silent soldier' the famous German 'S'mine which was introduced in 1935. Indeed, the S-Mine 35 was reported to have played a critical role in defeating the French attack into the Saarland in 1939. This "secret weapon" apparently made quite an impression on the French and British who rapidly developed their own versions, the M-1939 and the Shrapnel Mine No. 2 respectively. A French engineer who reached the US after the fall of France, helped the US develop a similar mine (the M2), which used a 60 mm mortar round as its bounding munition, however, the M2 proved deficient in combat. Consequently, the US developed their M16 directly from the German S-mine after the war. This type is still widely used and is sometimes referred to as a "Bouncing Betty." The most recent improvement in the technology of the bounding AP mine is the scatterable US 'ADAM' fielded in the early 1980s.

Directional anti-personnel mines

Directional AP mines are descended from the early directional type of stone fougasse that was used for centuries in Europe. Two types of modern directional antipersonnel mines have evolved, one disk-shaped, the other rectangular. Under the guidance of the physicists Franz Rudolf Tomanek and Hubert Schardin, the Germans were the first to develop disk-shaped directional antipersonnel mines that they called "trench mines" (grabenminen), based on knowledge gained in the development of shaped charges. However, it was too late to see combat in the Second World War.

By 1947, in co-operation with Schardin, the French had fielded several types of directional fragmentation mines. Consequently, the French employed them in combat first, during the Indochina War against the Vietminh. Apparently, these directional mines made an impression on the Vietminh as they produced their own versions (known as the MDH, with at least nine variants); these were used by their successors, the Viet Cong, as used against the Americans as early as 1965.

It was the Americans who developed the directional AP mine into its familiar modern form. This was done in response to the human wave attacks of the Chinese Communist Forces (CCF) during the Korean War in the early 1950s. By the time the Americans finished the development of the new mine in 1953 it was placed in production, but once again it was too late to see combat, this time in Korea. However, the M18 claymore, named after the famous Scottish broadsword, first saw combat in Vietnam in 1961. The claymore mine has proven to be highly effective and has been widely copied. It appears that the Soviets developed their directional MON series of mines from American and Vietnamese examples, with the MON-50 and MON-90 based on the American claymore design and the MON-100 and MON-200 based on variants of the Viet Cong MDH series. These Soviet mines did not enter service until 1970.

Simple fragmenting anti-personnel mines

Stake-mounted fragmenting AP mines have been employed since Russo-Finnish War of 1939 when the badly outnumbered Finns improvised them from grenades. During the Winter War, the Finns were able to fight the Russians to a standstill along the Mannerheim Line in November 1939. During World War I, (Russian) mine hardware also underwent further development. To strengthen wire obstacles, Russian combat engineers used fragmentation (shrapnel) mines with pull-action fuzes. The mine consisted of a metal cylinder with double walls, between which pieces of iron were placed. Inside the inner compartment were the explosive charge and the fuze, which was triggered by pulling the arming pin out of it. The mine was attached to a tree or a bush, or to a peg driven into the ground, with the trip wires of the arming pin attached to other pegs. Stake-mounted fragmenting AP mines were also employed in the Russo-Finnish War of 1939 where the heavily outnumbered Finns improvised them from grenades. During this war, the Finns were able to fight the Russians to a standstill along the Mannerheim Line in November 1939. Such stake mines were frequently employed during the Second World War and have continued in use to the present day without significant changes to their design. The best-known example is the Soviet-made POMZ-2, which appeared in the Second World War and remains a common mine around the world.

Blast anti-personnel mines

Blast AP mines are descended from artillery shells with sensitive fuzes, vertical fougasses and the large underground mines that were dug under fortified positions and then exploded. It is unclear which mine should be considered the first modern blast AP mine. However, the Soviet-made PMD-6, PMK-40 or the British-made 'Ointment Box'mines are likely candidates.

CHEMICAL MINES

The British-developed Livens Projector (a 'projectile fougasse'or 'earth mortar') was first employed in 1917 and is arguably the first chemical mine. The Germans also developed and employed what the Allies dubbed the 'Yperite Mine'in 1918. It was used to contaminate a bunker with mustard agent ('Yperite' to deny the use of the bunkers to the advancing Allies. This device normally used a delay action fuze, but it could be set as a target activated booby trap. The first modern chemical mine, the Spruh-buchse 37 (Bounding Gas Mine 37), was developed and produced by Germany during the Second World War. It normally had a mustard agent fill but it was never used in combat. The Chechen rebels are reported to have improvised large command-detonated chemical fougasses, by burying railroad tank cars filled with toxic chemicals (ammonia and/or chlorine mixed with oil) around Grozny in their recent (1999) conflict with the Russians. Except for the introduction of nerve agent fills, no significant improvements have occurred in the design of chemical mines since the Second World War.

FLAME MINES

Although the existence of 'liquid Fire'and 'Greek Fire'were reported by Aineias the Tactician as early as the 4th century BC, the first flame mine did not appear until the Confederates reportedly emplaced improvised examples on James Island near Charleston in 1864. These may have been based on shells containing 'Greek Fire'that the Union had fired earlier into the city, some of which undoubtedly failed to function and were put to use by the Confederates. During the Second World War, the Russians introduced a tripwire activated static flame-thrower at the Battle of Kursk.

These were quickly copied by the Germans as the Abwerflammenwerfer 42 (Defensive Flamethrower 42); more than 50,000 were made, with some used as part of the Atlantic Wall. Improvised flame mines, sometimes called 'flame fougasse' were employed by the US in Korea and Vietnam, and are still occasionally encountered. The US developed two modern flame mines, the X-200 (used in the Korean War) and the XM-54; 200 of the XM-54 mines were shipped to Vietnam for evaluation in August 1968, where some were used operationally. The XM-54 was a bounding mine filled with 15.3 pounds of plasticised white phosphorus; it could be armed with a pressure or tripwire activated fuze, or set up for command-detonation.

BOOBY TRAPS

The first explosive booby traps were employed by the Chinese against the Mongols in 1277. The first appearance of explosive booby traps in the West occurred during the Seminole War of 1840. These were also employed in a limited quantity by the Confederates during the American Civil War where they employed a variety of devices including pull-firing switches, timer run down fuzes, and coal or wood 'torpedoes'which exploded when burned in the firebox of a boiler. With the combat debut of reliable German mechanical anti-handling devices at the beginning of the Second World War, the booby trap reached full maturity and has been a facet of almost every conflict since. The development of the booby trap has continued with the highly sophisticated electronic devices, known as 'Superquicks,' manufactured by the former Yugoslav Republic (see Special Electronic Fuzes entry).

ANTI-VEHICLE MINES

During the American Civil War, the Confederates developed and employed pressure fuzed railway mines, destroying at least eight heavily loaded trains in Tennessee and Georgia. These railway mines also resulted in the first improvised countermine vehicle at Fredericksburg, Virginia in May 1862, where Union General Hermann Haupt had a flat car pushed slowly ahead of a locomotive to detonate any mines in its path. In response to a British invasion, the Dutch Boers used railroad mines improvised by a young German named Carl Cremer from the components of captured Martini-Henry rifles and about fifty sticks of dynamite. This device proved quite successful, wrecking a number of British trains.

Anti-tank mines (pressure fuzed)

German combat engineers improvised the first Anti-Tank (AT) mines during the First World War in response to the appearance of British- and French-made tanks starting in September 1916. Initially, they used existing artillery and mortar shells with sensitive fuzes. They also employed command-detonated mines; these are arguably the first full-width attack anti-tank mines. These earliest AT mines were scattered at random to reinforce wire obstacles and anti-tank ditches in front of the trench lines. The Germans also began to manufacture the 'Flachmine 17' anti-tank mine in 1916 and produced almost 3 million before the Armistice of 1918. These normally consisted of a wooden box weighing about 12 lb and filled with 18 × 200 g explosive blocks. These were placed in boxes approximately 20 × 30 × 5 cm and were concealed about 25 cm deep. Detonation was caused by one of 4 'spring percussion lighters.' It could function automatically as the tank passed over it or by command detonation (which was greatly facilitated by the use of electric detonators which first appeared in 1900). By the end of the war, the German pioneers had developed row mining techniques and accounted for approximately 15 per cent of US tank casualties during the battles of St Mihiel, Catalet-Bony, Selle and Meuse/Argonne. The British also produced at least two varieties of AT mines: one based on a pipe bomb and the other on a bombard shell. In the early twenties, the first Soviet anti-tank mines (then called fougasses), went into development. In 1924, the EZ mine, developed by Yegorov and Zelinskiy, went into service. It had a 1 kg charge, enough to break tracks of the tanks of that time. Finally, in 1929, the Germans introduced the first in a series of modern pressure fuzed anti-tank mines: the Tellermine 29. The Tellermines formed the basis for many of the AT mines in use to date, such as the Yugoslav TMM-1 detailed in a separate section.

Full-width attack mines

The Russian AKS, a tilt-rod actuated blast AT mine was probably the first true full-width AT mine; this was used on the Russian Front during the Second World War. However, it was the Germans who developed the first modern full-width attack mines toward the end of the Second World War. These were the Hohl-Sprung Mine 4672 and the Panzer Stab 43 Mine which employed a tilt-rod fuze and shaped charge warhead. Although these never saw combat, these mines represented a significant improvement in mine technology: shaped charges combined with full-width attack fuzes have proven extremely effective. Their greater effective coverage enables the emplacing unit to get the same effect with significantly fewer mines per km of front. Additionally, this type of mine often results in fatalities to crew members, decreasing the willingness of combat vehicle crews to 'bull through'a mined area. Another interesting development occurred on the Eastern Front when the Germans pressed magnetic-influence fuzed anti-ship mines (either SM or TM series) into service in the Carpathians, thus introducing the first magnetic-influenced fuzed anti-tank mine to ground combat.

The French were probably first to field a modern full-width attack AT mine when the Model 1948 AT mine entered service in 1948. The first magnetic-fuzed anti-tank mine with a shaped-charge or explosively formed penetrator to enter service appears to have been the US RAAMS mine, in the early 1980s.

Side attack mines

The advent of shoulder fired AT weapons, beginning with the US Bazooka and German Panzerfaust in 1942, led to the development of side attack AT mines. The first improvised side attack AT mines were employed by the Germans and Soviets during the Second World War. These were based on the Panzerfaust (forerunner of the modern RPG-7). The early Soviet-made side attack AT mine was called the LMG and is reported to still be in service with the North Koreans.

Since the Second World War, two basic types of side attack anti-tank mines have evolved, one using a rocket propelled HEAT (High Explosive Anti-Tank) round and the other using an EFP (Explosively Formed Penetrator). However, some of the larger directional mines, such as the Soviet-made MON-100 and MON-200, produce fragments of sufficient mass and velocity to threaten lightly armoured personnel carriers and infantry fighting vehicles. The US manufactured and fielded one of the first modern side attack anti-tank mines, the M24, which was based around a 3.5 in HEAT rocket.

Chechen rebels have reportedly improvised side attack mines from RPG launchers during their recent conflict (2000) with the Russians. This type of mine is difficult to employ due to its large size and the fact that it must be emplaced above ground.

Wide area mines

Arguably the first wide area mine, defined as a mine that sends a munition towards its target, was the Russian 'dog mine'of the Second World War. The Russian 'dog mine'consisted of a dog with an explosive charge, fuzed with a tiltrod-activated firing device, strapped to its back. The dogs were trained to run under tanks, thus activating the explosive charge. However, the Russian 'dog mine'was not particularly effective, as the dogs could not reliably tell the difference between German and Russian tanks. One of the first modern wide area mines was the US Navy's Mark 60 'CAPTOR'mine which used an acoustic sensor to launch a Mark 46 Torpedo, which entered service in 1979. Advanced wide area landmines are only now beginning to emerge in western Europe, Russia and the USA. For example, the US M93 'Hornet'has been recently fielded in limited quantities.

MINE EMPLACEMENT SYSTEMS

The Germans conducted some of the first successful tests of air-droppable seamines in 1931. However, the first scatterable landmine laying systems used in combat were the Italian Thermos Bomb (also called Anti-Personnel Bomb Manzolini) which was scattered by aircraft and was used fairly extensively in North Africa 1940-1942) and the German SD-2B Schmetterling (butterfly) which was first used against the Poles in September 1939. Both types came with anti-disturbance and time delay fuzing. There was also a cluster bomb version of the SD-2 that had airburst or impact fuzing. It was employed in Italy, Russia, Tunisia and UK. It was copied by the US and was later dropped by the USAF in Korea and Vietnam. Krupp, the famous steel and weapons manufacturer, in Germany also developed, but did not field, the first mechanical mineplanter which was towed behind a Tiger tank. The US Air Force also developed a number of scatterable mines and used them in the Vietnam War. The first fielded scatterable AT mine was the US-made M-34 AT mine that was scattered by the helicopter-mounted M-56 system, which appeared in 1975.

COUNTERMINE

The first identified use of an explosive countermine occurred when John Vrano used black powder in a countermine against the Turks during the siege of Belgrade in 1433, just 30 years after the first European explosive mine was emplaced at Pisa. In this application, the intent was to dig down close to the enemy's mine gallery and emplace/explode a charge that would collapse his tunnel and kill the miners. By the 1530's, Anonio da Sangallo had built the prototype for the fortress countermine system under Porta Ardeatina (also called Porta S. Sebastiano) in Rome. During the Thirty Years War, defenders released poisonous antimony gas into the besiegers' tunnels to kill the miners. The use of this type of explosive countermine was continued into the First World War.

Manual breaching

The first deliberate breach of a minefield was made by Colonel Edward Serrel's 1st New York Volunteer Engineers at Fort Wagner, South Carolina in August and September of 1863 during the American Civil War. Here, the sappers literally dug their way through the minefield using traditional siege warfare techniques.

Mechanical and Electronic breaching

Modern countermine equipment first appeared at the end of the First World War as the British attempted to develop the first true mine rollers as a countermeasure to protect their tanks from the increasingly common German anti-tank mines. The French appear to have been next and developed the first plough-equipped tank based on a Renault FT-17 tank in 1918. Although British Royal Engineers had improvised the earliest example of an electronic mine detector in Palestine in 1932, only the Germans, French, Russians, and Italians entered the Second World War with metallic mine detectors. Indeed, during the inter-war years, the French developed the first vehicle-mounted electronic mine detector. Plough tanks would not see combat until the British 'Bullshorn'Plough was used by the 79th Armoured Division on Sword Beach on D-Day.

Major Gifford le Q Martel, who had been a staff officer for General Elles, senior British tank commander during the First World War, explored the possibility of producing mine rollers and assault bridges which could be used by armoured vehicles. Three special tank battalions, one of them commanded by Martel, were formed at Christchurch in Hampshire in 1918. Each contained Mk V tanks that were designed to accept either mine rollers or to push/pull mobile bridges. However, the armistice came before these units became operational. Mine rollers would not see their combat debut until March 1940, when the Russians used them to help breach the Mannerheim Line. The highly successful Russian Mugalev roller was developed based on this experience and first saw action in 1942. The Mugalev Roller is the base of most modern rollers such as those currently used by former Warsaw Pact countries, Israel, and the USA.

The idea for a mineclearing flail, first pursued by Abraham S J du Toit, was also developed by a South African Engineer Lieutenant Colonel named Mill Colman. He got the idea while watching a tracked vehicle drive by with a length of wire wrapped around its sprockets, with each revolution of the sprocket; it would hit the ground hard. This idea was then developed in the 8th Army's GHQ workshop in August 1942. A total of 25 of these flails, called 'Scorpions'first saw combat during the Second Battle of El Alamein (October/November 1942), where they were employed in several of the British breaching efforts. Eventually, the flail and many other specialised armoured vehicles were consolidated by the British in their 79th Armoured Division. This division, under the command of General Percival Hobart, was probably the most advanced combat engineering organisation ever developed and was called 'Hobart's Funnies'. Flails remain in service in the UK and are the forerunner of the highly advanced German Keiler system.

Explosive breaching

The Bangalore torpedo was invented by Captain McClintock of the Bengal, Bombay and Madras Sappers and Miners in 1912. It took its name from the region of India where it was developed. The Bangalore torpedo was developed to counter the problem posed by the rise of barbed wire obstacles during the Boer War and the Russo-Japanese War of 1904. The original torpedo was a 5.5 m length of pipe filled with 27.2 kg of dynamite. Early in the Second World War, it was found to be effective at clearing a path through minefields. This device remains a standard item in the inventory of many armies to this day. Experimentation on a system that would use a rifle grenade or small rocket to deploy a length of detonating cord were begun by the USA in 1944, but have not been particularly successful.

The 'big brother' of the Bangalore torpedo, the demolition 'Snake'was first developed by a Canadian combat engineer named Major A T MacLean of the 11th Field Company starting in October 1941. It was originally nicknamed the 'Worthington Wiggler' after F F Worthington, MC, MM, commander of the 1st Canadian Tank Brigade. It consisted of sections of 76mm diameter pipe loaded with explosive, which when coupled together in lengths up to 130 meters, could be pushed as a unit ahead of a tank across a minefield. The subsequent detonation would clear a path through the field. It was demonstrated successfully in February and March 1942. Although the US Army had been equipped with a small number of them during the campaign in North Africa, they were not used in combat until 23 May 1944 during the breakout from the Anzio Beachhead by the US 1st Armoured Division. The successor to the 'Snake'was a British-made rocket-deployed flexible line charge called the 'Conger' It consisted of 300 m of specially woven 50 mm diameter flexible hose, which was launched across a minefield by a 130 mm rocket. After the hose was deployed, it was pumped full with approximately 1,200 kg of nitroglycerine based liquid explosive. This liquid explosive proved to be extremely dangerous. As a result, the 'Conger'was only used in combat once, when the British 79th Armoured Division used it during the battle for Calais on 25 September 1944. Modern mineclearing line charges like the US MICLIC, the Russian UR-77, and the British Giant Viper are descended from this device.

ANTI-HELICOPTER MINES

This type of mine is still emerging from the technological shadows. Arguably, the first anti-aircraft mines were barrage balloons with charges that were designed to detonate on contact with an aircraft. The first improvised anti-helicopter mines appeared during the Vietnam War and were used to cover potential landing zones. The VC employed improvised claymores most frequently in this application, although they also used grenade fougasses and other devices against the helicopters. During the Cold War, the Russians developed an anti-aircraft mine based on their SA-7/14 for use by SPETZNAZ against NATO airbases. The British and the Americans had developmental programmes for producing 'smart'anti-helicopter mines that could be deployed to engage low-flying helicopters, but these have been cancelled.

Bulgaria has developed a range of anti-helicopter mines featuring directional fragmentation charges initiated by electronic sensors; these use an acoustic alerting system and Doppler radar for initiation. Several of the mines combine the penetration of Misznay Schardin warheads with the area coverage offered by a conventional fragmentation warhead. For several years, Russia has been developing the Temp 20; this is a more sophisticated anti-helicopter mine with a single Misznay Schardin warhead, giving a lethal range of 200 m. See Mines less widely used for more details of these anti-helicopter mines.

CONCLUSION

Although innovations in mine warfare have come from a variety of sources throughout history, frequently, it has been the engineer on the ground that gained the critical insight required for the next leap forward. Mine and countermine technologies and techniques have evolved over the last 3,000 years and indeed, still continue to do so in the typical measure/countermeasure/counter-countermeasure cycle seen for other weapons.

About the Author


Hero Dog


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Hunting Dog Equipment

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Coon Hunting-Tips To Help You Get Started With This Awesome Sport

Coon hunting is one of the most popular sports in America today, it is quickly becoming more and more popular seemingly everyday. Very simply, hunting for Coons is great for both beginners and avid hunters, as raccoon can be a great way to practice your hunting skills for the larger game.

There are few things as fun as being out on the trail in the middle of the night, with your hunting dog bellowing in the distance and being out in the forest. Here are some great tips to help you to find the best places to go coon hunting, and also the best coon hunting supplies to utilize.

First of all, keep in mind that hunting raccoons is not only great for getting a good meal, but also good for farmers because they don't worry about the raccoons getting into their crops and destroying them. Also, no matter how good a hunter you are, raccoons will offer a great challenge for you, because they are very good swimmers and tree climbers, and can allude you very easily.

Also, since raccoons sleep during the day and are active at night, you have to make sure that you find good trained hunting dogs to help you with your coon trip. Also, hunting wheat lights are extremely important as well. You will need a lot of different supplies and equipment nor to be a successful coon hunter, because of the difficulty that this kind of hunting can offer you.

Very simply, the hunting dog you purchase must be very quick and have excellent sense of smell. When the coons climb the tree, especially the middle of the night, just about the only way you can never find them is by using a hunting dog to track them down. The hunting lights are extremely important, because without a good one you'll never catch the coon because you simply can't see.

Of course, by far the most important aspect of hunting raccoons is to make sure you know the area your targets will be hiding in ahead of time. Very simply, when you don't know this area, it will be extremely hard to find coons, particularly at night. It's hard enough to hunt during the day without understanding the area, but when you try to do it at night, it is virtually a suicide mission.

Therefore, make sure you know all the places where the raccoons go for their feeding, where they live, their favorite trees to climb, etc. Also, if you plan and hunting on private land, make sure that you get permission from the owner of the land.

If you don't, you will be in for a lot of legal trouble.

Of course, keep in mind that raccoons are also great tasting when you do catch them; they are a great delicacy around America. Also, during the late winter, the raccoon spurs the heaviest, making this the ideal time to go to hunting.

These are utilized many times for both for coats and hats, collars, winter gloves, etc. Therefore, when you do your hunting during the winter, you can expect to get the most return on your investment.

The bottom line is, coon hunting is a great sport for the avid outdoorsman, because you can do it outdoors, at night, and in some awesome scenery. If you enjoy being outdoors, this is a perfect four for you.

This kind of hunting can not only offer you the opportunity to profit when you catch a good coon, but can also give you a chance to unwind after a long work week. Hopefully these coon hunting tips will help you to become a successful hunter as quickly as possible.

About the Author

For tips on how to
play hunting games online
, visit thebesthuntingtips.com, and get info
free deer hunting games
and real life hunting tips.

Top 5 Best Seller - Hunting Dog Equipment


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Flyball Boxes

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Jack Russell Training: Teach Your Jack Russell To Play Frisbee or Flyball

As dogs originally bred for hunting, Jack Russells are known for being fearless, active, and intelligent dogs. Since they often have a lot of pent up energy, it is best to have them engage in various activities to avoid potentially aggressive or destructive behavior. Common activities for Jack Russells include playing Frisbee or flyball.

Jack Russell training may pose as a challenge to many since most Jack Russells are blatantly strong-willed. However, with patience, the right attitude, and the right technique, Jack Russell training should not be difficult at all. As with any dog training method, be sure to understand the true meaning of being a pack leader. A typical Jack Russell will instinctively try to manhandle its master, but so long as you establish early on that YOU are the pack leader, your Jack Russell will learn to be happy to obey your commands. Just like any other dog, Jack Russells enjoy being able to please their masters.

When it comes to Jack Russell training involving a Frisbee, first, you must introduce the Frisbee as a toy to your dog. It would help to associate the Frisbee with a treat to get your dog excited about the activity you are about to introduce. Once you get your Jack Russell comfortable with the Frisbee, start playing tug-of-war with your Jack Russell using the Frisbee. This encourages the dog to have the Frisbee in its possession whenever possible. Eventually, whenever you throw that Frisbee, your Jack Russell will learn to be more than eager to retrieve it for you.

The next part of this little Jack Russell training bit is to teach your dog to release that Frisbee after retrieving it. You may have noticed how most dogs often retrieve objects and end up simply running away with it. For this activity, you want your Jack Russell to actually bring that Frisbee back to you. Once it retrieves the Frisbee, take it from its mouth and give it a treat. Do not reward your Jack Russell for simply chasing after the Frisbee; give it a treat only when it brings the Frisbee back to you.

Flyball is a dog sport that involves having your Jack Russell race against other dogs along a course that includes a line of hurdles that leads to a box that releases a ball or Frisbee. Your Jack Russel's goal is to retrieve and bring that ball or Frisbee back to you as fast as possible. The same method of Jack Russell training is used in this activity, except that some trainers opt to do it in a backward sequential manner. Meaning, your concern should be getting your dog to retrieve the ball or Frisbee first then having it return to you while passing through the hurdles. Later on, it will be almost second nature to your Jack Russell to go through all those hurdles in order to get to the ball or Frisbee.

About the Author

Lea Mullins, discusses all about Jack Russell training and how to control their separation anxiety. Find more information about dog training from TrainPetDog.com

Revolution Flyball -- Box Turns


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K9 Dog Equipment

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Solving Your Dog’s Excessive Barking

If you are a dog owner, chances are you might be aware how frustrating it is to control your dog’s behavior. Some dogs get too aggressive to the point that they become disturbing and irritating to your family and your neighborhood, while others bark excessively for some weird reasons. Many dog owners find themselves clueless and unsure as to what must be done to solve this behavior.

Here are a few tips to help you solve your bestfriend’s nuisance barking:

The primary thing you need to check is if you’re giving your k9 all the things and necessities he needs. Barking is a natural behavior among dogs and they usually bark to communicate something with you. If their needs are not being met, the barking might be a cry or signal that he longs for your care and assistance. Always ensure that you give them the right amount of food and water everyday. You also have to clean after your dog.

Dogs could be barking because of irritation. Flea or tick infestations and skin allergies can cause your dog to make excessive noise. Taking your dog to a veterinarian can help you determine whether or not he is healthy and free from any canine diseases.

If your beloved pet barks a great deal, you might observe that they are either bored or energetic. Don’t let your dog be confined inside your house, instead, take him outside where he can play and interact with other dogs as often as you can. A dog that is properly trained to socialize with people and other animals will not bark excessively. Training your dog is a great way to improve his physical and mental stimulation. Dogs naturally enjoy the outdoor and like to experience new things. The barking problem may be solved when the dog is taken on regular walks.

By and large, dogs bark for they beg for a little attention. So don’t be rude. Never yell, hit or scold your dog when they are barking. These kinds of reaction can aggravate your k9’s anxiety. If your dog barks because he is stressed or lonely then your yelling is just going to confuse and hurt him.

Along with these behavior modification methods, you may also try using some gadgets that are designed to address the barking. You can buy bark control collar and other training collar equipment that will quickly train your canine to stop his nuisance barking.

About the Author

The author is a dog owner connected to a company that provides safe, effective and humane training collar, bark collars and bark control collar at affordable prices.

Training k9 dog with muzzle


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Schutzhund Dog Training Equipment

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Are 'pre Trained Protection Dogs' Really a Scam?

Ever since man domesticated the first wolf the canine has been serving man in many different functions. Dogs can be found today working as retrievers for hunters, sled pullers for mushers, and drug sniffers for police men and women. Over the past few decades the world has seen the canine take on a new function, that of personal protection dog.


Today there are dozens of companies world wide that offer what they call protection dogs. The purpose of the dog is to be a companion for home, family, and children while also being capable of protecting said home, family, and children. But is there a conspiracy going on with today's protection dogs? Are they really what they profess to be?


In order to answer that question I need to first give you a brief overview of how a protection dog goes from puppy to trained animal in your home. In Europe there is a long history of sports that use dogs. These sports go by the name of Schutzhund, French Ring, Belgian Ring, KNPV amongst others. All of these sports are different and require different types of dogs. What all of them have in common is that the dogs compete in various phases of training. In all of these sports dogs compete in obedience where they will heel, sit, lie down, stay, come when called and various other exercises both on and off leash. In all of these sports dogs will also compete in various protection exercises. The dogs will bite an arm sleeve or a suit under various scenarios and circumstances.


All over the internet you can find videos of dogs competing in these various sports, looking impressive, and looking like they are capable of protecting both home and family. Is it true? Or is there a scam being purpoted on the unknowing public? The answer is not clear cut.


When you go shopping for a protection dog you will see dogs from various protection dog companies that are apparently capable of just about anything. You will see these dogs barking aggressively at the bad guy and biting fiercely when told. What I want you to do is take a closer look. Notice how the 'bad guy' is acting. Do you see him snarling and aggressively approaching the dog? Probably. Do you see him shouting and waving a whip or stick around? Most likely. Why is he doing this? The reason why the 'bad guy' does this is because that is how dogs are trained for sport. Dogs trained for sport are basically trained to show aggression when confronted with these wild, outlandish actions. Dogs realize that when they see the sleeve or the bite suit that they are about to begin 'playing a game'. Is this protection for you and your family? I don't think so.


When was the last time that a real life bad guy decided to shout angrily and wave a whip before attacking? When was the last time that someone tried to break into your home wearing a sleeve or bite suit? The scenarios shown in these videos are not just silly but irresponsible when the company owners are claiming these to be protection dogs. The reality is that most sport dogs, when confronted with an actual violent situation, will do absolutely nothing about it unless the bad guy happens to be wearing dog training equipment or waving a whip around. The unfortunate reality is that most 'protection dog' companies are merely companies that buy dogs from Europe that have sport training and then sell them to unsuspecting clients for thousands more than they paid. Because those clients saw the dogs biting a sleeve or suit they mistakenly believed that the dog is capable of protecting them. Nothing could be farther from the truth.


So what is the average consumer to do? The answer is that you must do your homework. Sport dogs can make excellent protection dogs, but they require lots of training to do so. Real protection dog trainers use advanced techniques that most trainers aren't familiar with in order to make the dog safe for family but dangerous to intruders. Protection dog trainers should be using things like under cover sleeves, muzzles, and other techniques to make sure that the dog will offer real protection. Under cover sleeves are bite sleeves that are small and can be worn underneath a sweatshirt. In this way the dog doesn't know that there is training equipment and therefore believes he is biting for real. Muzzles are worn so that the dog can be sent to attack while the bad guy is not wearing any bite training equipment. Other training techniques include such things as civil agitation and defense work to make sure that the dog is willing to defend against a threat that is not wearing any bite equipment.


I recommend that when you are looking to purchase a protection dog that you demand certain proofs from your prospective companies. Ask them for video clips that demonstrate dogs being aggressively 'turned on' while the bad guy is not acting like a mad man, screaming and waving a stick or whip. Ask for videos of dogs biting under cover sleeves and performing protection work that isn't far fetched. Ask to see scenarios that are on par with what could actually happen to you in real life, meaning that a video of a dog in a field biting a guy with a stick just doesn't cut it. If it doesn't feel real then ask to see training that could actually benefit you in your everyday life.


Protection dogs cost thousands of dollars. If you are going to make that investment than you need to know that your dog could actually protect you in the event that a dangerous situation ever arose. Your dream dog is out there, just make sure that you do your homework first so as to not be taken in by a scam.

About the Author

Ty Brown is a leading dog training authority with numerous radio and television appearances to his credit. Visit www.dogbehavioronline.com to view free articles and for more puppy resources and check out his protection dogs for sale.

Schutzhund Equipment ~ Schutzhund Leather Dog Collar


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Dog Training Equipment

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DIY Dog Agility equipment?

i want to make my own dog agility training equipment
so i can make it custom and a its a fun weekend fun project :)
were can i find i site were i can make these at home?
dog walk, collapsed tunnel, A-Frame, Tire Jump, AND I NEED A site were i can train my dog to use this equipment

First, the best resource out there for making your own agility equipment is "Do it yourself agility equipment" by Jim Hutchins. I have that book and it's great. Blueprints, several options (like a aluminum vs. plywood vs. composite A-frame). He covers all agility equipment except for a couple of the UKC obstacles.

Second, get some PVC and a PVC cutter. With that you can make all of your jumps, most of a pause table, the base for a teeter, frames for a tire, frames to hold the chute.

Third, in terms of actually how to use the equipment, my first and best advice is to take an agility class. Here's why: without a good instructor you're likely to learn a lot of bad habits. Habits which turn dogs off to particular equipment (like the teeter or A-frame or dog walk or chute or even the tunnel). Besides, learning how to use the equipment is the easy part. And for most dogs, doing the obstacles isn't really that fun--it's the combination of doing a full course and taking your instructions at speed. The real test to agility isn't doing obstacles it's working as a team. And just doing obstacles won't give that for you.

There really aren't any free websites that will teach you how to do agility. Steve Schwarz' website (agilitynerd) is the single best resource out there for learning agility but it assumes at least a basic knowledge. Otherwise, he talks about the merits of a front-cross vs. a rear cross vs. a blind cross or pushing the line as a particular handling manuever and a novice would be "huh?!?" Helix Fairweather has a cyber agility course but you have to pay money to sign up for it. The two best intro agility books I can think of are by Laurie Leach and Margaret Bonham (available through Borders, Am.azon)

Gun Dog Training Equipment


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Gundog Training Equipment

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What new trick can I train my dog?

I have a 3 year old yellow labrador! I love training her and i'm good at it! I trained her myself~

So heres the tricks my dog knows:
sit
lay down
fetch the paper
sit up pretty
circle me
say sorry(puts head on my lap)
army crawl(crawls on her belly)
shake
stay
roll over
come
wave
bang bang(play dead)
heel

then all the house manner stuff like "leave it" and stuff
shes also a trained gundog for my dad. she is really smart i i would like to enter her in agility but i dont have the money to buy equipment. Any fun training ideas?
my dog can fetch and retrieve, thats kinda part of the gundog thing. = )

attack is the last thing to teach her. you can teach her to "salute". its when they bow down on cue. you can even have her salute to any flag you desire! my yorkie, rat terrier, and cane corso can do it! (im teaching my latest dog which is also my icon how to do it). here's how. you can get her favorite snack (i use corn flakes. they're healthy for your dog, sugarless, and dogs love 'em!!) hold the favorite snack against your dogs chest, and slowly pull it down. she will begin to lie down. dont allow her to though! you can stop her form lying down by holding her rump up with your hand. then say the command ("salute") and reward and praise. consistency if the key with this trick. also, if you ever see her stretching like this:
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn150/ladiiedumbo/diamond_26.jpg

you can say the command and reward and praise her. god luck!

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Schutzhund Training Equipment

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Schutzhund Dog Training

Schutzhund is a dog sport that was created in Germany during the early 1900s to test whether German Shepherd Dogs exhibit the traits necessary for police-type work, rather than simply evaluating a dog's appearance. Today, many breeds other than German Shepherds can compete in Schutzhund, but it is a demanding test for any dog and few are able to pass successfully.

The Basics of Schutzhund Dog Training

 

The Schutzhund test has changed over the years. Modern Schutzhund consists of three phases: tracking, obedience, and protection. A dog must pass all three phases in one trial to be awarded a Schutzhund title. Each phase is judged on a 100-point scale. The minimum passing score is 70 for the tracking and obedience phases and 80 for the protection phase. At any time the judge may dismiss a dog for showing poor temperament, including fear or aggression.

The training will test the dog in several different skills to aid them in police work such as tracking and protection.  Schutzhund dog training begins when the puppy is very young.

 

Schutzhund Courses

 

There are many different aspects of Schutzhund training. The course you use will also depend on which videos or obedience program you prescribe to. Most Schutzhund courses will focus on the following, however:

 

Clicker Training – Not many trainers will use a clicker. It‘s useful for training young Shepherds.

Obedience – Obedience is judged on the dog's accuracy and attitude. The dog must show enthusiasm. A dog that is uninterested or cowering scores poorly.

Tracking – The tracking phase tests not only the dogs scenting ability, but also its mental soundness and physical endurance.

Protection – In the protection phase, the judge has an assistant, called the "decoy", who helps him test the dog's courage to protect himself and his handler and his ability to be controlled while doing so.

 

The point of Schutzhund training is equipping dogs with a specific set of skills that will aid them in completing the task at hand with efficiency and haste. Dogs enrolled in official classes may move at a slower pace to give the trainer a better chance to evaluate them.

 

If you're thinking about Schutzhund training for your dog, make sure you research the training courses and the philosophies involved.

This information is provided to you by Harvey Parker. If you need more tips to get rid of problems with your puppy/dog, then visit this link: http://www.puppydogexpert.com/

 

 

About the Author

Harvey Parker

Schutzhund Equipment ~ French Linen Tug


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Dog Protection Training Equipment

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Introduction to Dog Scootering

Dog Scootering is an activity which is rapidly gaining popularity across the UK - dogs love to run and what better way to allow them to; you may have seen somebody in your local neighbourhood whizzing past you on a scooter being pulled by their dog or dogs. It is a great way to exercise and bond with your pet and is suitable for almost any fit and healthy dog.

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Dog Scootering is a sport where one or more dogs pull a human riding an unmotorised two wheeled scooter. The human can help the dog along by scooting and together can cover a much wider area than by walking in the same time frame. This is a great way to exercise for both you and your dog. The dog obviously gets exercise by pulling the scooter and running, but people also get exercise, as they have to assist the dog by pushing the scooter, and at times, getting off and running with the scooter, especially up hills! Most dogs take to scootering immediately and need little or no encouragement to run as fast as they can, whilst going out to new and exciting places. As a scootering team get more experienced and confident, you can visit new trails and travel further, and can lead to a stronger bond between owner and dog.

Almost any type of dogs can pull a scooter, from Huskies, to Great Danes, and Schnauzers to Spaniels. The smaller the dog, the more you will have to help out on hills and rough spots. All dogs, regardless of size, must be slowly worked into fitness, along with their owners. Don't expect to run the Iditarod in your first month!

So how do you start scootering?

All you need to get started is yourself and your dog, a scooter, a harness and a gangline.

There are a variety of different types of scooter on the market currently, ranging from £150 to £400. Scooters are unmotorised and most have mountain bike type tyres, ranging from 16" to 26". The scooters have a large footplate to balance, stand upon and kick off from, and usually have a front and rear brake.

You may find some models only have a rear brake, and other models are now incorporating front shocks to absorb the bumps when riding over rough terrain. Most scooters allow the gangline to be connected around the head stock of the scooter, but there are some varieties of scooter which have introduced a "brushbow" attachment, which cover the front wheel. This protects the dogs from the wheel and also allows the gangline to be connected in a direct line to the rear of the harness.

An alternative sport similar to scootering is bikejoring. This is where a bike is used instead of a scooter, although some people view this as a more dangerous alternative, as it can be more difficult to dismount a bike in an emergency. Others feel more secure on a bike.

Scooters are easily transportable. They can fit inside a car (if you don't mind the mud!), a car boot or can be carried on a bike rack attached to the back or top of a car.

There are two types of harnesses that are generally used for scootering; the X-Back Harness and the Shoulder Harness.

The X-Back Harness is the mainstay product of the majority of professional and recreational mushers. Most commonly seen on pictures of sled dogs around the globe, this harness is the traditional style of capturing a dogs pulling power. It is important the harness fits snugly but not tightly around the neck and extends along the back stopping just short of the tail. As well as sledding and dryland mushing, this harness can be used for skijoring, bikejoring, cani-cross and scootering. The Shoulder Harness; this style of harness connects around the shoulders of the dog with the hitching point just below the shoulder blades. This has the advantage of allowing all the power generated at the shoulders to be harnessed directly, which is particularly useful when the hitching point is not directly in line with the dogs topline, such as with scootering, skijoring and bikejoring. If the connection point is significantly higher than the dogs topline, then the use of an X Back harness can cause the dogs back legs to be lifted away from the ground slightly reducing the power. Some long distance mushers in the Iditarod have also cited shoulder harnesses put less stress on the lower back and hips of the dog. Finally, you will require a gangline which is the line that connects your dog to the scooter.

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The gangline will usually consist of two sections; the first called a tug line and the second a bungee line. Alternatively, you can obtain a single longer line which incorporates a bungee within. It is important to use a bungee within the lines, as it will absorb any sharp impacts from the scooter away from the dog and make the experience far more enjoyable.

There are double tug lines that are available once you progress to running two dogs. Most double tug lines will come with a neckline, which clips to the collar of each dog, to keep them running alongside each other.

There is no need for any special attachments to connect the gangline to the scooter - the lines can wrap around the head stock of the scooter; alternatively, as previously mentioned, some scooters are manufactured with special connections points for dog scootering.

Besides the equipment stated above, there is plenty more items and supplies you may wish to take with you whilst out scootering:

Water and Dog Bowl - dogs will drink lots of water especially after exercise. Always make sure your dog has access to fresh clean drinking water before and after exercising.

Treats - you will want to reward your dog after a great time scootering!

Poo Bags - most places now request that you use poo bags after your dog. This is a good reason to encourage your dog to go to the toilet before starting your scootering session.

Protective Equipment - you may wish to wear a helmet, wrist guards, knee pads and or googles when scootering, depending on the speed of your dog and the type of surface you are scootering on.

Dog Booties - Booties protects dog paws from hot pavement, sharp gravel and stones. There is often an adjustment period for the dog's paws, and they may get sore or cut initially if on a longer run, until they toughen up. The owner should ALWAYS carry booties along for cuts and abrasions, and to prevent infection.

Getting started for the first time

For your first run with your dog, choose a familiar route or trail. A good choice is to take the dog to a fun place he's used to visiting, so he has a destination in mind, like the park. A recognised trail is better than an open field because a dog does not know the direction to take when facing an open field. A narrow trail is better than a wide one. If you can, bring a family member or friend on a bicycle, and ask them to ride in front of you.

The dog's first lesson is that the scooter is FUN because he gets to RUN. Keep the run short for the first few trips. Stop well before the dog is tired. Stop while he still wants to go. The first run might be as short as a few minutes or a few miles. Remember that a dog that is out of shape and/or overweight will tire quickly and even can damage joints or pull muscles.

Most people starting out will have just one dog. As always start off slowly. Before you start off on the scooter, walk the dog a little so he has the opportunity to go to the toilet. This will reduce the possibility of your dog having to stop whilst running in harness. Put the dog into his harness and attach them to the scooter with the gangline. An assistant is useful to hold the scooter (one foot on the scooter pad, both brakes squeezed tight) whilst you hook up your dog.

Once you are rolling, keep your fingers on the brake levers, and use your brakes lightly as needed to keep the gangline tight at all times. Ride to the side, not directly behind your dog and have fun!

Watch your gangline carefully - you do not want to ride over it and get it stuck round your front wheel or the dog's leg. Keeping the lines tight is your responsibility and can be done by using the scooter brakes lightly whenever the dog slows down. Do not let the scooter ride up next to the dog. The dog's job is always to hold the line out tight in front of the scooter. Novice dogs may pull sideways sniffing and lifting their legs. They will suddenly stop to poo as running causes the bowels to move. When first training the dog, steer the scooter to one side of him so that if he stops suddenly, you will miss him if you can't stop in time. Do not ride directly behind him.

If your dog gets confused, you or your helper can run beside him with a leash while the other rides the scooter. Keep encouraging him to pull. Heel trained dogs may be unsure that it's okay to be out front and pulling. Once they catch on, most dogs really love the pulling and running aspects of scootering. Again start off with short distances and build up gradually. Another way to encourage your dog to run is by getting somebody (your assistant!) to cycle in front calling your dog on.

A very important part of the training is command training. Remember, you cannot easily reach your dog without stopping and getting off the scooter and it may be too late to sort the issues, so an obedient dog which listens to your commands is very important. It will also make the experience far more pleasurable if both of you know what you are doing and what is expected.

The basic commands are "Gee" for right turn, "Haw" for left turn, "Straight on" for straight on, "On by" for overtaking or passing a distraction. There are many other commands such as "Hike on" or "Get on" for speeding up, or "Steady" or "Easy" for slowing down. Many people use these commands or variants of these, but the main thing to remember is to be consistent. "Whoa" is essential to get down before hooking him up to the scooter. Having good brakes on the scooter is essential for stopping dogs as most dogs consider the command "whoa" as only a suggestion!

Teach your dog mushing commands even when out walking to get them used to them:

Some basic commands:

Gee = Go Right Haw = Go Left Straight On = Straight On Hike / Pull = Go Forward Whooa = Gentle Stop Trail = Stay on the trail On By = Go past (e.g. past a distraction) Easy = Go Slower

These are just examples. Use whatever commands you feel comfortable with; just keep them consistent.

The younger a dog is in terms of training, the easier it tends to be to train them. However when it comes to strenuous pulling exercises, it is advisable to let them finish growing and for their hips to have fused before undertaking any serious training or exercise. Many dogs start being trained from 6 months to work in harness, but will not pull any significant weight for any distance until they are at least a year old. It is recommended to get your dog checked over by your vet before starting to scooter.

When and where can I do this?

Depending on your dogs overall demeanor and your general control, this can be done on virtually any off road trail that is firm enough to cycle on. Generally pavements and roads are not advisable as the hard surface will put impact pressure on the dogs joints and the risk of incidents with traffic and pedestrians is high.

The best time of year and weather to scooter in will heavily depend on your dogs coat and temperature tolerance, while it is typically a winter activity for densely coated northern breeds, other dogs with thinner coats would be able to run at virtually any time of year as long as you avoid particularly warm days.

Click for Dog Obedience Training to Solve Dog Behavior Problems

 

 

About the Author

More Dog Training Techniques Tips:

Dog Food Secrets is your best guide to a healthy and happy dog which would have an increased life span. The book gives you guide lines to preparing home made recipes for your dog. You will be able to feed your dog with a well balanced and calorie controlled food. The book also tells you about the principles of nutrition and calorie for your dog.

Clicker training - A best selling dog training book, Clickertraining: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Super Trainer can help you teach your dog. Originating from Norway it has been published in Sweden, Denmark and Finland as well. With more than 45,000 hard copies sold it has become the number one clicker training resource available today.

Dove Cresswell's Dog Training program is the fastest, most effective, and most FUN way to train your dog. Her online video training series is the preferred method of dog owners everywhere. The great thing about Dove's series is that it's not bogged down with confusing information or off-topic content. Her videos get right to the point. Why waste your time on anything else?

Schutzhund Equipment ~ Schutzhund & Police Protection Whip


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Training Pads

How do i train my 6 month long haired Dotson pup to use training pads then train him to go outside?

ive tried to take him on walks but seems to either be afraid or lazy he sits infront of my lobby door and refuses to talk need help i love my pup

Leash trian him. It will make walks more enjoyable. Take him outside and keep him on a leash. Don't take him for a walk because with the different sights he will be distracted. If he dosn't go potty within 15 mins pick him up put him in a kennel then try agian in 10 mins. Keep doing this and he should get the hang of it. When he goes potty outside PRAISE him like CRAZY.

Chris Forster training (pads with Kingsak)


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K9 Training Equipment

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Protect Your Pets By Preventing Flea And Tick Infestation

If you have a pet, no doubt you are concerned about its welfare. One major topic that many pet owners and pet lovers are concerned with is controlling the infestation of pests like fleas and ticks. Fleas and ticks can be a bothersome nuisance to both you and your pet dog or pet cat, and in turn this can negatively affect you and your family also.

Fleas

Fleas are an irritant because their bites form itchy and irritating sores on humans. Fleas are blood-sucking insects that bite both humans and animals and. They can jump lengths of over a foot, and have a lifespan as long as several months. If you have children, especially babies, this can be an even bigger concern as the rashes and sores developed from flea bites can potentially be harmful and affect their health adversely.

Ticks

Ticks can be harmful to humans as they can potentially transmit the very serious disease called Lyme disease. Lyme disease is a bacterial infection that may very well prove to be fatal if not treated properly and in time.

Although you may love your pet cats and/or dogs, the welfare of yourself and your family should be of the utmost priority. How can you prevent and remedy the infestation of fleas and ticks on your most loves pets? Well, there are many medications and solutions that are created for pet dogs and cats and designed especially for this purpose.

Flea and Tick Control Medication

There are special pet medications to control the infestation of flea and ticks on your beloved pet. These remedies are often made and formulated for cats and dogs of all sizes.

One such pet medication called Frontline even makes special formulas for cats and dogs of all sizes, and they also formulate their remedies for baby cats and baby dogs. This means that puppies and kittens that are at least 8 weeks, or 2 months old, are able to be given Frontline flea and tick control.

Frontline is not the only company that makes these pet medications. There are several companies that produce these types of pet meds. Another such brand of pest control medication for your pet is K9 Advantix. This specific brand protects against fleas, ticks, and also misquitoes. However, like the name of the medication kind of tells you, these formulas are made for dogs only.

You do not have to seek the advice of a trained professional or get a prescription from a veterinarian in order to obtain most flea and tick control pet meds. However, this is recommended as veterinarians are very well-equipped to answer any questions you might have as to if this is a suitable treatment for your pet, if there are any side effects for both pet and humans.

Whatever method and route of flea and tick control you choose to go, it is always best to be safe than sorry. Although a consultation with a veterinarian is not required, it is often strongly recommended.

About the Author

Frontline and Frontline Plus is a great remedy for getting rid of fleas and ticks that may dwell on your pet cats and dogs. Find great deals on this product at Jays website, Frontline Flea Control.

K9 Training Collar 101, Equip 2 Endure


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Dog Training Equipment

How did you train your dog to go on walks?

I know there are tons of sites and shows like the Dog Whisper. I want to know what worked for YOU, please.

My dog was doing well, but he has now reverted back to his old ways of pulling ahead on the leash and getting distracted by everything including other dogs, people, trees, etc.

I would like to know what equipment (certain leash, harness, etc.) you used that worked well and how you trained the dog to stay at your side. I am the alpha dog at all times, except when we go on walks....then he thinks he is in charge.

I give a gradual steps in my process, but the number one rule is YOU walk THEM, not the other way around. If you are walking, don't stop even if the dog does, keep going and the dog will be pulled back to you. If you have a dog that pulls, stop every five minutes or so, just to let them know, you won't go unless YOU WANT TO.

I start with regular collars, if they are really tenacious about pulling I move to anti-pull harness, I have had to use a choke chain on dogs that pull to tough even on an anti-pull harness. This may seem cruel, but I never yank the chain, the dog does all the resistence themselves and will learn very quickly to stay near you and walk at your pace or the walk gets to be no fun for them.

NEVER LEAVE A CHOKE CHAIN ON A DOG THAT IS UNATTENDED OR NOT ON A WALK WITH YOU!

NEVER USE A CHOKE CHAIN FOR CORRECTIVE PURPOSES!

After the dog has learned proper walking behavior, go down to the harness again. If the dog is still performing correctly, go down to the collar and enjoy your walks.

This has had a 100% success rate with me and my pooches.

Always remember, to be a proper dog owner, sometimes you have to be a jerk......

Removing Dog Training Equipment and Aids - Part 2


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Dog Equipment Training

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Dog Agility Training Basics

 

Before you begin your dog agility training, basic obedience training must come first.Your dog needs to be able to come to you quickly when you call him/her, sit, lay down, hold a stay and keep their cool around other dogs. If you could train your dog in some off leash heel work you will have a big advantage but it is not a must.

Another side note, if you and your dog have played fetch, you will have an easier time with dog agility training. You can start by introducing your dog(s) to smaller versions of the obstacles. Then, you gradually work your way up to larger and larger equipment until they reach their full competition forms. Your dog will need 'spotting' at this stage kind of like you would when working out in a gym. You should always have your dog pre-screened before entering any intensive training. He/she can become badly injured if you don't have their hips, elbows and eyes checked first to make sure everything is OK.

I also suggest that you do not use any restrictive collars or technique that may compromise the dogs use of the equipment properly. Once they have learned the basic obstacle work, they can enter the next level of training. That's when the handler gradually conditions the dog to jump higher and perfects an effective command vocabulary of body signals as well as vocal ones. The agility obstacles that are the hardest and take most work are the jumps. Your dog must undergo about 6+ months of skeletal conditioning at low jumping heights so that he/she can thicken their bones and develop needed strengths for landing jumps in the future.

These are just some of the very basics of dog agility training that I thought I'd share with you in this article. I hope you learned a thing or two!

 

About the Author

I certainly hope that you find this article useful as i expected it to be. Visit Margareta's blog about how to Successfully Train Your Dog To Behave for more information.

Schutzhund world championship WUSV October 2009-German shepherd Dog Training Equipment


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