There's quite a selection of different dog and puppy potty training techniques you can use, but they all focus on the same outcome - which is the goal of preventing accidents in your house. When training a puppy, one technique used in the more effective house training methods is in encouraging your puppy to do his business outside of the house. Sounds obvious I know, but surprisingly few methods actually have the positive focus.
Whichever methods you decide to use, the main requirement from you is to remain patient and focused - house training a puppy or new dog takes time, and cannot be rushed.
People often feel that older dogs cannot be house broken, but his simply isn't true. Any dog at any age can be taught how to use the bathroom outside of the house. It is important that you keep your dog on a set schedule just as you would a baby. If you are trying to train a puppy then you should take the dog outside every couple of hours and definitely the first thing in the morning, after a meal and after playtime. Puppies under the age of three months are more likely to have accidents around the house because at this age the puppy is still unaware of the fact that they have to go the bathroom until they actually go.
Therefore the crate method of house training may be needed for younger dogs. This means that the dog will be confined to the crate during the times that you are unable to watch them closely to ensure that they don't have an accident in the house. Over time, the puppy is taken from the crate and left around the house because it has learned to use the bathroom outside.
However, if you find that once you have taken your dog out of the crate and they are having accidents once again, this means that you need to use the crate method for a longer period of time. The key to the crate method is that the crate should not be used a punishment. You should make the dog aware of that fact and find another of punishing the dog for any inappropriate behavior. The crate is a place to sleep, much like a den and should be treated as such.
If you have adopted an older dog and you discover that this dog has not be properly housetrained you can still use the create method. However, you must keep in mind that this dog may require a larger crate so that they can move around and sleep comfortably. Puppies need only a small space to sleep, whereas older dogs often like to move around. If by some chance your dog does have an accident in the house it is never a good idea to hit the dog on the nose or rub his or her nose in the mess on the floor. This has been found to only confuse or scare the dog. Scaring the dog is not a method that has been found to be effective when attempting to housetrain your dog.
When training your puppy, you should always keep the dog's food the same until you know that you can trust the dog not to do anything in the house. Changing the dog's food suddenly can have a negative effect on the dog's digestive system, sometimes causing frequent bowel movements. If you do this before the dog is fully house broken you are sure to have a few accidents in your house.
About the Author
A loving and well behaved dog will make any owner proud, but unfortunately, great dogs don't usually come out of the box that way - nope, they have owners who no doubt used the top puppy training methods and took the time and energy to understand and train them using the most effective puppy training tips
How to House Train a Puppy : What to Do When you Catch your Puppy Having an Accident
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] will i be able to take my dog to a normal training school?
My dog carn't hear his white and a lot of people say a lot of white dogs carn't hear.His 15 weeks now and we have had him sience he was 8 weeks he carn't hear us when we call but is not to bad with some hand signals and sits when we do them.wi he be abe to go to a norm trainning school for dogs if not where would i take him? thanks
Find a nomal training school and trainer who has experience of training deaf dogs. You can do it as part of a normal class but really need someone who knows what they're doing to give you a hand. Visit the classes without your dog first to ask questions and observe their training methods. Please stick with fair training - lots of treats and praise and no choke chains, as your dog in particular will not understand the choke and certainly can't hear the clinking noise that some idiots claim is why they are effective. Hand signals and body language, coupled with rewards, will really help your pup to learn easily, quickly and with lots of fun involved too! Good luck - sure you'll have lots of fun together training!
Dog Training - Teaching a Pitbull hand signals
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[simpleaffiliate source="chitika" results="0"][/simpleaffiliate] How is the best way to train a deaf puppy?
I have a 4 month old Queensland Heeler who is deaf. At first I thought she just wasn't paying attention, but I can drive in in my diesel pickup and she doesn't hear THAT. I know you can train dogs with hand signals, but she is such a high energy ball of fire that it is just about impossible to get her to pay attention. I need some suggestions to make her pay attention enough so I can even start to train her hand signals. I don't want to use harsh methods and make her cower, but it is imperative that she learn some manners and limits. She is so high energy that she won't even slow down when you pet her! Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking of changing her name to Helen Keller!
The basic method behind training a deaf dog is the same as training a hearing dog (or any animal): Reward behavior you want to see repeated, and prevent rewards for behaviors you don’t want. Dogs do what works — if a certain action results in something they want, they will repeat it.
Of course you need a way of communicating with your deaf dog. It’s easy to use visual signals for deaf dogs. Even hearing dogs rely more on vision and body language (after all, dogs don’t use spoken words when they interact with each other). You can take advantage of your dog’s vision, and also their sense of touch and maybe also their ability to smell.
You will mostly be communicating with your dog through hand signs. Think about what signs you will use before you try to train them. Hand signals must be: clear distinguishable from other signs and gestures you commonly use visible from a distance, and consistent.
Don’t forget facial expressions and body language, too, though. Your dog will be reading you for that!
Your first step will be to establish a sign which means “Yes!” or “That’s correct, you’ve earned a reward!”. An easy one is a quick thumbs-up, or a flash of your entire hand, fingers spread wide apart. You can teach your dog what this means by linking your “Yes!” sign with something your dog likes. Food treats work really well in initial stages of training, but don’t forget fun toys, exciting games, favorite activities, and good petting, rubbing, and scratching. Simply sign “Yes!” and immediately give your dog a treat. Repeat this a few times. Look for your dog’s reaction to the “Yes!” sign — if she pricks up her ears or looks towards the treats, you know she’s catching on. At the same time you can say “Yes!” or “Good dog!” out loud — if you mean it, she’ll learn your facial expression (and it may help you to remember to reward her).
Once you have this sign trained, you can start using it to teach your dog to do what you want. A very important behavior for the deaf dog is “Pay attention” or “watch me”. You’ll need another hand sign for this. I like sweeping an index finger up to the front of your face, forming a sort of “J” in the air as you move it; or tapping your finger next to your eye. You can also teach your dog to look towards you when you stomp your foot — on certain surfaces your dog will be able to feel that through the floor or ground and know to look at you. If you get (or make) a vibrating collar for your dog, you can teach her that a short vibration means “watch me” (and a longer one can mean, “come”).
To train your dog to watch you, all you need to do at first is reward her for doing it. If she’s looking at you, make your “Yes!” sign and reward her. If you need to, you can “lure” her to look at you with a piece of food or a favorite toy — simply wave it in front of her nose and bring it up near your face. Immediately sign “Yes!” and reward her. As she gets comfortable “watching” you, sign “Watch me” as she’s doing it, then sign “Yes!” and reward her. This way she’ll learn what the “Watch me” sign means.
You can play the “Eye contact game” with your dog by putting a desired treat or toy in your hand and moving both hands behind your back. Wait until your dog glances from the treats to your face. Immediately sign “Yes!” and give her the treat. As she catches on to this, you can leave the treat-hand at your side for a few repetitions, then make it even harder by turning away from her so she has to actively seek out your face to make eye contact.
Now your dog knows it’s worth her while to watch you, and knows when she’s going to be rewarded. It’s time to start teaching her some action commands.
The best way to teach any animal to perform an action is to catch them in the act of doing it and reward them. For example, if your dog sits down, you can reward her for sitting. To let her know why she’s suddenly getting a food treat or special attention from you, use your “Yes!” sign at the moment she sits to mark her action. When you’re pretty sure you can predict that your dog is about to sit, you can make a sign for “sit” just before she does it, then follow that up with “Yes!” and a treat.
You can’t always catch your dog doing the action you’re looking for. An alternative is to use “luring”. Luring is especially good for teaching hand signals (in fact hearing dogs have a hard time transferring their cue from the luring hand to the verbal signal). For “sit”, hold a food treat or a favorite toy in front of your dog’s nose. Move it slowly back over her heard, aiming for the space just between her ears. If she’s interested enough in the treat, her nose will follow it. Most dogs will lower their butts to the ground as their nose follows the treat. You can immediately sign “Yes!” and give her the treat. After you practice this a few times, see if your dog will sit without the lure. The first time she does, she has earned a “jackpot” — an extra amount of treats, or at least one really special one.
Turn your lure into a hand signal by not holding a treat but making the same motion for the next repetition. If she sits, sign “Yes!” and give her the treat. After this, if you need to use a treat to lure her, don’t give it to her as a reward. Pet her and “praise” her with your body language for a moment, then immediately try the hand motion without the food in your hand. If she sits without the food lure, she gets “Yes!”/treat. If she’ll only sit if she sees the treat “up front”, she hasn’t done enough to earn it.
You can “capture” with your “Yes!” sign anything that your dog does right. You can formally train some actions such as “lie down” this way, or you can use it to reinforce general good behavior you see and like. Use “Yes!” and a treat to reward your dog for walking without pulling, for greeting without jumping, for choosing a toy instead of the furniture or the cat as a plaything.
One of the most important thing you can teach your dog to do is to come when you call her. You’ll need to practice this “recall” a lot before it becomes a habit for your dog to respond to you. Start while your dog is already looking at you. Let her know that you have something that she’d like, and take a few steps backwards. As she follows you, make a sign for “Come” and then sign “Yes!”. When she gets to you, give her the treat. Traditionally the signal for “Come” is holding your hand straight out to your side, palm facing the dog, then sweep the palm of your hand towards your chest. This is pretty visible from a distance.
Make sure that you use fantastic rewards for “Come”. Think of the alternatives from your dog’s point of view — would she rather try your reward, or would she rather chase squirrels, investigate smells, play with other dogs, etc.? If you are consistently very rewarding when you signal “Come”, your dog will be more willing to “bet” that your reward will out-rank the other possibilities available to her.
I highly recommend having a vibrating collar that operates on a remote that you can carry with you. (The collar should vibrate, not shock). It acts as a vibrating pager, to let the dog know you want her even if she’s not looking at you. Teach her it’s pleasant by “paging” her and giving her a treat. Then “page” her, take a few steps backwards (sign “come” if she already knows it), then sign “Yes!” and reward her as she comes towards you.
You might think that you would need to teach your dog a sign that means “No!”, too. But for most dogs, "no" is just an interrupter, something that causes a dog to stop what he's doing. A very friendly method - one apparantly used by Patricia McConnell, is to teach "no" as the same thing as "come" - stop what you're doing and come to me (for a reward). Now obviously if you called a dog to you and rewarded him each time he engged in some behavior, like chasing the cat, he might think that that chasing the cat is a good thing, because it leads to a recall + reward. So you're back to management.
Remember, it’s only fair to your dog that you try to teach her what is correct to do before you try to scold her for doing something wrong. So if you fear your dog might sometimes chas the cat, be sure to sign “Yes!” and reward her if she ever treats the cat nicely (or ignores him), before you resort to using “No!”. Your dog wants to know when she’s getting it right; don’t make her afraid to guess — and don’t make her associate the cat only with scary aversives! (For more on using "No", see the "Don't Say No?" Training Tip here.)
While there are some signs and actions, like “sit”, “down”, and “come”, that you will probably train formally, your dog can learn others just in day-to-day uses. You can pair a unique sign with almost any activity your dog normally does - going potty, getting down off of furniture, getting to go in the car, going to bed or into a crate, fetching a toy, or going on a walk. You can teach a different sign for different toys or other objects as well.
A couple of general tips: Until you’ve established a really good recall (“come”), don’t let your dog off-leash outside in an unfenced area. If your dog does get loose, make sure that you have your name and phone number on a collar tag. You might even want to state on the tag that she’s deaf. Additionally, it would be very wise to get your dog tattooed with an ID number and/or get your vet to insert a tiny microchip. The chip would carry an ID number that any vet or shelter could read. They call a central phone number and are given your contact name and phone number.
Make sure that you don’t startle your deaf dog by “sneaking up on her”, especially if she’s asleep. To wake a deaf dog, place your hand near her nose so she’ll smell you, or scratch the floor or pillow near her so she’ll feel that. Since she may be startled, you can make waking up or sudden touches more pleasant by immediately offering her a treat. You can actually condition your dog to find being startled to be pleasant — just associate something she likes (such as a food treat) with a startle. Watch strangers (especially children) and don’t let them touch her unless she’s recognized that they’re there.
Consider training your dog to follow a scent track. This could help her find her way home or back to you when she can’t hear you calling.
Mike Wombacher - Dog Training Tips 2 - Sit, Down, Stand Review - Using Hand Signals
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