Canine Training

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Training my dog for Canine Good Citizen?

This year, I am going to be training my dog for CGC. This is the first dog I have ever trained to get a CGC, and would like some information about the CGC.

Did you train your dogs for CGC?
How long did it take?

What are some good resources to use when training for the CGC? (websites, books)
I would really like a book or website that describes exactly what is involved.


I also saw this book the other day about the CGC. Do you think it is any good?
http://search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp?z=y&EAN=9780876054529&itm=1

Thank you!

The CGC tests for ten various behavioral situations and for the average, generally well-behaved dog with some formal training, is a very easy test to pass.
Here are the 10 test descriptions:
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.

Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.

Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.

Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.

Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.

Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.

Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.

Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.

Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.

Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").



If your dog has had no formal training or if you think he could not pass the test as described above, you may want to look in to a simple CGC prep class, usually offered at local kennel or breed clubs. While I do not usually recommend Petsmart, they do usually offer a prep class for a fair fee. It just depends on what kind of a trainer you can find...some are better than others, especially at Petsmart.


Furthermore, I have trained and passed many, many dogs in this test, besides my own, many of them shelter dogs with any number of behavioral issues. My youngest dog ever to pass was 6 months old, and the oldest (a rescued foster dog) passed at age eleven. In my opinion, any dog of any age, and usually any type of background, can go about passing this test with practice.
I suppose the best way to go about training for this is to make sure you cover each test portion, not only so you can pass the test, but also so your dog is well-mannered and obedient.

Good luck and have fun!!


Also, here is an example of a CGC prep class:

http://www.familydogonline.com/Puppy%20Manners%20&%20Home%20Obedience/cgc_practice_&_prep.htm

Bad Ass Police Dog


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Canine Training

Can canine units get addicted tothe drugs they are trained to sniff out?

Anyone ever thought about this? Credible answers and opinions are both welcome.

No. When we train dogs to search for narcotics we start their training out using a powder substance call "Sudo" which is not available to the general public. Sudo come in different odors and is nontoxic to the dog. Each one has an odor that mocks different chemical odors in certain narcotics. If you were to smell these different types of Sudo it would not smell like drugs to you i.e Cocaine, Heroin, Marijuana, Meth. Each one has a different chemical odor that mocks one certain chemical odor in each type of narcotic. A dogs nose doesn't work the same way a human's does. Best example that I can give is when you smell beef stew cooking what do you smell? Beef stew right? A dog can smell all the ingrediance in the same beef stew i.e Beef, Salt,Pepper, Potatoes,Carrots etc. So when a dog that is trained to detect narcotics comes across real drugs he is recognizing that one chemical odor that is an ingrediant in that one type of drug that he is smelling. They never really come in direct contact with the real drugs because direct contact with real drugs could be harmfull or possibly deadly to the dog. As soon as the dog indicates to the handler that their are drugs preasent. Usually by scratching and pawing at the area (Aggressive indication) or by sitting and staring at the odor(Passive indication) which is the same way that explosive detection dogs are trained to indicate. He is then rewarded with his toy which is what he thinks he was looking for in the first place and totally looses interest in the area he was indicating on. The reason he thinks he is looking for his toy (Rolled up cotton towell) when he is finding drugs is because when they are training the towell or "Toy" is coated with these different sudo powders and we simply play fetch and tug-a-war with the scented towel or "Toy" and so the dog associates the scent of the drugs with his toy. The dogs only motivation to locate the odor is the desire to play because he doesn't think he is looking for drugs but instead he thinks he is looking for his toy and when he picks up the odor of the drugs he thinks he has found his toy and all he wants to do is play with the toy. We do use real drugs at times during training exercises to get the dog used to finding actual drugs but they don't get direct contact with the drugs because it's done the same way as if we were on an actual scene doing a drug search. As soon as the dog indicates on the odor he is rewarded with the toy. I hope that answered your question.

Police K9 Training


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